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Maybe, keep things heavily on the business side. Then, treat the 'ice breaker' as a working interview where only you decide how compatible things will be. I think if you need someone to respect your stuff and hold up their end of the bargain, put friendship well down on the list and let it develop slowly out of mutual respect. Chances are, you'd be taking on a 'starving artist' and you might appreciate someone with their head down and nose to the grindstone, instead of the nice fellow with excuse number fifty why they'll be a little late on their share this month. I think you're smart to look at ways to decrease your overhead, and you may as well use resources that you already have. Best of luck with it, Craig

Thanks for the invitation Jim. Take care, Craig

Thanks Ford for your willingness to share your gifts and insights, both here and over on your forum. Great stuff, Craig

Thanks for the explanation Karl. It's an interesting and nice effect that shows on your 203E. Nice control on your grinding. Take care, Craig

I saw a believable comment from an ABS MS who supposedly spent time in Japan that the 'secret' flux ingredient was boric acid at 1 part to 4 or 5 parts borax. At least for the shop that he visited. Just came to mind when I read the comments. Craig

Great hunter Karl. Would you have any comments on what's happening to the 203E to cause the random pattern welded appearance. Nice informative pics. Really interesting 203E, even where it appears thick enough to be less influenced by the 1095. Take care, Craig

Great work Jim. I appreciate whenever you offer to share your work. I hope you don't mind me suggesting that you take up casting again every now and then. Take care, Craig

I'd give all of them a decent amount of time to settle into your conditions. You may be a lot less humid than they're used to. Maybe seal the end grain, particularly the macadamia. If your mac nut block wants to check, don't fight it. If you split it along a check line instead of saw across a check, it'll be a whole lot more stable block. When you finally get in to them, you might think the mango is last on the list for looks. Even curly mango tends to have a large grain pattern to it that doesn't show much uniqueness in a smaller piece. If you haven't seen it before, the macadamia may be a surprise. If you want the grain appearance to match on a handle, try to clean up your blocks as close to quarter sawn as you can. The pattern will be very predictable, and you may see how the look changes as you clean up blocks by slicing off waste. Good for your folks for getting you some odds and ends that just aren't available at most stores. Have fun with them, Craig

If you know the spacing you need, maybe you could dimension a long enough piece of hardwood or plastic that's the right thickness. Then cut it up into spacers that you stack against your router guide. That might move the cuts across your handle material with good accuracy, if you start with accurate spacers and watch for sawdust buildup. That's not really a typical woodworking joint and it may be pure chance that you can find a commercial jig that'll do what you want, particularly with the thickness of typical handle stock. If your buddy wants subtle, maybe scribe the pattern into a solid block then soften it with a good hand rubbed finish. I'd retalk to him about expectations just to feel out how close to the drawings he's expecting the knife to look, particularly the hamon. I appreciate the pictures and you do very nice metal work. Best of luck with that tricky handle, Craig

Thanks for the pictures and your time Jim. They are very much appreciated. Take care, Craig

I've wondered about amalgam dental fillings and the research that's available says they are safe. My dentist says the materials are packaged and handled to minimize any mercury exposure. It seems the risk of mercury exposure is much higher in many foods. Jim, the examples and commentary are fantastic. Probably safest not to risk using free mercury, but hopefully those techniques will not be lost due to modern perceptions. Take care, Craig

8620 may be inexpensive and easy to get steel. It might fit the bill just fine. A while ago I forged some barely knife shaped practice objects with some. They've more than saved themselves from the trash. I've used one to split a pile of walkway bricks and as a wedge to break down larger hardwood stumps to fit the bandsaw. It'll bend, but it isn't what I'd call soft and I haven't chipped or mushroomed it much using a hammer on the back of it. Good luck with the project, Craig

I think Chuck B. passed along sound thoughts. It may not be safe to assume liability protection from a corporation and I wouldn't bankrupt a corporation. It may be best to keep personal and business finances distinctly separate, but to get business financing and manage business debt, it would likely be tied into your personal info. Most corporate setups have to zero out financially at the end of the year, but there'll be a bottom line form that has to be included on personal tax returns, or so I'm told.

There's some pinned info at the top of the metallurgy forum that might help a little. Take care, Craig

I couldn't honestly imagine what you're feeling, but if I were in the position... Maybe, a short term apprentice who fits in just right, could provide companionship, motivation, creativity and financial contribution. There are times when I'm much more productive and less distracted when I'm interacting with others to reach some goal or another. Sounds like you purposely created the isolation, so I wouldn't consider it a burden because of a rough patch. You're lucky your shop isn't on main street, big city somewhere. I'd consider making that hour and a half drive once in a while. Take care, Craig

Hi Jim, That's a real 'ah, ok' picture of the pillar file. I don't want to impose, but I'll ask. Do you have any closeup pictures of your gravers, rifflers or scrapers that you'd like to share. You do amazing work. Take care, Craig

Thanks for the pictures Ray. I like how you managed the elk handle material. Take care, Craig

I agree with Bruce. Please know that your time, pictures and teaching are very much appreciated. Happy New Year, Craig

Hey Karl, The little ones are pretty easy to find. They kind of squish them down and repackage them in tubes. Call it sunscreen, and charge crazy prices for it. Go figure, Craig

If it is the right steel, and broke very easily, it might have been hardened and might want to be drawn back a bunch. If it's a letter opener and you're leaving a forged finish, you might not need to harden it at all. Neat grain, looks like a water quench from way over heated, take care, Craig

Nice knife Karl. I keep looking back at the twist, nice job. I see fingerprints in the pattern. That kingwood looks like a classic rosewood. Winter's going pretty good so far. Haven't had to shovel any snow yet. Thanks for showing it, Craig

I think you might half or quarter it first also. You may have less usable wood than you're hoping for. Like folks mentioned above, you may not want to use the center pith of a log. Good luck with it, Craig

Another possibility would be to use the wall of large bamboo like regular wood for scales or halves of a sheath. Subtle, plain grain, but it could be just the right look for the right project. Probably should dry it well before use. It's light tough stuff that I've also seen used to back up under other materials in multipiece handles. Good luck with it, Craig

Thanks for showing the new knife Stephan. You'll do great next May. Happy Thanksgiving, Craig

Thanks guys for the pictures and tips. Never thought it could be so versatile. If Tom Ferry checks back in, maybe he might comment on heat treat limitations. Interesting stuff, Craig