cdent

Hi folks, I appreciate reading the comments about prepping for the guard fit. I can see the double taper on a hidden tang and having the widest part of the ricasso either at or forward of the shoulder. Is the taper you're talking about from spine to edge of the ricasso. Does it seem easier to fit, or mainly preferance. Thanks, Craig

I hope it's ok to mention here, but Ed Caffrey has mentioned on his forum to put the distal taper transition in the middle of the ricasso. It's really helped me to true up a rough forging, sort of create a reliable baseline. The subtle 'hump' in the ricasso disappears with hand finishing. Always learning, Craig

Hi Baz, others might know better, but I'd consider getting good ceramic or maybe zirconia belts in 36gr and 50 or 60gr. I don't think your grinder can hog material as easily as some of the others you hear about, so you might get more done with the coarse belts. Then maybe jump to 220gr before going to hand finishing. I'd just keep water off the machine and not worry about wet problems. Congrats on the new grinder, Craig

Can you switch gears to a flat grind just to kick start the project. Your 1"x30", files and backed sand paper would probably do the job easily. It might be a good excuse to try making a sen. Maybe knock off the scale with a household acid. Just thinking. Sounds like a fun project, Craig

I've 'heard' comments that you're in the right ball park for Aldo's 1084. If you have the chance, would you mind commenting on your edge geometry if (when) it passes. Thanks, Craig Thanks WES, clear nice picture. Great looking blades and grinding, Craig

If you were influenced for the better by your visit to Dr. Blue's shop, why not follow his lead and advise. Whatever happens, it won't be a bad start, then down the road build the whole forge package to fit your taste/style. Good luck with the build, Craig

I think one of those bolts is leaning a bit. Craig

Hi Bearpaw, I made a pressure cooker homemade pressure pot for a different use, but I just wanted to mention that there are a bunch of online parts places that have replacement gaskets for very reasonable. So, don't pass up a good deal or don't toss out your stabilizer if it springs a leak. Take care, Craig

Thanks for showing the hammer Geoff. When it's humming along, do you ever feel like having a guard in front of the spring. Not picking on your hammer, just imagining leaning forward and concentrating on a project. Nice job, Craig

Hi Doug, I may have it wrong, but I think Ed C. likes to do mutiple normalizing/thermal cycling with the 10XX steels. Sorry if I misunderstood, Craig

Nice package Karl. Pleasing balance and proportions. Take care, Craig

Happy hunting Brian. Just a fun guess, but does this one etch up dark rather than bright. Take care, Craig

Thanks Jesus for sharing the video. Too bad half of it had to be trimmed out. Great stuff. Take care, Craig

Thanks for showing the pen Brent. I wondered how it came out. Great job, Craig

To start off I always like Norton ceramic belts, either 'hoggers' or 'blaze', in 36 and 50 gr. I wanted to add that even with belt grinding, the steel gets very hot, at least for me it does. Maybe when you're rough grinding, keep control of your movement, but try leaning into it a bunch more. I'd then consider following along with some of the good advise about thermal cycling on this forum if you're worried about grain size. Good luck with the grinding, Craig

Thanks for showing the knife, but moreso thank your buddy for his service. Take care, Craig

Hi Jerry, I never tried the Hofi, but angled type peen hammers can be nice. In use, I can hold the tongs or stock closer to my body (around my left hip), and still swing the hammer in what feels like a natural arc for me. I believe there are two distinct angles, so decide if you want to draw the length or width of your project, unless the Hofi has both. I would use a straight peen to draw length, and a cross peen to draw the width of something. The angled ones sort of cross the working path of your two arms at 45* on the anvil face instead of 90*. Extreme caution with the noob comments here. Hope the sea robin is up and running. Take care, Craig

I don't know about power chisel tooling, but I was wondering if anyone had luck with 8620 for rough cold work. It seems forgable in the home shop without unknown degrees of air hardening. I accidentally made myself a cold chisel that cut and shaped many paving bricks, and still holds up well. Take care, Craig

Matt, Can you return the burner to your original settings that worked on the previous installation. Then you might be able to turn down the volume of the LP (some type of shut off valve?) not just the pressure, until the fire gets smaller. Then adjust from there, maybe. If you're looking through two open doors, eyeballing the heat may be different than you're used to. Don't know if your burner position is ideal, but I'd watch if debris doesn't affect the incoming flame. I think the Reil site says that your 14 sq in of door opening is enough, so maybe it's not back pressure. Just some thoughts, good luck, Craig

Way to go Jerry. Congrats, I think it's one of those 'tools' that you're very unlikely to have any regrets. Take care, Craig quick addition, I think it's worth the effort to snug it down tight to a good base

Congrats Ray, Wish I had forced myself to sit in on your demo, but I had to sneak out during the mid day. Sorry it sounded like an overall slow show, but your knives look better up close than in the great pics that you share. Take care, Craig

I wish I could remember who to credit, but if you suspect a very small crack that needs tracking down, try kerosene. Do a quick belt or wire brush clean up of the surface and wet with the kerosene. Wipe dry and you can use an air nozzle across the surface to see the kerosene lifting out of tiny cracks that weren't visible. You can mix in magnification and angled lighting as needed. Good luck with the heat treating, Craig

Hi Brian, Amazing strides in a few short months. Great package. Take care, Craig

Hi Dan, I have ran into the sputtering with the opd tanks. For me, if I have everything (valves) shut off and I turn the tank valve on and hear a little metallic click. Then I know I'll get the sputtering and low flow. I usually turn off the tank valve and bleed any line pressure and try again. I'd like to run off of a big tank, but it's bbq stuff for now. Don't know if it will help, but good luck with your burner, Craig

Hi Craig, Good to hear things are good with you. If something shapes up, I'd like to pop out and say hi. Been curious to see that new platen too. Take care, Craig