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cdent

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Everything posted by cdent

  1. Hi Kyle, I think big brother is a pretty good guy. As a guest in his house, I hope all is good on his end. Sorry to stir any pot. I'll be more considerate in the future. Take care, Craig
  2. Maybe we could elect folks that could fix pump prices at $3.50 a gallon, and while they're at it they could set custom knife prices. I think capitalism is red, white and blue. If it's ok for the small person to establish their market and set their prices, why not big bad business. The prius logic still doesn't quite work with me, but hey, I'll see your Dodge and raise you 60 hp with my Chevy. I really like my pickup, but I admit I don't like filling it up. I'm not real fond of a lot of current politics, but I hope we can slow some of the creative court system activists. Take care, Craig
  3. Thanks for taking the time Geoff. Take care, Craig
  4. I think things are relative. There is very little outrage if a knife maker turns ten dollars worth of steel and wood into a three hundred dollar knife. Of course, it's not that simple. I think the US of A needs to support a good percentage of it's own energy needs so that world market is forced to be competetive. To this point, I'm leary of many biodiesel, hydrogen, fuel cell, etc. options. Very promising, but many folks ingnore the energy that's needed to manufacture or process those systems. It'd also be nice if policy makers would impose the same environmental and safety regs on fossil fuel
  5. I'm pulling up a chair Geoff. Take care, Craig
  6. I bet everyone in neighborhood will know about this thing in short order! Looks great, Craig
  7. I've only done it a few times, but it worked fine to forge fairly close. Then, rotate the tang against a coarse belt. I made up a little wood push block with a small 'v' in it. Goes very quick. Can't remember where I got the original idea from. Good luck, Craig
  8. Hi Scott, I think some of the others gave you good replies. I believe 2" of wool on the inside of your tube would give you a finished chamber of closer to 7", which I think is a good size. I'm plenty happy w/a 4" around chamber. If you add 2" to the back wall except for your pass through hole, I'd guess a 12" length would finish at about 9" long. I think that general size would be plenty big for knife forging. I kind of like a high three o'clock burner mount that's set up to 'swirl' the flame. You may get a good idea of the position by looking at cashenblades.com for a nice illustrat
  9. Hi Tim, Don't give up on the brass rod test completely. Like others have mentioned, it can be a helpful tool to decide if the blade will perform like you want. It's simple and quick, and it could save a lot of time in handle work, fit and finish, etc. Take care, Craig
  10. Thanks to your cousin for serving our great country. Take care, Craig
  11. Lookin great Karl. Take care, Craig
  12. Thanks Geoff, I dug back and saw that he mentioned 300* for the oil and not 350*, but in either case the temp. is in the low kitchen frying territory, so it doesn't seem to be a real risky procedure. I was asking about quench water temp., because my understanding is that warmer slows the speed, but you're right, lots of variation in the reports. Take care, Craig
  13. Thanks to all for the discussion, and thanks Dr. M for the explanations. Happy fathers day, Craig
  14. Hi Geoff, If it's ok, can I ask a couple of questions. How did you arrive at the 160* water temp., and second, have you considered finishing in heated oil? I hope Walter Sorrells might comment as I think he's mentioned transfering the blade to a 350* oil tank and then adjusting the temp. for an initial temper? Sorry to not be much help, but thanks for the interesting topic. Take care, Craig
  15. I was asked about how my Sea Robyn anvil was working out (just fine), and I took a picture of my idea of a hardy hole solution. I thought why not post it, but I held off a bit to make sure it worked ok for my situation (works great). It's out of the way when I'm not using it, and it positions the strike area of a fullering tool that I was given right in the middle of the anvil. Thanks to Craig H. for paving the way to getting these great anvils. Take care, Craig
  16. Welcome back Jim. Hang in there. Craig
  17. Thanks for the hospitality Vince. I'm near Scot M. and he often speaks fondly of you. Sorry to go off topic on a great thread, Craig
  18. I think it's very practical to heat and work smaller sections at a time. My two quick thoughts would be, first a venturi might be simpler and easier for the small chamber, especially for forging not welding. And, a lining with reflective material may be quicker and more efficient. I'd wonder about welding though with the smaller heat area. Take care, Craig
  19. Hi Vince, Thanks for taking the time to give us a little background. I'm a hobbiest on Oahu (small stuff) and really enjoy the craft. I don't mean to pounce on you, but if you ever find yourself back in this neck of the woods, please consider doing a class or little hammer-in. There just doesn't seem to be too many folks who forge out here. Anyway, take care, Craig
  20. My set up will run 10 to 12 hrs. on a 20 lb. bbq tank. It's 1 in. of inswool w/ satanite and itc 100, with an inside size of about 4 in. round by 10 in deep (horizontal style). I some times close off the front a bit with a couple of soft fire bricks and there is a back opening of about 1 x 2". My burner is a 3/4" sidearm venturi and is positioned to swirl the flame. This is for my idea of forging heat not welding. I really don't know how it compares to charcoal. Good luck with it, Craig
  21. I'd like to throw in a congratulations to another member here Brian Thie on getting his JS. I had a chance to peak at some of his knives recently and have to say hard earned and well deserved. Also, congrats to Karl Andersen on his JS. Two regular contributors who are always willing to help out. Take care, Craig
  22. Just a side curiosity comment. I recently saw a "Timascus" ring and bracelet. They were the black colored versions. Anyway, if understood right, the heat coloring process left an 80 Rc surface. Sharp looking, and amazingly scratch resistant. I have no idea what it would take to cut one off. Take care, Craig
  23. Neatly routed plumbing that's hard to swing something hot into. A fast ram speed with a flow control valve to dial it back if needed. A cable linked foot control to be able to move the pedal around to a comfortable position. Good strength and stiffness to easily handle combo dies, stop blocks, and reasonably off center work. Lotsa other good and interesting comments.
  24. I think that style of motor may disappoint you. You might be able to see the difference if you search universal vs induction. If you don't luck on a good deal for an induction type motor, I'd check with a local repair/rewinding shop. They always seem to salvaged motors around. If you try the hand saw idea, see if you can get a free one and I wouldn't invest too much time in it if it's hard to mount a pulley to the saw blade shaft. Take care, Craig
  25. Don's got a link on his home page, left hand column under tool store. I think that's current contact info. You might have also seen the thread about half way down the page on the tool forum. Chuck's base is really nice, but shipping may be a little better if you make one like you're planning with the 4120. It's just a nice post anvil similar to what you're trying to set up. Best of luck, Craig
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