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Everything posted by cdent

  1. I'd consider going for 200lbs. of 8in. if I didn't have any other option. Then build the base once you have the block at your shop and you can measure it. I'd also consider the Sea Robin anvil. Chuck will sell just the anvil block without the base and with shipping may get it to your area for under the $2.50 per pound that you're looking at. Just a thought to get you a well heat treated anvil face, and I'd bet his 90lb 'half block' would work very well if it's on a good base. Best of luck, Craig
  2. I definitely don't know one way or another, but I believe Ed F. said he arrived at his forging/heatreat method based on SEM images and analysis done by his metallurgist buddy Rex Walter. His thermal cycling has many similarities to some of Verhoeven's writings. Just observations, Craig
  3. Thanks Doug. I think the different 10XX steels, and even different batches of the same XX number, may have a lot more alloy component variation than you suspect. I believe that's why many folks try to get the specs on a steel that they'd like to use and not just trust that the name is right. Take care, Craig
  4. Hi Doug, Is the 'watering' that you're refering to the same as a hamon? Just kicking ideas around in my mind. Thanks much, Craig
  5. Hang in there Darren, thoughts and prayers with you. Take care, Craig
  6. Yup, I think the Sea Robin anvil is good stuff. Really amazing rebound. Chuck must do these for his pure satisfaction because a lot goes into them for the amount he charges. It was a good time yesterday Craig. I got mine unloaded all safe and sound. Take care, Craig
  7. Thanks Jim for putting together the info page and the links. Take care, Craig
  8. Thanks Walter, Your pattern is subtle, but very interesting. Good stuff. Take care, Craig
  9. Hi Walter, Would you mind commenting on the steel mix, and how it might look different if you just used one or the other in a high layer count blade? Thanks for taking the time to show your great work. Take care, Craig
  10. I had a chance recently to spend a bit of time with Ed, and his class was well worth the time and effort it took for me to make it happen. Ed bent over backwards to meet my hopes, and has tons more patience than many would. He has a great 'classroom', but made adjustments for tooling that I was more likely to use. From a beginner's point of view, highly recommended. Take care, Craig
  11. I would suspect the belts, but I'd try two things. Try more tension, and second, check with Rob for his spritz the belt cure for wobbly belts. Good luck with it, Craig
  12. Hi Matt, If you're setting it up 'grizzly' style, the top idler wheel might work best as one of Rob's tracking/tensioning wheels because it has a crown on it. You could use a contact wheel for the drive, but you might consider switching to a shaft and pulleys. If you use a belt and pulleys, you could get basic variable speed, but also if you move the motor away from the drive/contact wheel then it won't interfere with your hand or work piece. The bore on those drive wheels may not fit your motor shaft, and the contact wheels as sold have bearings in them and are free wheeling. If you leave the grinder 'laying down', then I'd think you could set up two idler wheels on a platen the same way that the KMG does, just different drive and tracking back by the motor. Best of luck with the build, Craig
  13. Hey Craig, Do it, do it, do it..... Take care, Craig
  14. Hi Marius, Your calculated speed of 4.25mm per second may not be as quick as you're hoping. I think on hydraulic presses, 1" (25.4mm?) per second may be considered on the slow side of the speed range. Maybe you could be quick with your release valve or rig up stops so that the press doesn't open all the way. If it opens just enough to move the work over, it might save a little time/heat. Good luck with the project, Craig
  15. You might try Chris Marks. Unless it changed, his website had may examples of mosaics for sale.
  16. Bruce, I not a good one to comment on these kinds of things, but I'm putting together the odds and ends for a 5" cylinder press. I believe its capabilities will be well within the projects that you listed above. My understanding is that the work has to be hot no matter how much force is applied. To me a 4"x4" by say six or eight inch billet would be way larger than I'm ever likely to try, and very heavy to handle comfortably. Hopefully others who know better can comment, and I'd consider giving Tom McNabb a call to get a feel for what kind of jobs the double takes over for the single. Best of luck, Craig
  17. A single 5 or 6" cylinder seems pretty common. Maybe you could shop visit someone with a single cylinder, and if it does what you want... Lotta steel and misc. supplies for the price difference. Sorry if you've already figured out a need for the bigger press. Take care, Craig
  18. This new batch of 1095 sounds great. 3/8" stock sounds like a handful though. I better get the hammer arm in better shape. I almost jumped at the new Verhoeven book, but the pdf is quite a mountain for me to digest. If the book is an 'improvement' then it'll be a must have reference for me. Take care, Craig
  19. Jeez Ray, great stuff. When your disc comes out, you should include a bit on design and proportions as well as fit and finish. Take care, Craig
  20. Good topic Craig and great toss around of ideas. Sounds like there are a bunch of the new Verhoeven books floating. Any comments on changes/improvements since he released the pdf from Iowa State? Take care, Craig
  21. Take college prep classes, work hard, and make them pay off for you in your last HS semester. In college you will be in competition with the other students and it can be difficult to 'catch up'. When you get to college, you'll run into folks that just never get settled in. Give yourself the best start you can in college so that you can confirm your goals and chip away at them. High school is being just like it's supposed to for you, so enjoy your Christmas break and come back with your batteries recharged. Surround yourself with folks who'll help and push each other and not look for the short term easy way out. And....chances are you'll have a couple friends try to wake you up with a fire extinguisher after you had a night like Randal decribed above. The problem with walking on like nothing ever happened is that your the only one that thinks you got away with it. Best of luck, Craig
  22. Understandable if your bladesmithing can't get your full attention. A lot of doors can open for you. I look forward to seeing your first blade as Dr. Tony C. a few years down the road. Take care, Craig
  23. I think you are going to end up with a lot of burner for that size interior. Take a look at D. Ellis' 3/4" venturi burner. It will easily do the job and with the bucks you save, think about getting one of those 4 1/2" angle grinders. With a few good cut off and grinding discs, you can cut your bar stock and do a lot of rough shaping, knock through scale and save a lot of file time. Consider a cheap vise, don't forget some dust masks, and regular leather work gloves or welding glove may work out ok. If you have welding capability, you can weld scrap rebar handles on to your forging stock to decrease your tong need. Borrow your buddies anvil. Be safe and have fun, Craig
  24. No big deal for me guys, I was just passing along my experience. Nope, I don't want them to hold my hand with these little things. It was probably just me not looking careful enough, and I'll probably get a renewal notice next week. Since I'm a member anyway, I don't want to find out later that I have to reset the clock on my three year wait for a JS try because my membership lapsed in the middle. I believe exactly as Geoff does, it's up to me to positively contribute to the ABS. I don't know if I'll try for my JS stamp right away, but I'm enjoying it too much not to try at some point. Take care, Craig
  25. Hi Stephan, Same boat. This past November should have been the end of my first year. Couldn't find or get any guidance on renewing, so I just mailed my renewal in. Hope it works its way into the right hands. I suppose if the check clears then I assume all is ok. Good luck with yours, Craig
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