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Everything posted by cdent

  1. If you haven't seen it already, zoellerforge.com walks through a basic build. I think it would be easy to follow and adjust for different materials and different tools (eg. welder). You may not need quite so big a forge. The forges Darren E. sells gives a feel for practical sizes that do real well with only one burner, and less overall materials. Also, if you haven't seen it, take a look at Ron Reil's web pages for easy to follow build explanations. Best of luck, Craig
  2. I've never read it myself, but Brownells offers (or did in the past) a free write up on the graying process. It's by one of the top firearms engravers. I don't know if it's what you're looking for, but it may help. Good luck, Craig
  3. Hi Tim, Walter Sorrells commented about 'lightning bolts' showing up on his recent show and tell posting (Mnt. Fuji Japanese style sword). I wouldn't have the slightest idea if there is any relavance, but he may have comments on what conditions create them. Thanks for your pics and write up, Craig
  4. Way to go Karl. Are they from the 5160 that you like? Good luck with the next step in Atlanta. Take care, Craig
  5. It doesn't help with ready made, but the Dr. Batson booklet mentioned above is very helpful with component matching and structural strength. Best of luck, Craig
  6. Hi Craig, Not a hint of sageness(?) here, but I think the 'wipe' off between mild etches makes an appearance difference. I've tried things like fine steel wool and flitz (mild abrasives), based on what many other folks have recommended. Apparently, the dark muddy stuff is oxides(?) that are better off removed to varying degrees to affect the look. So far, I've used windex to stop the etch only because there's usually a spray bottle close by. Of course, I can't say that I comment from my vast experience. Good luck with it, Craig
  7. Yes please Jake. I'd appreciate the step by step. Take care, Craig
  8. I had a chance to see this new disc and for me it's excellent. Walter makes a quick comment about polishing being a little like watching paint dry, but I think he's teaching through the entire disc. As a newbie, there are many obvious 'eye openers', but the real value as I see it is being walked through many subtle details. There are a lot of prep tips even before the 'polishing' starts. Thumbs up for a great reference that's going to keep helping me even if I can progress beyond the basics. Take care, Craig
  9. Hey Craig, Sorry, no helpful contribution, but good luck with it. Maybe, it'll etch bright and weld up as part of a 'fun' billet? Take care, Craig
  10. Congrats on a nice project. I'd like to agree with you that a 3/4" sidearm burner is very simple to build and use. I put a choke plate on my intake, and it can be adjusted to a nice reducing flame at 3 1/2 psi (small horizontal forge). I've gathered up most of the stuff for a verticle forge also, but for now I have more than enough to chip away at that learning curve. Take care, Craig
  11. If it was a usable knife at some point, and your happy with the work that you've done on it, you might try using it as is. Maybe put on a temporary handle and try it out. If it doesn't hold an edge anymore them give the heat treat a try. Good luck, Craig
  12. There's a thread down below about Walter Sorrells hamon video. If you get a chance to see it, he demonstrates his version of heat treating swords with the 'pass through' method. Good luck, Craig
  13. cdent

    anti-scale "clay"

    Thanks to all for the comments. Take care, Craig I'd like to add a quick favorable comment for Tim Conner over at ATP. Couldn't have been simpler or quicker to get a little bit to try out.
  14. Really nice work Brent. Take care, Craig
  15. cdent

    anti-scale "clay"

    Thanks much Don. Quick question, is it a possibility to apply satanite (not mixed) in a pattern that someone liked, and then did the ATP 641 brush on. I suppose anything is possible, I'm wondering if there's a down side to applying the ATP to a nonmetalic surface (satanite). Take care, Craig
  16. cdent

    anti-scale "clay"

    Kind of curious myself on a newbie/learning level. Maybe some hints about ATP 641? Take care, Craig
  17. Way to go Brian. Thanks for sharing the pics. Take care, Craig
  18. I'd just try to weld if that's what you want to do. If your burner is ok, you may need more psi to get the heat up. If you think your in the ball park, but need just a little more heat, you might consider a reflective coating such as itc-100. Someone like Darren Ellis may be able to help you out after Blade (show) with deciding how workable it is. I think Raymond has some good points above. Best of luck, Craig
  19. Hi Craig, Michael Kanter is one of the good guys and I'm glad for him that this project is really taking off. Down the road, would you consider a 'shop visit' to take a look at the tooling arm? Take care, Craig K.
  20. Thanks Dick, I have a simple short taper that I want to do. I was just going to jump in and do it, but your comments really help. Take care, Craig
  21. Super 77 works for me on my disc grinder. Sometimes it peels off ok. Otherwise, I've been using the heat gun. Take care, Craig
  22. Try umbaonline.org in the 'library'. Sounded interesting so I took a look. I'm not looking for discs just for the sake of collecting them, but they're asking a very modest price for quite a line up of subjects. Take care, Craig
  23. Hi Jesse, You might try norsewoodsmith.com, but it applies to western style saws. Still gives good tips. Good luck, Craig
  24. Hi Karl, Thanks for putting them back up. By the time I looked, it was just red x's. I figured it was just something wrong on my end, but I wanted to say I appreciate the info share. Take care, Craig
  25. Hi Giuseppe, I would consider adding a good spring or two to pull the press open quicker. Also, I'd put an adjustable stop under the ram to limit how far the press opens. Both those things might speed the cycle up a little. I was seriously considering what you're trying to do, but I'm switching gears and gathering up the parts for a hydraulic press. Best of luck, Craig
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