Jump to content

cdent

Supporting Member
  • Posts

    216
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by cdent

  1. Hi Richard, I was really tempted to bring back up your previous thread, but would you mind commenting on your remote motor/pump set up. How long are your lines (high pres. and return)? And, are there any pressure drop or other problems to watch for? Sorry for the newbie questions, I always assumed I'd use the shortest practical lines, but it would be nice to package the tank and motor in a cabinet a few feet away. Sorry Bob for drifting your question off topic. Take care, Craig
  2. Hey Bob, Don has a manual by Dr. Batson on how to build a forging press. It's very helpful with matching components, and predicting performance. I'm currently gathering the odds and ends for a press, so I definitely can't say I've 'done it'. Good luck, Craig
  3. Thanks very much Brian. Take care, Craig
  4. Hi DJ, There's a link above to zoeller forge that might help. If you look up side arm burner there are plans for a 1/2" version. It'll really do a nice job on a small forge, and should fit the budget. Only consideration would be a propane set up vs. your natural gas set up. Best of luck, and it sounds like your local troupe does great projects, Craig
  5. Doug, For all these different odds and ends, I'd use as much materials that I had on hand as possible. Your first set up does not need to be top of the line. Just keep an eye out for safety, and as you get more experience, you'll make adjustments and modifications to all your tools and setups. I think working through some of these projects will give you valuable skills for a lifetime. Take care, Craig
  6. Hi Doug, I think most folks will set up a little larger blower than they need and then use a valve (I have a regular plumbing dept. gate valve) to decrease the air flow as needed. Probably better to turn down a little too much air than to wish or need to have more. I think many of the blower set ups are chosen for quiet continuous running. Please be careful, but instead of conecting a fan directly into wall wiring, a cord with plug can usually be hooked up safely. Don't try it if your not comfortable, but not too many of these things will be available plug and play (you can see the white and black wires in Geoff's nice clear pics). Thanks much Geoff for posting the pictures. Good Luck, Craig
  7. Hey Doug, Sorry about that. I'd definitely consider an angled burner mount to set up the swirl that you show in your pic. I have the parts for a verticle forge that I'd like to put together. For mine, I'm going to try 'bubble alumina' from Darren Ellis for the floor, and I'm planning on 'L' or 'Y' supports instead of tables. I've gotten used to welding on handles instead of tongs, so I prefer a work rest thats out away from the forge for stability. Definitely just rookie comments here. Take care, Craig
  8. Hi Doug, My forge is a horizontal set up, but if you're not aware of it, consider checking out Don's forge and burner building article in his homepage under 'craft'. Should answer a lot of the basic questions, then the sky's the limit on extras. Take care and good luck, Craig
  9. Hi Karl, Just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to show your work and teach. I always appreciate your attention to detail and fit and finish. Take care, Craig
  10. Hi Folks, I shouldn't stick my head back in, but I thought I'd make a couple of light hearted comments. Before I joined the ABS, I read a lot of comments about folks building specialty knives just to pass the performance test, and often there are implications that a knife could be so much more if it targeted different performance goals. Initially, it made me doubt the value of the ABS performance requirements, but I now believe it takes skill, knowledge and experience to understand an ABS blade and to make deliberate decisions to target different performance goals. Member or not, it seems to push folks to do the best they can. It also seems like the ABS faces a little of the 90/10 rule. Ten percent of the folks do 90 percent of the work. I just chuckle at things like that, because I've volunteered to help a couple of groups and then had people wait for me while real life gets in the way. Sorry to ramble around. take care, Craig
  11. Hi Dan, I probably signed up as a newbie about the same time you did, and I just got my first copy of the quarterly magazine yesterday. There is a thread on Ed Caffrey's forum over on knifenet that might give you a little more insite on the contact questions. I too had sticker shock and value questions about an ABS membership, but it's the only game of its kind. I don't want to sell knives, but I've set a vague personal goal to get a js certificate one day. I'm ok with them setting their own rules and policies, but I'll bail out if things go too far against my grain. Take care, Craig
  12. Hi Folks, From a rookie point of view, this video is very well done, informative, and really does not leave many questions at all. I'm definitely glad I decided to get this disc. I think a finishing video that starts at final grinding/trueing up lines and continuing to the polish would be a great compliment. Take care, Craig
  13. Hi LR, I hope my quick rookie comments aren't off base, but I wouldn't worry too much about actual demensions, the important thing is how they're put together. Seems to me the parts just need to come together to keep all the wheels aligned. I'd use what I had on hand or could get easy. I really appreciate and learn alot from the different tool building threads, but my digging around has me only saving $250.00 to 300.00 if I bought quality components and used mostly free scrap steel on my own build. Not counting time, which is hard to come by sometimes, I'm thinking that extra money for a real KMG buys a truckload of R&D, precision and tech support. I hope I'm not sounding like an A-1 knucklehead. Take care, Craig
  14. wow jerry h. (chuck b. ?) please be assured your time and knowledge is truely appreciated. thanks again to everyone for working with this topic. take care, craig
  15. thanks very much for all the comments. i'll stick to the water quench, and try some samples. i got the idea from brownells and i've seen reports on getting the mottled colors with some cold blues, but i'm hoping to get that old time look and make expanded use of tools and materials that i already have on hand. take care, craig
  16. hi to all, i'm hoping someone can comment on the quench part of a color case hardening 'recipe' that i'd like to try. this would be for appearance on 1018 mild steel misc. parts. it calls for a mild bubble agitation of a water quench. i assume (not good) they are trying to speed up the quench. how would brine or one of the 'superquench' formulas compare to the agitated water as far as speed? and, is there a chance that those various salts, soaps etc. affect the formation of the colors? i ask because i think i could make the process more predictable/repeatable with the tools and materials that i have. i'll be trying test pieces, but don't have the experience to guess if i'm headed way off base. thanks for your patience from a beginer/hobbiest. i'm a long time lurker who appreciates the info that don (and the hundreds of members) sat right at my fingertips. take care, craig
×
×
  • Create New...