Niko Hynninen

THX Tim. That blade shape will chance quite a lots...but before that I wanto make bubble/triple sure things So.... more testing -N-

More I forge new series of ingots more convinced I get. Blade is raw shape cutting edge 530mm long, 63mm wide and at spine10mm..so heavy piece still. N

Some light to Crucible steel pattern. Here seen is raw ingot structure at first, then pre state where some decarb is seen, and pattern from this after foriging and fast grid whit 120 belt in all pics. Ecth is done whit light nital / iron sulfate that is great for chemistry of this steel. And...for notification. This is just one bar of series of last 10 tests of melts,ingots and forgings, also it proofs that my curent reseby and tech produces this watering every time. ...Need to step up to next level pattern development. -N-

One video for all. Forgin CSteel.wmv Niko

Well Hello! Friend of mine said to me that there is “interesting talk” about me at one forum….I said I don’t care…but looked it up anyways. Interesting and sad to see how one person manage totally get his shit to spiral and crash. I could not care less about one or other saying “you can´t do that, it´s in possible to get this and that done, why don’t you do this and that”….Over years I have heard them all…But have done all that and more, plus shown that all is possible …Some have said even more…so you better get in line! I usually don’t care rat´s ass about harassment…but reading between lines one obviously “knows” what he is talking about or just needs some “mentoring” about crucible steel. This text of one clearly sounds like lack of information about crucible steel and as one has not got anything done related to “ancient steels” shouts out that I´m full of shit! Well…Dude…Why would you just ask about crucible steel melting set up…how it´s done and do it!... Show how it´s done…do you honestly think that I have done all that you say…Me getting some money spend those blades and show them as my own work? Have you ever heard term “occupational pride” "honour"? Do you know what it means? I sure don’t have to testify you nothing…Even its all there…just read it! I sure don’t have to make new or old blade…finish them just that you are question why I`m not making them ready… You need to understand some things about steel first than start flapping your suspenders. Whit out good patter there is no point making any blade…if you want to make best or at least similar blades as ancient times they need to have similar pattern. To fully understand what, how and why this pattern is created one need´s to make lots of testing. When you are in point that you can make multiple ingots and forge them to bars or semi raw blades and they all behave same way under your hammer and produce similar and wanted patter….only then you can say I got it. It´s crystal clear that you have not done anything like this in your life and whit that attitude you never will. ….You just don´t get it! This journey is also about SISU… Word that you need look up first… My tech and my method of making crucible steel might be different than what its bean said over the internet about it. My chemistry is 99,8 % same as some of analysis made from “real” ones…also pattern of steels structure under microscope is 100% same as ancient ones. I don’t do those “tricks” that some folks are doing. As now there is 5 different methods how I can forge ingot to bar. I don’t get nice watering pattern every time I melt ingot as there is all ways that x factor in this…small things makes difference. Good crucible steel whit watering pattern is allways really small spheroids one perlite matrix…that makes nice pattern…clusters, GB Cm and elongated texture gives totally different look and pattern. But let´s play it like you want… If you can produce public apology in text form ( 1000 words) that covers your reasons of this outburst and ad your full name, address….I will look up one bar for you to make your own judgement after that. How´s that… Marius? By the way….I do have pretty good idea how you are and why you are saying these things. and one more thing........ Merry Christmas. Niko

Here is another test to new tamahagane test blade. Lots of activity and stucure after the prosses....like utsuri Steel works well as the yaki-ire. -N-

Test is done...towards to new challenges. -N-

Hi Athan. It all ways quite hard make good judgement from any given photo, but it might be that there is some level of decarb at steel surface. This you need to work by grinding...yep...it sucks if your blade is all ready thin but only way. Also I never keep any Wootz in solution that long. Even weak solution will greate pitting and makes surface more or less " burned" look a like if that long soak is used. First I would recomend you re grind it whit 600, 800, and make light 5-10s ecth whit Nital ( alcohol + Nitric acid) neutralize whit bakingsoda water mix and wipe dry...also you can use alcohol rinsing after neutralizing and wipe it dry.Dont use any pumice or wool, just cotton or soft paper tissue. You should see pattern...if not do new etch 5-10s. If you see spots in steel that holds grey / light grey colours whit out any pattern they usually are decarb. ....more grinding that is then. If you re do the whole HT you need to draw steel soft (softer) before..Steel might be cranky if you re do it from that phace. If you have kiln set it +700C and cool it slow to +600C after this whit kiln...If not you can use gasforge but it needs to be cold../ first heat up... Get it gently to +700 C and re heat you blade on top of gas forge first during forge heat up....then in side...get it even colour ( that is really low red ) dont over heat it...soak 5min kill the gas forge and blug all holes whit wool or some other insulative material...leat it cool down whit gasforge.. Open the surface and re do the HT. One normalization ( non mag) heat and cool down in open air.. Take heat +760 C on the blade as you like ( just the edge or whole blade) and be sure you have +80 C oil ready. Quenc horizontal or vertical...what you like to do..and do the file test to be sure it hard...temper +200 C at least hour. ( Before tempering you can grid window to see is there pattern or not..and to see hows the HT whent.) Martensite turns darker/black) I hope you get at least some tips from this to try out. -N- ( Multiple normalisations have tendesy to make steel harder to get quenched...as grain can be really small) spesially in oil.

Hi. Here is some pics of Tamahagane, low grade and hi grade. Also shown Kawagane-structures after procses and last weld after sunobe draw out ( Kawagane-Shinagne) Weld zone. Carbon has burned about 50% from raw stucture, giving pearlite matrix. This is test blade for the materials and making of the Kobuse stucture. N Raw Tamahagane Raw Shingane Kawagane after process Kawagane, Kawagane/Shingane kobuse-zone Blade Kissaki N

My tech is just about there.....Raw Jambiya dagger by open die forging.

Hi Jan. Im not sure about that method your using. Personally I would not pour water even carefully in my hot reusable furnace...or even single use one. I have seen what happens when water stight away turns to steam....Not pretty....stuff starts to fly and fast. Water whit hot charcoal reacts exsotemic...I use this from my Sage prosses. Also too fast coolign will ruin furnace quite fast...at least hitemp castable ones. Anyway...If it works Ok. Its good to have different methods and stick to one that works. Maby you could trun furnace some how 180 and get that bloom out this way...and then in to water...LOTS of water. Ones I thought this too, but then I made that 3 piece tatara and stop hassling aroung. Looking frwd to see more of your steel, nice work N

Jan At one point my quest in to this subject I found some old paintings and drawings about Tatara operation and how Kera was treated after furnace was taken down. They illustrated idea of group of smelters draging large Kera in to river or stream of water...just made for this. Also I have visited old smelting sites and quite near from those ruins there was slope made of stone and noro...entering to small river. Even large glowing mass of steel can be quench in moving water as it´s really effective. I have used this method successfully from 2002 as I started...time flyes...damn. -N-

More trick´s...more pattern. -N-

New steel, new trick´s..... Niko

Thank´s Jan.