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Niko Hynninen

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Everything posted by Niko Hynninen

  1. THX Tim. That blade shape will chance quite a lots...but before that I wanto make bubble/triple sure things So.... more testing -N-
  2. More I forge new series of ingots more convinced I get. Blade is raw shape cutting edge 530mm long, 63mm wide and at spine10mm..so heavy piece still. N
  3. Some light to Crucible steel pattern. Here seen is raw ingot structure at first, then pre state where some decarb is seen, and pattern from this after foriging and fast grid whit 120 belt in all pics. Ecth is done whit light nital / iron sulfate that is great for chemistry of this steel. And...for notification. This is just one bar of series of last 10 tests of melts,ingots and forgings, also it proofs that my curent reseby and tech produces this watering every time. ...Need to step up to next level pattern development. -N-
  4. Well Hello! Friend of mine said to me that there is “interesting talk” about me at one forum….I said I don’t care…but looked it up anyways. Interesting and sad to see how one person manage totally get his shit to spiral and crash. I could not care less about one or other saying “you can´t do that, it´s in possible to get this and that done, why don’t you do this and that”….Over years I have heard them all…But have done all that and more, plus shown that all is possible …Some have said even more…so you better get in line! I usually don’t care rat´s ass about harassment…but
  5. Here is another test to new tamahagane test blade. Lots of activity and stucure after the prosses....like utsuri Steel works well as the yaki-ire. -N-
  6. Hi Athan. It all ways quite hard make good judgement from any given photo, but it might be that there is some level of decarb at steel surface. This you need to work by grinding...yep...it sucks if your blade is all ready thin but only way. Also I never keep any Wootz in solution that long. Even weak solution will greate pitting and makes surface more or less " burned" look a like if that long soak is used. First I would recomend you re grind it whit 600, 800, and make light 5-10s ecth whit Nital ( alcohol + Nitric acid) neutralize whit bakingsoda water mix and wipe dry...also you c
  7. Hi. Here is some pics of Tamahagane, low grade and hi grade. Also shown Kawagane-structures after procses and last weld after sunobe draw out ( Kawagane-Shinagne) Weld zone. Carbon has burned about 50% from raw stucture, giving pearlite matrix. This is test blade for the materials and making of the Kobuse stucture. N Raw Tamahagane Raw Shingane Kawagane after process Kawagane, Kawagane/Shingane kobuse-zone Blade Kissaki N
  8. My tech is just about there.....Raw Jambiya dagger by open die forging.
  9. Hi Jan. Im not sure about that method your using. Personally I would not pour water even carefully in my hot reusable furnace...or even single use one. I have seen what happens when water stight away turns to steam....Not pretty....stuff starts to fly and fast. Water whit hot charcoal reacts exsotemic...I use this from my Sage prosses. Also too fast coolign will ruin furnace quite fast...at least hitemp castable ones. Anyway...If it works Ok. Its good to have different methods and stick to one that works. Maby you could trun furnace some how 180 and get that bloom out this way.
  10. Jan At one point my quest in to this subject I found some old paintings and drawings about Tatara operation and how Kera was treated after furnace was taken down. They illustrated idea of group of smelters draging large Kera in to river or stream of water...just made for this. Also I have visited old smelting sites and quite near from those ruins there was slope made of stone and noro...entering to small river. Even large glowing mass of steel can be quench in moving water as it´s really effective. I have used this method successfully from 2002 as I started...time flyes...damn. -
  11. Hi Jan. I reread this and yes...it sure was forging of #1 I mix these my self...lets hope that it forges out ok and you get at least 60% of it.
  12. Latest pattern, just after forging...some dacarb and loos Cm there is still but it will chance a bit later..edge up and its still 3 mm and spine down about 5mm, 50mm max and quite near the tip 40. Pattern is bit fuzzy, but ok ´ is
  13. Jan. What happed to the pattern? Im confused?! in pic 55 it looks really good and Cm is small even I dont have a clue what is the skale of it. So did you forge it after that and failure happend...over heat? Crack? Lets hope that you can replicate it whit rest of the ingot. Niko
  14. Tim. It might have bean about 1,7% as calculated...or more But plenty for sure
  15. Hi Tim. Thanks´s Im glad that you like it and find it interesting, it holds quite large amount of info. I used single ingot as only this way it would have bean realistic and true. This matrix skope pic project I started years ago and this was done at 2012-2013 It tooked lots of time at forging and at skope too...this was quite slow prosses. Heating, forging,cooling, grinding, polishing, etching...repeatedly. Some images I have hunted for years but in this project I did got all steps just spot one. Niko
  16. I found this note in my black note book... "That cracking in Cu alloyed steels happens when steel oxidies during heating at higher temps and Cu that is in solution rises up sense its fully liquid and stays under the oxide layer…Molten/ liquid copper goes trough grain boundaries and during reduction there is tension to the surface and force will tear it….This dosent happen if heat is under the melting point of Cu.." Quite harsh trans to eng but this might be the case...where ever the origin of Cu might be..
  17. I would forge it to waffels, restack and weld, fold10 times to see is it totally ruined. If you find that its not tuyere, ore or other that was in smelting prosses....look in to your charcoal forge..if you used that..Clean it! Even small amount of Al, Brass, or Copper in CC forge will ruin welding prosses.. If its not ok for blade it would do nice looking tsuba blank, sens patina might be somethign really cool.
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