Bob Geldart
-
Posts
152 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Bob Geldart
-
-
Photo thread on British Blades...
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?123699-Pictures-from-Owen-s-Hammer-In-2011
-
-
I looked at your photo/X-ray without first reading the accompanying text; I thought it was a photo of a new 'mascus pattern that you had developed!! Anyway, good luck with the surgery.
-
I use a die filing machine
-
~Lots of info on slate in this thread:-
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?73488
Here are some slate hones in an abandoned slate mine near my home:-
-
I've never trusted tempering colours so I use Tempilstik temperature indicating crayons.
Before:
After:
-
I converted a horizontal mill
-
I'm sporting full winter plumage at the moment:
-
I've got a small surface grinder but much more useful is my modified horizontal mill.
-
Nice work, I've been trying to get a similar result by using a pantograph engraver to mill through the outer layer of a billet of plain 1080 laminated with pattern welded scales. The pattern does distort when the engraved billet is hammered flat but I will be able to reduce distortion by using a rolling mill. I can compensate for the linear distortion of the rolling mill by adjusting the pantograph.
-
You need to finish this blade so that you can compare it to your later efforts. It will serve as a useful marker in your quest to perfect this pattern. I like it so much that I may fire up the forge this weekend and try some jellyroll patterns that have been floating about in my mind.
-
Nice tongs. Be aware of monoxide poisoning symptoms, those coke forges produce a lot of monoxide which can really spoil your day.
-
And then I decided that quenching in warm water would give a better result...
-
Grind off the scale...
...add some layout fluid (enjoy the smell)...
...and after a quick burst on the platten...
...and repeat...
...then do t'other side...
...a quick etch...
...the flip side...
Then after a sucessful HT in oil...
...obverse side...
Success.
-
After coffee and cake I cut the billet in half then cut one of the halfs into 3 pieces. These 3 pieces were welded back together but welded side to side, not face to face.
The other half plus this 'side by side' billet were used to laminate a piece of CS80; you know the score - heat, flux, big hammer etc.
The billet was ready for shaping into a billhook...
A bit more curving...
... and some more...
...and after a normalising cycle or two, get the whole thing hot...
...and straighten on the bench using a big lump of steel.
-
I've lost my old hook so I decided to knock a new one out, I like hooks for splitting firewood.
First I added a new 3HP motor to an old, small 100mm x 915mm (4" x 36") linisher.
The platten was worn...
...so under the grinder it went...
...and soon all was well.
Some EN9 and a few bits of bandsaw steel (spark tests indicate that it is 15N20) were located...
...and cleaned up on the grider.
Before and after.
Tack the layers together...
... slap it in the oven...
...add a bit of blacksmith's nose candy (i.e. borax)
...get it hot again in the oven and then thwack it with the Blacker...
...it's me hammering away...
...knobbly bits were ground off..
...billet was cleaned up and the two halves were used to sandwich 2 bits of bandsaw blade with a piece of 20C in the middle.
Back in the heat etc...
... welded up then drawn out so that the edge became the flat face.
Then it was time for a brew.
-
Which common wood finishing products are safe for use on wooden knife handles. I'd be particularly interested in anything suitable for sealing hickory and ash. I know they are not common woods for knife handles but I have a ton (literally) of ash and hickory hammer shafts that I need to find a use for.
-
Surely Howard... "It depends..."
Maybe.
-
-
Did you fold it before the last image? Looks like its been folded a few times....
No folding, I just forged the billet under the powerhammer.
-
It often ignites, if it does, try not to kick the bucket over.
-
One of the 'benefits' of having your own drill press/lathe/mill etc is the endless supply of swarf in all shapes and sizes. I had a few pounds of curly steel on the shop floor and wanted to find a use for it. I have used it for reinforcing concrete but as I didn't have any building projects underway I needed to find a new way of disposing of it.
Here's some swarf:
As it's mainly mild steel I needed to add some carbon, hopefully this is carbon in my chimney:
Add a slack handful of carbon to a scoop of swarf:
Fill a sterile heat resistant container with the mixture and then compact with my patent compacting device:
Seal the container:
And apply heat:
Remove from heat and hit with a hammer:
Apply more heat then hit with a powerhammer:
Repeat previous step:
Remove outer container and shape billet with hammer:
Shape further under the powerhammer, grind it flat and hey presto, your swarf is a block of steel again!
But is it mild steel, carbon steel or cast iron?
I quenched the billet in water, placed it in a vice and hit it with a hammer and it snapped cleanly. So a bean tin full mild steel swarf + a slack handfull of black stuff out of the flue + heat + pressure = carbon steel.
-
-
New mini coke forge 20" square.
Heating a 12lb sledge
Accordian folding tutorial by Mick Maxen
in Nominations
Posted
I'd like to nominate this tutorial by Mick.
http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=11516&st=0&p=103436&fromsearch=1entry103436