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Bob Geldart

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Everything posted by Bob Geldart

  1. If you've got a 400v 3 phase supply at 60hz I think the only problem will be that the motor will run 20% faster than it should but check with an electrical engineer.
  2. There is a tutorial on britishblades.com explaining how to make an electric HT oven http://www.britishblades.com/home/articles...&showarticle=31
  3. I remember the experiments we did at school lighting the gas from a bunsen burner after it had been passed through fine mesh.
  4. Why are most propane burners cylindrical? Has anybody tried to use a rectangular/fantail burner?
  5. Cut it in half, forge one with a hammer and t'other with the press. Then you'll be able to tell us the best method. Just be sure to give the billets a good soak in the furnace before trying to work them.
  6. What is the best type of tip to use for a venturi burner, the longer MIG (GMAW) tips or the shorter TIG (GTAW) tips? What size should I use for a 3/4" burner, 40 thou??
  7. I wonder what this one is saying!
  8. You shouldn't be using powertools after heavy drinking!
  9. It's not easy to find rawhide mallets that small but it can be done, here's the manufacturer's website: http://www.thorhammer.com/rawhideham.htm I use size 2,3 and 4 copper/rawhide mallets: http://www.thorhammer.com/coprawham.htm
  10. What size is your mill, Ric? What size is the motor, diameter of the rolls and what speed do they rotate at? cheers Bob
  11. I found an old forge in a slate quarry: Nice compressor!!
  12. The only LG I can see on his website is a 25 lb not a 250 lb!
  13. I find it strange that powerhammer sizes are measured by the weight of the tup when the velocity is more important (Kinetic energy = half mass x velocity squared). Perhaps this is a hangover from the days of the drop hammer.
  14. Depends what you are doing with it!
  15. Anybody built an air hammer? If so, can you please explain the pneumatics to me. I've got the ABANA booklet and read all the web resources but I'm still none the wiser!
  16. In a word, no. If you weld a new face onto the anvil, the weld will only attach the plate around the periphery. There will be a small gap between the plate and the anvil (except at the welded edges) and this gap will result in the anvil having little or no rebound. Below is a well used anvil that I now use quite often. It is swaybacked, chipped and has a rough surface but this would only be a problem if I did my finishing on it. I have a small, flat anvil I use for fine/finishing work.
  17. The top of the anvil still looks rusty, have you used it yet? The rust will disspear when you use the anvil, no need to use any abrasives on it.
  18. 1080 with a touch of vanadium and tungsten. Is there a prize for the best guess?
  19. I've been fortunate enough to work with some old school blacksmiths including the Shetland based toolmaker Bruce Wilcock. The consensus of opinion amongst these guys is that flux causes more problems than it solves. They suggest that using the correct steel, properly prepared, in the correct atmosphere is all that is needed for good welds. I know that some exotic steels require fluxing but for 'normal' carbon steels do you find flux a help or hinderance?
  20. I think you'd be better off with a surface grinder.
  21. You could try using a two tank system connected via a changeover switch. Available at all good camping stores.
  22. Use a larger tank or find a safe way to heat it. Try standing the tank in a bath of warm water. Place some beers in the water. When the tank next freezes you'll have some cold beers with which to drown your sorrows!
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