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jake cleland

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jake cleland last won the day on August 25

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About jake cleland

  • Birthday 04/30/1979

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    Isle of Skye

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  1. 1/4" is pretty standard starting stock thickness for a traditional habaki...
  2. Just finishing these up for a customer. Big one has a 12" blade in 1095 with bog oak and boxwood. Wee one is about 4". Now I need to get back to figuring out the basket hilt. Anyway, let me know what you think...
  3. So I'm finally going to get around to building a sword heat treating forge, and I'd like to be able to get an accurate read on the temperature. I have 2x 12" K-type probes and a digital thermometer/display unit that I bought years ago. My question is how to mount them? Do I need to stick some stainless tube into the forge to shield them, or can I just drill a hole in the shell and poke them through the wool? Do I need to do anything to protect the plastic connectors at the ends of the probes? Ideally I'd like to be able to take measurements at either end of the forge and one in the centre - ca
  4. Today I sharpened the blade and added a copper suspension ring and belt loop to the sheath. The Spanish notch is just a decorative design element. The filework also extends right round the tang, which is tapered in two planes.
  5. Just finishing this up for a friend who's a classical violin player. 1095, buffalo horn spacers attached with blind pins, bog oak and poplar burl: let me know what you think...
  6. Straighten in a vice at normalising heat, just above critical, and repeat until it stops twisting - heating to welding heat and hammering is just compounding the stresses that are causing this...
  7. No acetylene, sadly, but my dad has a good half inch propane torch which might put out enough heat for small joints. Figure I'll get the main joint's done first and see how that goes...
  8. I'll try and document as I go. May have a trial run at the basket next week. My forge doesn't get hot enough to weld mild to mild consistently, so my plan at the moment is to braze all the parts together. I figure I can dovetail all the main joints off the main guard and cold peen them tight, and wire up the butt joints at the top. If I get everything tight, hopefully when I come to braze on the saltires and other decoration the braze shouldn't want to run out of the other joints too much, and I figure I can flux everything and have some filler rod handy... It just seems too complicated to tr
  9. Made a card mockup for an uncoming commission...
  10. Nope, not like that. Think I've figured it out. 1/4" PCL to female 1/4" BSP from the compressor and 1/8th" hose tail to male 1/4" BSP from the hose. I'm sure there should be a way to do it with a single fitting... Lindsay palm control.
  11. A few years back I bought an airgraver with the insurance payout after a car crash, but shortly afterwards I moved house and didn't have a suitable place to set it up, so it sat in the box ever since. Long story short I'm now setting up a clean shop where I can use it, but I have no idea what kind of adaptor i need to attach it to a uk compressor. I know what I'm looking for - a 1/4" bsp nipple which fits the compressor, with either a 1/8th barb to fit directly into the hose, or a female connector that will fit the 1/8th nts male threaded part that is attached to the hose, but I have no idea w
  12. Working on a dirk scabbard. The main body is built up from 2mm mill board, with wet moulded leather sheaths glued to the front to take the by-knife and fork. Still a few bit's and pieces to do before it's ready for covering, but I like to get these sheaths done fairly early in the process and give the glue as much time as possible to cure while I finish the rest of the knife/knives...
  13. A few years ago Alan gave me a pipe hawk handle blank which I never got around to making a head for. It's my dad's birthday on Thursday and he smokes a pipe, and has a few pipe hawks he's made from hatchets,, so I decided to make a head to fit the handle and give them to him to finish up. I planned to make it from mild steel, but I couldn't find a suitable piece, so I used wrought. Had a bunch of problems because a.) I was running out of gas, b.) I don't have a drift, and c.) my forge doesn't really get hot enough to weld wrought to itself unless everything is tight and ground clean, which isn
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