Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

jake cleland

Supporting Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


jake cleland last won the day on March 21 2017

jake cleland had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

108 Excellent

About jake cleland

  • Birthday 04/30/1979

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Isle of Skye

Recent Profile Visitors

1,911 profile views
  1. Are these metals compatable for forge welding together

    I'd say your issue could be surface de-carb; if you're taking the blade to a mirror finish before h-t, it seems likely that you aren't removing enough surface after hardening to get down to clean hardened steel...
  2. Hunting Knife Critique

    Yup - tape the crap out of the blade, put a movie on, and contour and smooth the handle with a coarse half round file, go over it with a fine file, and then sand it at 80, 120, 240, 320, oil or wax and you're done. I actually quite like the look of the small finger groove, provided it doesn't interfere with the feel of the knife...
  3. Do I, or don't I?

    give it a quick etch to see what's there. If you like it, keep it, if not just sand back to 400...
  4. Does Magical Realism Count?

    I have no horse in this race but I like the idea. Also, pretty sure 'segueta' just means saw, with modifiers implied by context.
  5. KITH WIP- kusarigama

    As an aside, given that you guys incarcerate a higher proportion of your people than any other country on earth, given that a quarter of all prisoners, globally, reside in American jails (many of which operate as slave plantations for profit), and given that your citizens now lose more property to asset forfeiture than to crime, you might want to be a bit more circumspect when throwing the word 'Draconian' towards another nation's judicial system...
  6. Stone cutting

    Jade is pretty soft, and can be worked with hand tools. I would uses a diamond/carbide/ceramic coated wire hacksaw blade (tile saw) for basic shaping, refined with rasps and files and paper
  7. inlaid kitchen knife

    just finishing this up for my sister's Christmas - a wee (6 inch-ish) kitchen knife of the same design that I have used for the past 5 years. differentially hardened CS70, recessed bubinga scales with copper, aluminium and acrylic inlays and copper pins..
  8. Boot Dagger

    Made this for a friend's Christmas/birthday. 1095, bubinga, camel bone and bog oak.
  9. Sgian Dubh

    The barman in my local is a very good friend of mine (shocker, I know), and this year his girlfriend, who I'm also very close with, commissioned a sgian dubh for his Christmas. I said I'd charge her the cost of a basic knife, and do the fancy work for free, as payment for all the times I've sent him staggering back to her at 4am when he was meant to close the bar at 1... This is what I came up with - 1095, copper and ebony: let me know what you think...
  10. Is this knife too much for a beginner?

    for a knife like that, I'd allow three days. Day 1, orientation and basics, forge, rough grind and heat treat. Day 2, finish grind, rough fit handle, polish and etch blade. Day 3 shape and finish handle, any decorative work, and sheath. When I do a 1 day introduction, I have them make a simple brute de forge full tang. I use 1/8th" x 1" x 6" 1095, which prevents them biting off more than they can chew (and avoids the beginners pry bar effect), while still allowing a lot of leeway in terms of design. Generally I'll grind and heat treat, while explaining the processes, while having them observe closely, and maybe doing some of the rough grinding - generally beginners wear themselves out during the forging, and get frustrated with coming to grips with grinding. While the blade is tempering. we'll have a beer and I'll explain all the additional steps they'd need to do to make a 'proper' knife, and I'll send them home with their knife and some leather to wrap the handle. This approach lets them find out whether they've got the bug, if they have any natural aptitude etc, and ensures that at the end of the day they have something tangible to take home with them...
  11. Kwaiken for a raffle

    small kwaiken for the local primary school raffle. Clay hardened 1095, with copper stud inlay and forged copper menuki, leather handle wrap and thong with elm bead. Tooled leather blade cover.
  12. OT damascus shotgun barrels

    thanks Alan
  13. OT damascus shotgun barrels

    I have a couple of damascus shotgun barrels I want to make into san mai blades. Am I right in thinking that they are silver brazed together, and I can just sweat them apart in a gas forge, split the individual barrels with a slitting disc on an angle grinder, and forge them flat?
  14. O1/K460

    O1 hardens fine by watching for recalescence and then quenching - you won't get the absolute optimum performance the steel is capable of, and I wouldn't do it on anything over about 9" of blade, but for small stuff it makes a good blade, and you wouldn't know the difference without extreme testing. That said, it's not a forgiving steel to forge, being both red hard and hot short - it'll turn to cottage cheese if you get it too hot, and crack if you hit it too cold. It also tends to air harden in thin sections, and can be a bear to normalise. I tend to do a couple of hot normalisations to get everything evenly distributed, and the do a backyard spherodising anneal to get the grain size down, cycling just around critical a dozen times or so, and finally a couple of sub critical anneals to get it soft enough to work (heat to just below critical and air cool to black).
  15. Nordic Hunting Knife

    just finished up this Nordic hunting knife for delivery today. Blade of clay hardened 1095, Handle carved from boxwood in a ringerike style stag motif of my own design, finished with shellac and linseed oil. Copper pin and ferrule cold forged, brazed on the edge side, and sculpted with files. Leather sheath. let me know what you think...