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jake cleland

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jake cleland last won the day on April 9

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About jake cleland

  • Birthday 04/30/1979

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    http://www.knifemaker.co.uk
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    Isle of Skye

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  1. jake cleland

    I need some advice on small castings

    It's hard to give advice without pics/dimensions etc, but my inclination would be to leave a thin web between the tentacles which you can remove with a jewellers saw after casting - i think it would give a better chance of getting the metal to flow out to the delicate parts. Depending on your design, I probably wouldn't worry about shrinkage - anneal after casting, bend the tentacles out slightly to get it seated, and adjust with a rawhide or softwood mallet.
  2. jake cleland

    I'm a potato when it comes to making knives...

    A knife is literally the simplest thing to forge that isn't a nail - it's a point and two tapers. An axe is infinitely more complex. And if you think that heat treating is 'Easy Easy Easy', the chances are that you haven't really understood it...
  3. jake cleland

    What did you do in your shop today?

    this is what I was working on when I got bit...
  4. jake cleland

    What did you do in your shop today?

    I ground half my thumbnail off right through the nail bed. I mean, I did some other stuff before that too, but that's the one that sticks in my mind...
  5. jake cleland

    2205 Duplex stainless steel

    It doesn't seem to be hardenable, so no...
  6. jake cleland

    Grinder Belts

    I generally us a 36 or 40 grit for rough grinding and breaking down the edge after hardening, a 100 grit for cleaning up the lower grit, blending, getting down to sharpening thickness, and finally a 320 to produce a finish from which you can start hand sanding, and take the edge down to zero...
  7. jake cleland

    Thistle Sgian Dubh

    Just sent this one away. 1095 blade, copper blade collar, blued steel fittings with copper accents. Carved bog oak handle. Bog oak and leather sheath: let me know what you think...
  8. jake cleland

    Good inexpensive wood rasp set?

    Never found a need for a half round rasp. I use a japanese saw rasp, and clean up with a half round file.
  9. jake cleland

    Maybe a Hunter? I dunno you guys tell me ~WIP~

    And I'm afraid you've vastly over estimated the capabilities of a buffing machine - their purpose is to remove the very fine scratches left by hand sanding, for which there is no substitute.
  10. jake cleland

    Maybe a Hunter? I dunno you guys tell me ~WIP~

    No need for a vise - hold the taped blade in your left hand and a rasp/file in your right hand, and apply one to the other. Shape the profile first, then chamfer the corners at 45*, then blend into smooth curves. Repeat with sandpaper wrapped round a piece of wood.
  11. jake cleland

    First commission!

    I always ask what the customer's budget is. Generally they give a range, $300 - $500 say, and if it's reasonable, I'll produce a couple of designs within that range. If their budget is on the low side, I'll give them a design for a simpler version of what they want, but I'll also produce a design of a fully realised version - often they'll find the extra cost, or ask to pay in instalments...
  12. jake cleland

    Hamon and Yakiba tsuchi

    Basically, clay is the absolute least important variable in hamon creation, to the degree that most of the classic hamon structures can be produced without clay. Steel composition, hada style, thermal history, quench temperature, quenchant and quenchant temperature are all more important. About the best that can be said about clay layout is that the overall shape of the hamon (ie how far from the edge it forms at any given point) can be influenced by laying down a bead of clay where you want the habuchi to form, that gunome are usually produced by single ashi laid perpendicular to the edge, and that choji are often produced by laying down ashi as an 'X' shape or an inverted 'Y' shape...
  13. jake cleland

    Okay yes this is going to be a DUMB question

    They're not ruined, and I'm not trying to discourage you. Five minutes with a file or a grinder and they'll be fine.
  14. jake cleland

    Okay yes this is going to be a DUMB question

    You started out with two 90 degree corners to take down. Now you have one 90 degree corner and two 135 degree corners to take down. I'm afraid you are no closer to a radius than you were when you started...
  15. jake cleland

    Okay yes this is going to be a DUMB question

    Those are shears, not fullering dies. You want a half-round radius, not a point. Should be a couple of minutes with a file if you have a vise (which you need).
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