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jake cleland

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jake cleland last won the day on December 9 2018

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About jake cleland

  • Birthday 04/30/1979

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    Isle of Skye

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  1. jake cleland

    High carbon round stock?

    drill rod
  2. jake cleland

    Last Minute Kitchen Knife

    thanks - the design process for this was about 5 mins with a sharpie and the offcut it was made from, plus a lot of time holding it up to the light at the grinder after h-t... it spent about 20 mins as a kirtsuke during the initial grind...
  3. jake cleland

    Heat Treatment and Spring Stiffness

    hardening should only effect the elastic modulus in as much as effects the physical volume of the material, so like 2% additional stiffness at full martensitic transformation, and <1% at spring temper (full disclosure, I'm pretty drunk, and the volumetrics may have no effect at all, but I don't see how that would work atm...). So yeah, if it works soft, it should work hard...
  4. jake cleland

    Veggie Killer

    Brilliant. That's just a great design, well executed. Now make 5 more - the shaping and finishing will get easier and better each time, you'll have $300 or so worth of stock, and you'll acquire the skills to make your next batch worth twice that. Great job...
  5. jake cleland

    Last Minute Kitchen Knife

    Rush order from a friend as a Christmas present. 7 1/2" blade: let me know what you think...
  6. jake cleland

    Broken back seax... Tear it apart fellas!

    Your carving layout looks good, but it's worth going over your design and making sure it follows the alternating over/under knotwork pattern as much as possible. This isn't an exact science with beast knots where the pattern can split and has multiple terminals, but it goes a long way to making the carving look cohesive and finished...
  7. jake cleland

    Antler Stabilization due to Death by Acura

    to get something useable sooner, I would try and find a suitable handle piece some distance from the crown/skull area and saw out a slightly oversized length, drill out most of the pith, and let that piece dry for a month or so. You could also bury it in loose dirt and let the bugs, worms and microbes do their thing, but that probably won't work in a Virginia winter...
  8. jake cleland

    Silver and bog oak seax

    Definitely seconded...
  9. jake cleland

    Wyrm Hunter's Knife

    I forged this blade 3 or 4 years ago from offcuts from a sword, to demonstrate multibar welding for a friend. I fitted an antler and macassar ebony handle, but it had some weld flaws, so I never bothered finishing it. Every time that friend sees it in my workshop, he pesters me to finish it so he can buy it, then last week I was talking to his girlfriend in the pub and she asked if I had anything that would make a suitable christmas present, and I remembered this one, so I polished the blade, did some fairly rustic carving on the handle, glued it up and had my sister make up a sheath for it. Blade is wrough, suminagashi and silver steel... tell me what you think...
  10. jake cleland

    Blade flexibility Q?

    flexibility is determined by geometry, and primarily by the thickness at the spine. For a flexible fillet knife, you want it about 1.5mm - 2mm thick. Tempering temperature determines what the steel does at a given degree of flex - too hard and it breaks, too soft and it takes a set, but ideally it should spring back from anything up to a 90 degree flex...
  11. jake cleland

    Simple Sgian Dubh

    Been making a few simple things in the run up to Christmas. This is the first one finished. 1095 blade, 3 1/2" long, 1/8th thick. Carved bog oak handle with camel bone bolster, copper pin and 22 caliber lanyard hole liner: let me know what you think...
  12. jake cleland

    Historical Sgian Dubh edge geometry

    originally a sgian dubh was pretty much any small utility knife with a blade between 2 and 4 inches. In the 19th century they became more standardised as a part of the Victorian idea of Highland dress. I generally make them 1/8th thick, with a full convex grind to a zero edge (or with a tiny micro bevel) and a correspondingly convex distal taper, as this is close to the 19th/early 20th century examples I have examined. Unless you're copying a specific example, just do what feels right to you. The only real 'rules' are that it must be slim enough to be worn flat against the leg in the kilt hose (socks), and you should keep the blade to around 3 1/2"...
  13. jake cleland

    Filleting knife

    not a reverse fuller, just a short, wide tapering fuller which keeps the volume of steel fairly consistent in any given cross section along the length of the blade - remember that fullers don't increase stiffness, they just reduce stiffness less than removing the same amount of material across the whole surface. This allows consistent flex despite the distal and profile tapers...
  14. jake cleland

    Filleting knife

    This was commissioned by a friend, and delivered yesterday. It's stock removal, ground from 3.2mm CS70. It was flat ground before h-t, then I thinned it down to 1.5mm at the forte, tapering to 0.9mm an inch behind the tip. I then hollow ground a fuller in the wider portion of the plade to produce an even flex across the length of the blade, while still leaving the tang stiff. Blade is finished with a long etch in fecl, followed by baking at tempering temp (440f) to set the oxides. Scales are bubinga with copper pins... tell me what you think...
  15. jake cleland

    Help with pin holes

    you want a proper 3x normalisation at descending temps, followed by a sub-critical anneal, aka super temper. Heat to just below critical and let it air cool. A wood ash/vermiculite anneal will likely do more harm than good by setting up lamellar carbides...