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jake cleland

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jake cleland last won the day on March 22

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About jake cleland

  • Birthday 04/30/1979

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  1. I think it's a term I picked up years ago from one of the old 'Knives 19xx' annuals - it just denotes a fairly decorative display knife that doesn't really fit any practical or historical typology...
  2. ok, that fullering trick is genius...
  3. Finishing this up. Water quenched 1095 blade, copper guard plate, antler bolster with carved birds head cartouches , carved box burl handle, leather sheath: let me know what you think...
  4. pretty sure that will just be blind pins and epoxy. As it is recessed it never encounters any kind of mechanical load. I once had a customer turn up with some other pieces in his collection. One was a very fancy looking modern scandi with the multi piece handle. When he took it out of the sheath the mammoth pommel fell of - it had just been epoxied directly to a silver spacer. I drilled and blind pinned it and epoxied it back in place for him while he waited...
  5. The leather is stained and then incised to expose the natural colour of the hide underneath, I think...
  6. Your grain size looks pretty good - you could stand to go a little finer, but it shouldn't cause any problems with toughness as is - an it obviously hardened fine, so that leaves tempering as the only salient variable. I temper O1 pretty hot - 450f -480f usually, and that still leaves it too hard to file. Indeed, I've tempered O1 into the silver/blue range for throwing knives, and it's still pretty hard. I'd turn your oven up as high as it will go and temper again before any further testing - your testing so far shows that what you have is too brittle, whatever the brass rod test says...
  7. A potential alternative to the ricasso/plunge lines problem is to use a habaki instead:
  8. It's worth noting that the difficulty of forging a blade increases pretty much linearly with length, while the difficulty of heat treating increases geometrically..
  9. Why? if you do it perfectly, you will have a blade that is mechanically and aesthetically indistinguishable from a 1095 monosteel blade, and if you don't, you'll have a blade that looks like a 1095 monosteel blade with hidden flaws, which you may or may not be able to detect...
  10. My inclination would be to just forge letter openers out of mild steel. If you start with close sized stock, say 1/8" x 1/2" x 6", with the tips cut at 45* and the corners taken off the other end, I think you could come up with a nice design that could be forged in 4 or 5 heats, cooled in the slack bucket and sold immediately...
  11. Parks 50 is overkill for this, and may be counter productive - the idea is to get the blade past the pearlite nose and to Ms as fast as possible, and then slow everything downas much as possible before you get to Mf, so I just go from water into cold veg oil. Quenching into the oil vertically is no problem, and makes no discernible difference. Sori is difficult to predict - in general water to oil will produce positive sori, but maybe only half as much as a straight water quench. That said, all sori depends on a bunch of variables - geometry, quenchant, clay layout, quench temp, quenchant temp, etc. Even in water, it is possible to produce mu-sori and uchi-sori. To produce maximum sori in water-to-oil, you want to hold in the water until the down curve has finished and the blade is starting to curve up, then move it to the slower quench as fast as possible...
  12. I've been thinking of it as a wolf, but it's hard to say for sure with this style of knot, so maybe it's better to just use the generic term 'beast'... Anyway, that's the carving pretty much done and the fittings etched:
  13. Any deep hardening steel will harden up to 1" thickness with no problem, so it's really not an issue in the sections we deal with. The problem we generally encounter with deep hardening steels is preventing through-hardening, which can only be done by either edge quenching or selective heating. Soak time isn't really an issue in terms of depth of hardening with most steels either - that's more a matter of carbide formation and distribution (though this is obviously still important).
  14. Been working on the carving for this on for the past couple of days, and got the first side pretty much done:
  15. maybe something more like this:
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