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jake cleland

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jake cleland last won the day on June 30

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About jake cleland

  • Birthday 04/30/1979

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    Isle of Skye

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  1. started on some steel handled folder prototypes. Figured out that if I don't cut the relief for the stop pin, the handles work as both a holder and a stop while grinding the blades, which makes everything much easier... it's a nice change of pace...
  2. Thanks guys. It's now on its way to its new home, but I took one more shot of the knife that shows the overall shape a bit clearer:
  3. This is what I've been working on for pretty much the last 3 months. It's probably the most difficult piece I've ever made, but I think I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out - it's not perfect, but honestly I think it might be my best work to date. It is based of a ballock dagger in the Smithsonian, though I took some liberties with the design. The blade is about 10 1/2" of 1095, clay hardened . It has quite a complex geometry, with the raised back edge and hollow ground 'flat', and has been given multiple etching cycles in FeCl for a deep French Grey look. The guard is forged and carved from 200 year old wrought iron, deeply etched and oil blued for a glossy black finish, and is framed by sculpted copper spacers (fitting those was no picnic...). The handle is made in three parts from a single red deer stag's antler, carved and pierced to show the twist forged tang within, and finished with shellac. The pommel is again wrought iron with copper accents, and the pommel nut is carbon steel sculpted into a dogwood flower and heat blued. The scabbard is built up from layers of magnolia veneer, lined with felt and covered in waxed lamb skin, with black deerskin trim and a cold forged copper chape and suspension ring for the belt loop, which holds a carved bone wrench for the pommel nut. The scabbard houses a by-knife and spike, both clay hardened, with oil blued mild steel guards and copper spacers, with carved bone handles. Anyway, pics: And here's the original: there's also dozens of in progress pics on my facebook -https://www.facebook.com/jake.cleland.14 - , as I was documenting it for the customer, anyway, let me know what you think...
  4. I have made liner locks with unhardened stainless blade steel for the liners, and have also used work hardened brass and nickel silver. As I see it, there is no real problem using unhardened material, provided that you over bend the lock a fair bit, and design it so the lock cannot be counter bent in use, which may be an issue with a frame lock. The only potential problem I see is that the bearing surface of the lock will tend to wear faster in a softer material, but so long as the angle of the heel of the blade exceeds the arc of the lock, this should never become a problem (I also leave the heel of the blade unhardened or temper it right back so I can do fine adjustment with a file after hardening...).
  5. after 2 1/2 years I'm back working on this one today...
  6. yeah, I've never seen a piece like it. It was just an off-cut - I don't remember where it came from, and it didn't look like much on the surface, but as soon as I cut into it i knew i had something special... It's much easier than the engraving you do, because you have far more scope to clean up mistakes...
  7. Just finished this up. Made it at the start of the year but never got around to polishing the blade, and today a visitor saw it and wanted to buy it, so I said I'd get it finished for tomorrow. 3" blade with a wrought spine and silver steel edge, etched first in ferric then in coffee. Antler bolster with copper trim. Carved Yew Burr handle. let me know what you think...
  8. There really isn't much difference - they're both wide, flat tangs that taper in two planes, but I suppose it's more Anglo Saxon , in that it's centred on the blade and tapers to a narrower end...
  9. Thanks guys. Finally finished this today...
  10. some back of an envelope calculations suggest that the maximum width you could get from 5/8ths forged dow to 1/4" flat would be 1.46", so 1 1/4" ain't bad...
  11. Finishing this up for a friend. She wanted a seax with some Japanese flavour, and this is what I came up with. 7 1/2" blade, 1" wide and 1/4" thick at the break, 13" overall. Sculpted copper blade collar, buffalo horn fuchi and kashira with copper accents. Carved walnut handle in a take down construction secured by a copper pin. The blade needs a light buffing to brighten it, and I need to finish the sheath tomorrow, so I'll try and get some better pics then... let me know what you think...
  12. Spent a humbling few days this week trying to forge a double bit throwing axe. It's built up of multiple pieces of angle iron and leaf spring which I riveted together cold before forge welding it all together, with the idea that the rivets would prevent the welds from shearing as I forged down the edges. Unfortunately I don't have any tongs which would grip it in front of the eye, so the eye deformed with every hit, the welds sheared anyway, , and every time I welded it back up, the corners of the eye got stretched and thinned and the rivet holes stretched and deformed and tore, and the eye would collapse in on itself and need to be opened up again and the whole sh*tshow would start over again on the next heat, The upshot being that the blades are way too narrow and thick, it's ugly as sin, there are some dodgy looking welds and tears around the eye, and the eye itself is basically a disaster. I'll maybe be able to work the eye cold into some kind of better shape, and if the welds hold up to that, they should be strong enough, but this was not an unqualified success... Ps. I tried to post this earlier in hot work, but it doesn't seem to have shown up, so apologies if this posts twice...
  13. why do you want a stainless core when the iron cladding will be the opposite of stainless?
  14. jake cleland


    Looks like a cheap Chinese knock off to my eye - the seppa dai and nakago ana are misshapen and the inner surfaces appear unfinished. That said, if it is decent material - ie. not pot metal (should be easy to judge by the weight) - It would be easy to make something quite pleasing from it, with a bit of file work and texturing...
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