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jake cleland

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jake cleland last won the day on June 7

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About jake cleland

  • Birthday 04/30/1979

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    Isle of Skye

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  1. If you've filled the handle so the tang is a decent indexable fit, just epoxy is fine. Traditionally they often just had whittle tangs 1.5" long, secured with cutlers resin. The other traditional solution is to pin through the handle front to back, either through the top mount, or just below it. Personally I often use a pin through the centre of the handle, or somewhere it will fit into the carving.
  2. he's on faceook: Theodore Banning
  3. I normally treat them as consumables, but the problem is that the mounting for the grinder on the lathe bed is bolted into the handle holes, so if it dies I'll probably need to find exactly the same model, and hope they haven't changed the housing. I've got multiple fullers to do on a 34" blade, and I really don't want it to die halfway through...
  4. Some years back my dad built a fuller grinding set up, which uses a Draper angle grinder mounted on an old lathe bed (the design required the handle mountings to be in line and parallel to the cutting action). I can't find anything on line about the duty cycle for that machine corded angle grinders in general. Any idea how long it would be safe to run it for continuously without burning out, how long to cool down etc?
  5. Made this as part of a makers challenge on facebook. Got a little carried away. 1075, maple, steel and copper: Not quite finished in this pic, but you get the idea. build album is here let me know what you think...
  6. Depends on the type of knife and lock, but generally down a bit and back a bit. I mark a circle on the pivot area, divide it into cardinal quadrants, and make the hole in the corner of the lower back quadrant. Do this on heavy card stock, and cut out the blade shape (but leave plenty of excess at the back to figure out the lock) and use a split pin to attach it to another piece of card on which you design the handle...
  7. Made another one of these after someone saw a pic of the last one on here. 1080, copper and leather: let me know what you think...
  8. This one was ordered by a friend's mother as a 40th birthday present for him. He's an ex recce sniper and a wilderness guide, so I inlayed some spent .308 brass in the handle (I wanted to use .337, but I don't shoot long guns, and could only buy them by the 100, which would have cost about as much as the knife. But .308 is the classic British Military sniper round, and Highland stalking round, so it's all good...) and used .22 and .22 magnum for the lanyard hole liner. 1095 blade, clay hardened with fileworked tang. Red deer antler scales, with copper pins. The lanyard is made of a fairly stil
  9. It's going to get mounted on a 34" double fullered double edged broadsword blade, based on a blade in the Cameronian's Museum, owned by one of my ancestors. I have the blade profiled, but haven't started on the fullers, or built the forge to harden it yet.
  10. mix the epoxy on a smooth flat piece of card like a scrap of cereal box so it forms a kind of puddle in the centre of the card. Then just press the tang hole in the handle firmly down into the epoxy at the edge of the puddle, draw it clear of the puddle still in contact with the card, and lift. Repeat until epoxy comes out of the bleed hole (which can be tiny). This method will completely fill the handle with no air pockets.
  11. Did the final bit of hot work (brazing the 'S' bars and rams horns) to the basket I've been working on on and off for months... now for a daunting amount of grinding and filing and sculpting to get it into final shape before making the blade to go with it...
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