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jake cleland

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jake cleland last won the day on November 28 2020

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About jake cleland

  • Birthday 04/30/1979

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  1. Or you can just use a sharpie. Draw freehand straight onto the steel, or cut out your design and draw round it...
  2. Spent a couple of days making this for a friends kid. It's bubinga, about 3/4" thick, 26" blade including the integral habaki, 36" o/a. Steel tsuba, leather seppas, copper fuchi and kashira, with a couple of simple steel menuki. The fittings slide on from the end of the handle, so I bulked up the handle profile with laminated card before adding the wrap. The wrap is cotton ito, and it was a bit of a nightmare wrapping on a full length sword as opposed to just the tsuka, and I struggled to get it as tight as I would like. With that and wrapping onto bare wood instead of rayskin, which gives the
  3. I ditched my flat platen years ago for just this reason. I do all my grinding on a 10" contact wheel. I find it's faster, more intuitive, and allows you to do things like complex distal tapers far more easily.
  4. I would experiment with etching the blades - after you take them to a crisp 600 grit finish, etch in ferric for 20 minutes or so, and then rub out the oxides with 1200 grit or finer on a soft backing (wash the blades first with a fairly aggressive cleaner to remove the loose oxides or the paper will load instantly). The etching will erase the harsh light scatter from the freshly sanded surface, and the fine sanding will soften the lines slightly while simultaneously highlighting the clean geometry. I think this will give some softness and character while still looking clean and new. For the h
  5. On some 3 jaw chucks you can remove and invert the chuck teeth to grip larger stock...
  6. Some epoxies can be coloured somewhat with a fine permanent marker or spirit based leather dye and a fine brush.
  7. I really like the blade design for a general purpose camp knife. For a dedicated cooking knife, perhaps not so much. To me, a kitchen knife needs an edge profile with a fairly gentle even curve from heel to tip, and enough depth at the heel for knuckle clearance. How those two things are connected, ie the line of the spine, is a matter of personal taste. But any knife will cut up food for a meal, and a camp knife has to do other tasks which a kitchen knife is not suited for, so I'd say your blade is fine. The handle however... knives are tools, and good tool handles are comfortable and versati
  8. Looks like you're off to a good start. It's worth noting that the hamachi and mune-machi are not usually offset on Japanese blades, and fitting the habaki will be easier if they are in line. You should also bear in mind that if you're fitting a wooden tsuka, and wrapping in both same and ito-maki, it takes up quite a lot of space, and you'll probably have to drop the top line of the nakago to fit it all within the profile of your design - you can always just use same panels, but you lose a lot of strength and will probably still need some extra wall thickness at the top of the tsuka to compens
  9. 1/4" is no problem with short pieces where you can set the weld in 1 or 2 heats. It's not really a surface area problem so much as thinner pieces are harder to keep properly aligned. These days I try and set the welds by squeezing with tongs in the forge, which seems to help with slippage and having the unwelded parts open up on you...
  10. The back panel of the sheath has a pivot pin and locating stud:
  11. Parrots a weird creatures, and very hard to get right. Raptors are easy. the hook knife was a challenge - you need to grind them and then forge to shape. I hollow ground the inside, but it still ended up slightly convex after forging on a bick. to do it again I'd probably forge it like a yakut knife with a deep hollow on the inside, and scroll it freehand. I ended up using a drum sander on a foredom to grind the inside and finish the bevels...
  12. Just got these glued up as a Christmas present for a friend. Cs70, stained elm handles and copper ferrules: they'll get wooden scabbards, and I'll probably carve a hawks head on the hook knife scabbard, or else it's gonna look like one of those parrot head umbrella handles...
  13. I would glue the spacer materials together and do a 'gallery' type fit - scribe, file as close as you can, and then chamfer all the edges.
  14. Pretty much, but the CS series tends to be a bit higher in manganese, 0.6-0.7%.
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