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jake cleland

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jake cleland last won the day on March 21

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About jake cleland

  • Birthday 04/30/1979

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    http://www.knifemaker.co.uk
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  1. Slowly coming together. I got the blade ground - it's very thin now, maybe a little too thin for an iron cored blade, as it takes a set pretty easily, but the wide fuller and narrow edge bars left no other option - and the handle components roughed out. I sculpted the guard with files, and that will get a pretty minimal amount of clean up before getting heavily fire etched and oil blued. I will then selectively polish and heat blue some of the sculptural elements. Made a mortised handle shaft from sycamore, which will get some minimal carving and maybe copper inlay, and fitted the ferrule. Made some brass washers, which need coining and polishing. Forged and rough ground the pommel, which will get the same treatment as the guard, and drilled and tapped it and threaded the tang... Charles, the Talisker distillery is about 50 yards from the best pub in the world, where my friends play traditional music sessions on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays (we also have champagne Tuesdays, Old Man Sundays, and 'Hey, it's a Bit Quieter' Saturdays, and the owner is a smith...) I'm there every Thursday for sure - give me a shout when you're up.
  2. personally I love the interplay of the guard/choil/ricasso/plunges - I think the argument that it serves no purpose is a bit weird, tbh, as really it's having a cutting edge or solid hunk of ricasso there that would be redundant, so having that area removed fulfils the requirements of minimalism and practicality. That said, the two things that I would change would be to have the tine of the guard not extend past the line of the edge, which would improve both the functionality and aesthetics, and the main problem I have is with the line of the spine of the handle - the peaks and hollows seem too busy to my eye, with the upsweep at the butt being particularly jarring. I think the butt should be at the same level as the tip in most cases, and certainly should not be above the blade/handle junction without a very good reason...
  3. the core is antique wrought Iron from the Isle of Rhum, probably from the 1840s, forged down from about 3/4" square, and the edges are Silver steel, which is basically the same as W1 drill rod, forged from 3/8ths round. The wrought sticks like glue to pretty much anything, but it was my first time trying that style of tip, and it took a lot of heats before I was sure everything was closed and stuck - there's still a tiny void between the tip and the core - by which time I was nearly out of gas, and the rest of the edge welds had to be set very quickly, which led to some slight mistakes, but nothing irreparable
  4. After being reminded of the Rankin and Bass Hobbit version of sting by Robert Carters superb wooden model in his 'Maegnas' post, I knew I had to make my own interpretation. I drew up a design and spent a good few hours forging the blade. I went with silver steel edges around a wrought iron core. I also forged a guard from wrought iron, and today I got the blade hardened, so I figure I may as well give a sneak peek... the main image I'm working off: my design: core and edges ready for assembly : And welded: test etch: Blade and guard after the quench and first temper: let me know what you think so far...
  5. There's this depiction of a Client King on the St. Andrews sarcophagus - it's hard to say for sure, but he seems to have a large broken back sheath suspended vertically, edge forward, on his right hand side:
  6. C.Craft, the OP is in Oz. O1 should be simple enough to find in any online hardware supply house, it's just not usually called O1 - what you;re looking for is 'Precision Ground Flat Stock'. Drill rod will be W1 or silver steel.
  7. It's not knife steel in any sense, as it does not have enough carbon to harden, so it's exactly as good as mild steel and most stainless. It might have some benefits as cladding in a san mai construction, as it forms a thick, stable oxide layer which would probably lend itself to rust blueing, but those techniques are a long way down the road for you. Get some knife steel, with at least 0.5% carbon.
  8. I wouldn't use that kind of carving on a blade that was going to be swung - machete, large camp knife, axe etc - as any surface irregularity will cause 'hot spots' in that style of use over extended periods, but for a shorter blade, that style of carving is pleasantly tactile, so I say go for it. For handle material, that style can be made to work on anything, but if it's your first time, I'd suggest something dense and short grained. Ebony and boxwood are the go-to's for a reason. Walnut and maple are also good choices - a bit softer, which makes them easier to carve, but more difficult to get a crisp, sculptural finish on. Antler or buffalo horn too... Just stay away from burls unless you like frustration.
  9. A set of throwing knives for a friend. Still need sheathed and waxed, but pretty much there. Each is 9" o/a,3/16ths" O1, hardened and spring tempered (drawn back tosilvery blue in the forge, and then given multiple cycles at 450f during straightening...) balanced at the choil. Tooled leather scales and copper rivets: let me know what you think...
  10. didn't have time to get a good shot of the pattern on the finished piece, so here's how it looked before assembly:
  11. Just finished this on up. 3 1/2", 3 bar blade - spine of opposing twisted low contrast PW, silver steel edge. Handle of Red Deer antler, deer bone, and bog oak with copper accents. Sheath is leather and goatskin over copper, with copper fittings and a buffalo horn throat. The main handle motif is a simple knot in sunken relief on the antler and high relief on the bog oak. The bolster is carved with a loop and ring knot. The bone spacer is incised with runes of the recipients names, and the butt plate and rune plate on the box are engraved with a bind rune of their names. The shipping box is just a cheap commercial jub that I've dressed up a bit with a felt lining and copper rune plate. Anyway, pics: let me know what you think...
  12. how did I not remember that design? Might have to take a crack at something based off it myself. Great work - how did you make the blade collar?
  13. It's easy to check - just file the edge of your cracked blade until you hit hardened steel. You're overthinking this - struggling to harden a simple steel in oil is a good thing - leaving large grain size to increase hardenability is not.
  14. yup, probably decarb. An electric kiln usually has an oxidising environment, which burns the carbon out of the surface, and you may need a good few passes with a file before you hit hardened steel...
  15. 1. If the spine is hardened, you overheated the blade, and will need to re-normalise at least once 2.if the blade is close to final dimensions, a water quench will be very risky 3. As your problem is over hardening water would be counterproductive anyway, and is pointless unless you have good temperature control- ie +/-15f. 4. your best bet is to normalise 2x (heat just past non magnetic and cool in air), Apply a small amount of clay - remember that not all of the uncovered steel will harden without overheating, so clay no more than the top 1/3rd of the blade. Heat to just past non-mag and quench in heated oil. Temper immediately at 400f. Grind the surface to remove decarb.