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jake cleland

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jake cleland last won the day on March 21

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About jake cleland

  • Birthday 04/30/1979

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  1. You can easily make a hidden tang knife without a drill press. You cannot really make a full tang knife with scales without one. To answer your question, though, you just alternate between working the steel on the edge and on the flat.
  2. You can probably regrind the tip, as long as you remove all the discoloured steel, but if you burnt your steel during heat treat, you got it about 1000f too hot. You will need to normalise it at least 3x, by bring it up to just past non-magnetic, and letting it air cool, and then bring it to just past non-magnetic and quench.
  3. yup - these wee bastards fight dirty. Beautiful result, though...
  4. Jeff, I haven't kept a record of the exact hours that go into an individual piece for years - too depressing - , but I'd guess the knife has about 30 hours in it, and about half of that would be decorative/cosmetic stuff - carving, inlay, engraving, bluing, etching etc...
  5. thanks for the comments - delivered it to its new owner on Thursday, and was very well received...
  6. drill holes through the tang, and countersink corresponding holes in the scales. This will both lighten the tang significantly, and provide a much more secure epoxy joint. Obviously, removing material from the tang will weaken it, but if you drill in a kind of offset honeycomb pattern, you will leave plenty of strength - a knife is most susceptible to bending perpendicular to its long axis, particularly in the third closest to the blade/handle junction, so as long as your holes don't align perpendicular to the long axis, and you remove less than half the tang material, you'll be fine: if you still want to adjust the balance further, you can taper the tang, and consider switching to lighter pins - 3/8ths is a lot of brass...
  7. worst DM ever...
  8. Just finishing this one up. 4 3/8ths" blade of 1095, 1/8th" thick, differentially hardened, with some subtle alloy banding brought out by a deep etch. Sculpted composite steel and copper guard. Bogoak handle carved with celtic knots, and inlaid with engraved silver escutcheons. Copper butt plate, bail and ring, and pins. Hand stitched leather sheath: let me know what you think...
  9. the blade shape is similar to a parang, but the handles are a pretty generic western style...
  10. superglue. Flood the joint between handle and guard until it fills the slack at the guard/blade junction.
  11. yup, the tip is definitely too short and blunt - for a hira zukuri blade the tip length should be about 1 1/2 x its width. You might also want a bit more taper in width from the machi to the start of the tip. To get any kind of depth of hardening in oil on 1/4" 1095, you'll want to take the edge down to about 1.5mm, and leave off the clay wash on the exposed steel - it just slows things down in oil. Remember that any sori will be negative in oil. You can mitigate this by hardening portions of the spine.
  12. files and paper...
  13. here you go Alan - it's only at 320, and will probably need to go back on a flat platen 'cause there's a couple of wobbles in the surface, but you get the idea...
  14. Just finished the carving on this dirk handle, and I'm pretty happy with it, so I figured I'd show it here. Blade is 15" long, 3/8ths thick san mai of 1095 and antique wrought iron from the Knoydart peninsula. Handle is turned and carved from figured walnut, with a copper ferrule...
  15. looks like maybe the larger one wasn't completely sealed - a thick layer of decarb can have this effect on a thin blade, just like it was laminated with unhardenable steel/iron...