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jake cleland

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jake cleland last won the day on June 25

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About jake cleland

  • Birthday 04/30/1979

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    http://www.knifemaker.co.uk
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    Isle of Skye

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  1. I was literally within spitting distance of Talisker when it happened...
  2. yeah, I dropped my decent camera and it died. And today I shredded my front tire, only to find out the spare was 3" too large, which made for an interesting 25 mile drive home... also my pizza dough didn't rise. It's been a day...
  3. Just finished this up as a present for a friend. Heat blued and lacquered 1095 with a forged copper pommel: let me know what you think...
  4. Nice, but you should finish shaping the nakago before you fit the habaki...
  5. just finishing these up. 3 1/4" blades of differentially hardened 1075+Cr, with safe false edges and filework, dyed burr elm handles, copper butt plates and leather sheaths: let me know what you think...
  6. cut the blade shape from a piece of card and pierce it with a nail or pin at the pivot hole (just below the centre line of the blade - I usually draw round a coin or washer to get the heel shape and pierce through the centre, then design from there, making sure the spine starts above the circle...) leave the backstop/tang oversized at this stage. Then pin the blade template to a larger piece of card, and draw round it in both the open and closed positions and design the handle around that. Finally, with the blade in the closed position, stick another nail through the card for the stop pin where you want the blade to stop. move the blade template to the open position and pierce through the stop pin hole into the tang, and then shape the tang to meet the whole...
  7. yup, turning spindles and a hand saw - no need for power tools. Pre cut scales are hugely wasteful for most things, and massively expensive.
  8. I toyed with the Idea of a talon shaped guard, but it was too busy and messed with the lines, so It'll get basically a Japanese mount - copper habaki and seppas, small hamidashi style tsuba with some sculpting around the mimi, buffalo horn fuchi. Thinking I might make the pommel nut in the form of a lance head...
  9. all the actual carving is done with chisels/gravers, but I used a burr for some surface texturing
  10. Been working on a blade for the past few days. It's a 9 1/4" 9 bar serpent core dagger - silver steel edges with a serpent of alternating 15n20 and 11 layer twist set in mild steel: I'm making it to fit this handle I've been working on, carved from sycamore: it's been pretty fun so far...
  11. I just lay the edge of the blade flat on the anvil with the parts I want to temper hanging off the edge, and place another piece of steel on the edge of the blade to keep it in place, and temper with a torch. The anvil is enough of a heat sink to prevent any bleed into the edge...
  12. Just finished this up, another of the plain kitchen knives I make for friends and locals. *" blade, through hardened Cs70 with a differential temper, 2mm on the spine, tapering to 1.5 at the break, S ground, with an etched and buffed scotchbrite finish, bubinga scales and copper pins: let me know what you think...
  13. Always convex - the convexity, known as niku ('meat'), is important both functionally and aesthetically. How much curve is open to interpretation, and depends on the shape, spine thickness, purpose and again aesthetics...
  14. Dudgeon is an English word, though possibly from a Scots or Welsh root, for box wood root, which in the medieval period was the only native wood which it was legal to stain black to mimic ebony. The word became synonymous with this style of dagger. In Scots we still say that someone is 'up to high dudgeon', meaning in a killing mood, which comes from the dagger form.
  15. Just finished this up. I'll try and get proper pics and say more about it at the weekend, but It's 1075+Cr, bogoak, steel, copper and silver: let me know what you think...
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