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jake cleland

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jake cleland last won the day on February 2

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About jake cleland

  • Birthday 04/30/1979

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    http://www.knifemaker.co.uk
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    Isle of Skye

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  1. jake cleland

    Good inexpensive wood rasp set?

    Never found a need for a half round rasp. I use a japanese saw rasp, and clean up with a half round file.
  2. jake cleland

    Maybe a Hunter? I dunno you guys tell me ~WIP~

    And I'm afraid you've vastly over estimated the capabilities of a buffing machine - their purpose is to remove the very fine scratches left by hand sanding, for which there is no substitute.
  3. jake cleland

    Maybe a Hunter? I dunno you guys tell me ~WIP~

    No need for a vise - hold the taped blade in your left hand and a rasp/file in your right hand, and apply one to the other. Shape the profile first, then chamfer the corners at 45*, then blend into smooth curves. Repeat with sandpaper wrapped round a piece of wood.
  4. jake cleland

    First commission!

    I always ask what the customer's budget is. Generally they give a range, $300 - $500 say, and if it's reasonable, I'll produce a couple of designs within that range. If their budget is on the low side, I'll give them a design for a simpler version of what they want, but I'll also produce a design of a fully realised version - often they'll find the extra cost, or ask to pay in instalments...
  5. jake cleland

    Hamon and Yakiba tsuchi

    Basically, clay is the absolute least important variable in hamon creation, to the degree that most of the classic hamon structures can be produced without clay. Steel composition, hada style, thermal history, quench temperature, quenchant and quenchant temperature are all more important. About the best that can be said about clay layout is that the overall shape of the hamon (ie how far from the edge it forms at any given point) can be influenced by laying down a bead of clay where you want the habuchi to form, that gunome are usually produced by single ashi laid perpendicular to the edge, and that choji are often produced by laying down ashi as an 'X' shape or an inverted 'Y' shape...
  6. jake cleland

    Okay yes this is going to be a DUMB question

    They're not ruined, and I'm not trying to discourage you. Five minutes with a file or a grinder and they'll be fine.
  7. jake cleland

    Okay yes this is going to be a DUMB question

    You started out with two 90 degree corners to take down. Now you have one 90 degree corner and two 135 degree corners to take down. I'm afraid you are no closer to a radius than you were when you started...
  8. jake cleland

    Okay yes this is going to be a DUMB question

    Those are shears, not fullering dies. You want a half-round radius, not a point. Should be a couple of minutes with a file if you have a vise (which you need).
  9. jake cleland

    All Purpose Kitchen Knife

    The wider the blade, the more width you need in the handle to control it. I think that handle design would work fine with the edge taken back to the first of the erased lines in your sketch. I actually made something similar about 10 years ago...
  10. jake cleland

    What did you do in your shop today?

    I forged that serpent billet into an 8 1/2" broken back seax blade, ground it down to hardening thickness, and gave it a test etch:
  11. jake cleland

    ABS Journeyman test of production knives?

    The ABS tests don't really say much about the quality of the knife, per se; rather they test the ability of the smith to forge, heat treat and grind to meet a set of (somewhat arbitrary, somewhat contradictory) criteria....
  12. jake cleland

    Game of Death Tanto

    Even though I could guess what was coming from the title, that still brought a smile to my face. From an aesthetic standpoint, if it were mine i'd be inclined to make a couple of very slight changes: I think that if the habaki and mekugi were both black it would tie the whole piece together perfectly...
  13. jake cleland

    What did you do in your shop today?

    Yeah. The crash was nearly 5 years ago now, but there was quite extensive nerve damage, which means it hurts all the time, but also most of the autonomic movement has stopped, so I lose muscle tone incredibly quickly when I'm not working it, and when I do work it enough to get the muscle back it messes with the fine motor control in my hand - it's not ideal for going back and forth between heavy forging and carving... Ayway, I cut the tip off today and got it ground down to pretty much clean, and everything looks good. As it stands, the blade is 7" long, 7mm thick and 1 1/4" wide, so I should have plenty of material to forge something nice out of it: But my local pub has just re-opened after 3 1/2 weeks, so now I'm gonna go and get drunk...
  14. jake cleland

    What did you do in your shop today?

    that's why I like to cheat a bit - I buy the wrought in 5/16ths square, the suminagashi is already layered and close to size, I use silver steel because it's quicker to forge round to square, etc. The spine sections are all unhardenable, so I can set the welds 1 or 2 at a time, quench from black and clean up and wire for the next weld without wasting too much time or fuel. Since I injured my arm, I need to work smart instead of hard. Even then, that billet probably took about 6 hours all told, and I was In a stupid amount all night afterwards...
  15. jake cleland

    What did you do in your shop today?

    most of it tears off during welding/wire brushing/fluxing etc. Some of it welds, but it gets ground off anyway. If you have a welder, use that instead...
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