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jake cleland

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jake cleland last won the day on November 28 2020

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About jake cleland

  • Birthday 04/30/1979

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  1. Some epoxies can be coloured somewhat with a fine permanent marker or spirit based leather dye and a fine brush.
  2. I really like the blade design for a general purpose camp knife. For a dedicated cooking knife, perhaps not so much. To me, a kitchen knife needs an edge profile with a fairly gentle even curve from heel to tip, and enough depth at the heel for knuckle clearance. How those two things are connected, ie the line of the spine, is a matter of personal taste. But any knife will cut up food for a meal, and a camp knife has to do other tasks which a kitchen knife is not suited for, so I'd say your blade is fine. The handle however... knives are tools, and good tool handles are comfortable and versati
  3. Looks like you're off to a good start. It's worth noting that the hamachi and mune-machi are not usually offset on Japanese blades, and fitting the habaki will be easier if they are in line. You should also bear in mind that if you're fitting a wooden tsuka, and wrapping in both same and ito-maki, it takes up quite a lot of space, and you'll probably have to drop the top line of the nakago to fit it all within the profile of your design - you can always just use same panels, but you lose a lot of strength and will probably still need some extra wall thickness at the top of the tsuka to compens
  4. 1/4" is no problem with short pieces where you can set the weld in 1 or 2 heats. It's not really a surface area problem so much as thinner pieces are harder to keep properly aligned. These days I try and set the welds by squeezing with tongs in the forge, which seems to help with slippage and having the unwelded parts open up on you...
  5. The back panel of the sheath has a pivot pin and locating stud:
  6. Parrots a weird creatures, and very hard to get right. Raptors are easy. the hook knife was a challenge - you need to grind them and then forge to shape. I hollow ground the inside, but it still ended up slightly convex after forging on a bick. to do it again I'd probably forge it like a yakut knife with a deep hollow on the inside, and scroll it freehand. I ended up using a drum sander on a foredom to grind the inside and finish the bevels...
  7. Just got these glued up as a Christmas present for a friend. Cs70, stained elm handles and copper ferrules: they'll get wooden scabbards, and I'll probably carve a hawks head on the hook knife scabbard, or else it's gonna look like one of those parrot head umbrella handles...
  8. I would glue the spacer materials together and do a 'gallery' type fit - scribe, file as close as you can, and then chamfer all the edges.
  9. Pretty much, but the CS series tends to be a bit higher in manganese, 0.6-0.7%.
  10. A friend ordered a kitchen knife as a Christmas present for his future father-in-law, so I made him this - clay hardened CS70, bubinga and copper, with a bit of filework: let me know what you think...
  11. All etchants will etch more on hard steel than soft steel, because the hard steel is in a more energetic state than the soft. The final look is dependent on what you do after the etch - polishing out the oxides, buffing, boiling, blueing etc. What are you trying to do?
  12. Still futzing with this one that I've been working on for the past few days as a distraction from the basket hilt that's breaking me (hopefully more on that front soon...). 1095 blade, hammered copper habaki, brass seppas, bog oak fuchi and kashira, stained and lacquered poplar burl tsuka, buffalo horn mekugi, stained elm saya sealed with shellac. Still got to play with the polish a bit and maybe make some menuki. And I still need to buy a new camera, but my car's in the shop, and it'll be another week before I find out how poor I am... let me know what yo
  13. I've been working on hamons for close to 20 years, and get the result I'm hoping for maybe 1 in 10. That looks perfectly fine to me - you're not going to get anything flashier with that steel. There looks to be plenty of activity that could be brought out, so you can use it for polishing an etching practice, but there's no mileage in going for a full art polish on a kitchen knife that's going to get used, in my opinion. If it were me, I'd give it a longish soak in ferric to get some contrast and just let the natural patina develop from there.
  14. That isn't going to be anywhere near as much of a problem on a kitchen knife cross section...
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