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jake cleland

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Everything posted by jake cleland

  1. Just finished this small narrow sax. Wrought iron and silver steel for the blade, box wood bolster and bog oak handle, carved with a bind rune for the recipient and a geometric border. Riveted copper draw ring with bronze bail. Tooled leather sheath with copper and bronze fittings. let me know what you think.
  2. Just finishing this one up. 1095, antler and copper. let me know what you think...
  3. 4mm is pretty thin for a dirk (the etymology probably comes from 'durke' meaning stout or thick in Old Scots), so I would go full convex to zero.
  4. 'Bolster' to me implies a degree of mass which the very thin sheet guard plates do not have - they're more like washers than anything. Ferrules fit over a recessed area at the front of the haunches, and can be fairly plain oval shapes - or more commonly slightly apple seed shapes, as the haunches tend to be narrower on the edge side and fatter at the spine - but the nicer ones tend to be tapered from haunches to blade, and kind of folded over the end of the handle a bit so they more fully enclose the blade, and have a slight arc to them as well...
  5. ferrules are common, as is thin plate. Bolsters less so.
  6. Depending on the diameter, you can usually just use the tip portion of a round or half round file.
  7. Feeling pretty burned out on commissions, and wanted to make something fun. I've been thinking about folk art, and whimsy, and the direction i want to take my work. I see so many technically perfect knives with complex damascus and precious materials all over facebook, and they do nothing for me. I Was also thinking about those 19th C. French 'Satanist' daggers with the figurative grim reaper handles, and wanted do do something with a similar theme. But I realised any grim reaper I carve is pretty much going to end up as a version of Terry Pratchett's DEATH, so I went with a Persian style blad
  8. Short answer, yes. That's absolutely no problem.
  9. You only need one tool to start carving and you can make it in half an hour. I use this graver for 90% of my carving: It's a little under 1/8th thick, 1/4" deep, 4" long. the point is a little under 3/8ths long, so about a 35ish degree angle, though there is a tiny bit of relief in the first 1/4" The edge is sharpened slightly steeper - I just touch it up on a hard felt wheel every year or so. the handle on this is a commercial graver handle, but it's really just there to rest against your palm, so any rounded lump of hardwood will do. The tape is just padding to redu
  10. This was commissioned by the manager of a deer estate for processing red deer. The references he gave me were 'Viking Knife' and the Tapio Wirkkala puukko, but the design took a lot of back and forth, as it needed a long, narrow blade as they are now required to go in through the pelvis for large portions of the cleaning. This is what I came up with in the end: 13.5cm blade, a little under 1/8th thick, in clay hardened 1095, with a mustard patina under a baked oil finish. Antique wrought iron bolster and pommel, mild steel pommel
  11. Forging a copper rose pommel for a misericorde I'm working on. Also going to try and make a couple of tiny ones for the ends of the quillions...
  12. I made this about 8 years ago, inspired by the Coleridge poem, but never got it finished 'til now, after someone wanted to buy it. let me know what you think...
  13. Just got this one finished. Antler, bog oak, copper and 1095: let me know what you think...
  14. Just got these finished up. Clay hardened 1095 with filework and mustard etch, and a baked oil finish. Carved bog oak handles, with antler bolsters and pommels. Bog oak sheaths with leather throats, and copper clips for antler handled ferro rod fire steels. Commercial boxes with fitted foam lining. Went a little more rustic than usual, but I think I like them... Let me know what you think...
  15. The actual proportions are highly variable, but the handle should be around 4" overall, no more than 4 1/2". Remember that the dirk is held with the thumb and forefinger around the haunches (in a backhand grip the thumb and first three fingers grip the shaft and the pinkie curls loosely around the haunches).
  16. If you've filled the handle so the tang is a decent indexable fit, just epoxy is fine. Traditionally they often just had whittle tangs 1.5" long, secured with cutlers resin. The other traditional solution is to pin through the handle front to back, either through the top mount, or just below it. Personally I often use a pin through the centre of the handle, or somewhere it will fit into the carving.
  17. he's on faceook: Theodore Banning
  18. I normally treat them as consumables, but the problem is that the mounting for the grinder on the lathe bed is bolted into the handle holes, so if it dies I'll probably need to find exactly the same model, and hope they haven't changed the housing. I've got multiple fullers to do on a 34" blade, and I really don't want it to die halfway through...
  19. Some years back my dad built a fuller grinding set up, which uses a Draper angle grinder mounted on an old lathe bed (the design required the handle mountings to be in line and parallel to the cutting action). I can't find anything on line about the duty cycle for that machine corded angle grinders in general. Any idea how long it would be safe to run it for continuously without burning out, how long to cool down etc?
  20. Made this as part of a makers challenge on facebook. Got a little carried away. 1075, maple, steel and copper: Not quite finished in this pic, but you get the idea. build album is here let me know what you think...
  21. Depends on the type of knife and lock, but generally down a bit and back a bit. I mark a circle on the pivot area, divide it into cardinal quadrants, and make the hole in the corner of the lower back quadrant. Do this on heavy card stock, and cut out the blade shape (but leave plenty of excess at the back to figure out the lock) and use a split pin to attach it to another piece of card on which you design the handle...
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