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jake cleland

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Everything posted by jake cleland

  1. nice - i really like the a-symmetric damascus pattern - it adds more interest than the usual mirrored patterns people use on damascus daggers. is the sheath wood lined or wet formed?
  2. hi Dee, that's a great help. i hadn't thought of just making it in two pieces - cunning, but doesn't the soft solder bugger up the silver? iv'e found that it darkens the silver and makes it brittle; do you just mean a lower temp silver solder? as for the heat-bluing, i find that as long as you do it quickly, the O1 still stays plenty hard enough for a dagger, or a camp knife for that matter - wouldn't try it with a 10xx though.
  3. when inlaying into metal, you have to undercut your channels, either by hand (some kind of magnification is handy) or by etching with nitric, which i haven't tried, but which i hear can be quite tricky. i think copper is naturally more inclined to fuse with other metals under pressure than silver - theoretically you can weld just about any metals with pressure alone - but i wouldn't rely on this for adhesion!
  4. copper will oxidise faster and darker, which will give you more contrast. scottish swords were sometimes inlayed with silver in the fullers, and heat blued and the bevels polished to leave the fullers blue and the inlay golden- this also provided the owner with a visible record of the evenness of the spring temper. the same technique was also used on scottish pistols.
  5. here's one i'm working on for a commission; figured i'd do a kinda progress thing. the initial design - 9 1/2" blade, 4 1/2" handle: Blade blank roughed out of O1, handle rough turned and shaped of bog oak, with a silver and copper guard: and the blade rough ground and heat treated - i know that its been tempered a bit hot for a dagger, but the customer wants it heat - blued, and intends it to be a purely decorative - i had to talk him into having a point and sharp edges. let me know what you think so far, and any bright ideas how to make a silver habaki for a double edged dagg
  6. Jim; yeah, sandvik make steel, but i don't know how easy it is to get in the US. the steel i use is 12-C-27, which was designed for surgical applications (scalpels, bone saws, forceps etc.), and makes a pretty good knife. it's a bugger to heat-treat though - need to get it very hot - about 1850 - and give it a long soak, and i have trouble with decarb - usually i leave about 1/32" all over to grind off before i get down to good steel. to be honest i hate working with stainless, but some customers just like shiny, and get awful dissapointed by rust.
  7. just finished the sheath for this one:
  8. that's real nice - what did you use to oxidise the blade? i found it to be a bugger to get an even patina on D2.
  9. here's one i'm just finishing up for another order. it's a style i haven't made for a few years; i had one just like it sitting in the gallery for three years, then two people tried to buy it on the same day, so i made this for one of them. sandvik stainless blade, brass bolsters and pins, olive wood scales and turquoise spacers. sorry about the crappy pics. hopefully this is my last stainless one for a while; just one more order to do for the moment, at that should be pretty special - double edged dirk in heat blued O1 with a carved bog-oak handle, silver and copper fittings an
  10. cheers dave. i went with the butterfly design, as i dont like 3 piece sheaths for etched blades - if the steel contacts the leather it is easy for grit to get trapped inside and scratch the blade finish, and if the knife gets left in the sheath then moisture can also get trapped, rusting the blade. anyway, here's what i came up with:
  11. ok, i woke up this morning and realised i had no idea how to make a sheath for this; any suggestions? thanks for all the comments - this was the first wharny i've made, and i'm glad you guys like it.
  12. nice. think i'm gonna 'borrow' that filework pattern.lol. seriously, that's some lovely work, cheers, jake.
  13. i was going to go to the pub (30 miles away) today, but my designated driver has come down with the flu, so i tried to be productive. i didn't feel like doing the fiddly handle on the order i'm meant to be finishing, so i made this instead: full tang, 10 1/2" overall, 5 1/4" blade clay hardened 1080, flat ground with micro bevel edge, polished to 320x and etched with vinegar then lemon. leather handle wrap. a really simple knife, but i think it turned out pretty nice. i'm loving this 1080 - so much more fun than tool steel or bloody stainless, and i'm about to by a whole l
  14. i really like the pieces you are turning out at the moment; they seem more varied while still maintaining your own style. how do you get the pin alignment - seems tricky without drilling all the way through the guard?
  15. thanks don. that means a heck of a lot coming from you - your folders are amazing. every so often i make a locking folder as a technical challenge, and half way through i always think 'what the hell did i start this for?' just took another look at your website, and on the available page you have a slip joint - how do you attach the backbar/spring to the liners? i'm always worried that that's the place where the knife will fail as the leverage generated by the action of the heel against the spring has gotta be pretty huge?
  16. perhaps not with this one, but with nickle damascus, i've wondered about giving it a really deep etch, and then using rust remover and a fine wire brush to clean off the oxides, then blueing it and rubbing back the high points with 2000x paper. this would give you a pretty permanent colour, but i dont know if it would be possible to remove the oxides fully enough to take a good colour. just a thought, cheers, jake.
  17. thanks for the comments guys. i too kinda like the double grind - looks sorta like a fold in cloth, which i hope to accentuate in the final polish. jens - all my pieces seem to come out the same general shape; i don't know why - when i doodled the blade for this it was a much more traditional sardinian shape, kinda like a laguinole(sp?) but heavier, but when i get to shaping, my hands just do what my eye tells me is right. i'm not complaining though, as i generally like the shapes i come up with. this started out mainly as a test piece for heat treating - its the off-cut from a bar of 1080 tha
  18. not quite finished yet - i've been on holiday for a few weeks - but i haven't posted for a while, so here it is. blade: clay coated 1080, triple normalised, polished to 1000x and etched with lemon juice. i'll have to do the polish and etch again cause i put som scratches in it tring to get everything lined up. the blade has a double grind because i designed this one on the hoof and the first inch of the blade comes through the top of the handle when closed, so that part is blunt and about 1/16" thick; it'll do as a striker for a synthetic flint. the heel of the blade has a brass extension pi
  19. ok, another question. with my normalising cycles, should i be decarburising the blade to reduce hardenability - 0.8% carbon seems a little high to get good activity - or is it all about grain size? so far i've been starting my normalising about 1600f and coming down to about 1400. is there any advantage to going for sucessivly cooler heats beyond this - as in sub-critical? i'm starting to get what i think are quite nice hamons, but they're not very active, and i'd like to start getting some wilder effects. once again, any help would be appreciated. (curse this forum - a year ago i was hap
  20. just clay coated and heat treated a folder blade of 1080, and from what i can see so far it has a pretty good hamon, but it warped very slightly at the riccasso and now it runs slightly sqint. it's just a friction folder, so i'm not bothered about getting it perfect, but i don't want it to rub on the stag when opening/closing. so far ive tempered it once to straw colour for 30 mins just to draw the stresses, but i want to know what temp (and colour as i dont have an accurate temp guage)to draw it to before i try to tweak it. any advice? cheers, jake
  21. nice work. when i saw this i remembered that i had promised something similar for my best friend who now lives in sardinia - just tempering it at the moment - it's changed a bit since first conception, because i decided to use stag for the handle, but thanks for the inspiration.
  22. i really like both of them - elegant lines and simple styling. i particularly like the flow of the san-mai piece.nice.
  23. these were all made a while ago, but i just found the memory card with the pics, so i figured i'd post them. first is an antique ivory handled sgian dubh, carved by hand which was a lot of work - ivory takes forever to clean up and any scratches show up immediately. it has a heat blued O1 blade, carved and cast mounts and an ebony pommel mount. and a liner lock folder with stainless blade, nickle silver liners, carved maccassar scales with engraved silver inlay, heat blued screws and a garnet thumb stud. another liner lock, this time with blue O1 blade and antique ivory s
  24. ok, here's the results of my early experiments with clay coating 1080. obviously the knife's not finished yet, but here's the specs. 5" blade, triple normalised, coated in fire cement and quenched in oil - i left a bit too much meat on the edge at h-t - the hamon seemed to have a lot more activity at 36 grit than it does now. blade taken ut to 1500 and then polished with aluminium oxide paste (i think - amway metal polish) and lemon juice on a leather pad, and neutralised by polishing with bicarbonate of soda mixed into a paste with a little water, which also removes some of the oxides. sta
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