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jake cleland

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Everything posted by jake cleland

  1. yeah, i figured i'd post progress pics over here until i get it finished enough for show and tell. this is pretty much a practice piece for the order, which isn't due until april, but i'll make moulds of the silver and hopefully make a bunch of these over the coming months. my aim is to start getting good hamons on the 1080, and to do some 1080/wrought iron san mai, so all my experiments will probably get fitted up in this style. cheers, jake.
  2. and the handle and waxes rough carved.....
  3. i've started work on a version of this, and here are some pics rough ground blades, with the designs: second blade after h-t (1080, clay coat, water quench - nasty): surviving blade (1080, clay coat, oil quench - still pretty hairy, lots of creaking and clay popping, but no 'ping', and it's now a week later and no cracks) with handle roughed out and waxes shaped for carving: thanks for looking, cheers, jake.
  4. just sent these pics to the customer so i figured i'd post them here. when i'm doing orders, i usually send pics at this stage so that the customer has an idea of what theyre getting, and can send a check - that way, they get the knife as soon as possible, i get paid as soon as it's finished, and i can send it away as soon as it's done, instead of having it sit around for a week while the check clears - if it does, i'll either want to start all over again or keep it for myself; if i send it straight away, it stops me from getting too invested! anyway, i'm rambling.... here's the pics:
  5. finally found a supplier for 3/16" 1080 here in the uk, which i bought primarily for clay hardened pieces. While i know that 1080 isn't the best 10xx steel for showing hamon, it's a heck of a lot better than the O1, D2 and spring steels which are the only things i've been able to get in sheet/bar stock here. so my question is: how do i go about heat treating this steel for the best hamon? oil or brine quench? normalising cycles? edge thickness at ht? clay thickness and placement? i'm planning on doing the first few pieces stock-removal, which i'm still more confident/faster at, starting pro
  6. way ahead of you Alan - thursday night music session in the local bar tonight (i say local - it's ten miles away), and i've just had a few Ardbegs -not skye, but ila's close enough - with some Bretonese friends; it really helps with the carving (and the language barrier). life is sweet. cheers, Jake.
  7. there's a pic of jason dingledine adjusting sori with a copper block and tapping on the ha here: http://www.tigerclawforge.net/about_my_work
  8. i was engraving fittings for a sgian dubh yesterday when the power went off. two hours later when the lights went back on i had gotten out of the "fine work" headspace, but i still wanted to do something, so i made this: i know it's not going to win any prizes for looks or quality, but im quite chuffed with it, seeing as it took 2 1/2 hrs all told. blade: 2.3 mm sandvick stainless ( the offcut from the sgian dubh blade), sabre ground at forty grit, edge quenched, with the scale left on the flats. handle: full tang with maccassar scales riveted with copper nails ( not the
  9. thanks. this piece is now finished and delivered- i ended up using shellac over the stain and finishing it with wax - you can see the results in show and tell under 'highland dirk'.
  10. really nice hamon - did you quench in water?
  11. thanks alan - the inlays over the screws do look like abalone in the pics, but they're actually reconstituted turquoise, which works nice for stuff like this, spacers etc; it's really easy to work and adds a little colour.
  12. jake, has the bog oak been stabilised? or is it just a very dense, homogenous piece? it seems to be carving very cleanly; i've always found this material quite tempermental to carve, but thats coming along beautifully. i've been too nervous to try to carve bog oak in that kind of style, but i think you've just inspired me to try a fighting dog knot in the Urnes style - maybe i'll do one in bog oak and another in walrus ivory. it's great to see how other people go about carving. keep up the good work, cheers, other jake.
  13. finished photos. cheers, jake.
  14. here's one i'm finishing up this weekend - another commission. the guy wanted a folder similar to the heat blued hunter i posted earlier in the year. it still needs some final touches - a thong hole liner, some inlay over the screws, a garnet in the thumb stud, and a lot of sanding/ laquering on the handle. blade: 5" sandvik stainless liners and bolsters: brass handle scales: purple heart inlays: carved mammoth ivory. this is a pretty big knife - 11" o/a when open - but it feels good in the hand and the walk and talk is pretty sweet, even before it's been oiled - just have to try not to g
  15. i don't see any pics.
  16. thanks for the comments guys, and thanks for the pics Mac; very helpful. i've been meaning to get around to buying that CD. cheers, jake.
  17. i've just been approached to make a viking style knife, and this is what i've come up with. once again i find myself leaning towards an eastern blade shape, but in the back of my mind i remember coming across this style of blade on a scandinavian blade-possibly in the Pitt-Rivers museum in Oxford; i'm wondering if anyone knows of any evidince of a viking blade of this kind of shape, or am i just dreaming. or does anyone know of any web sites with photos/drawings of viking blade shapes? the second pic is my original drawing, the first one has been messed with to straighten the spine. the c
  18. the pith or core won't be very deep in this piece of antler - the last couple of inches are generally solid. i would drill two holes one above the other - be careful not to break through the antler walls - and rip out the stuff between them with a wee saw blade - the saw on a swiss army knife/leatherman would work for this - to get a fairly close fit. you can also move the antler gently from side to side when you drill it to give an oval hole, but be very carful and wear eye protection if you try this. i would also drill a pin hole in the antler and tang before epoxying; if you don't it's imp
  19. thats a really pretty blade shape - how did you get the pattern? cheers, jake.
  20. wayne: if the tip bends, it's convex ground and you did two tempering cycles, then everything should be fine - hope i didn't worry you - i was just going on first impressions. Often the tip gets softer if you overheat it when grinding, but if you did this by hand that shouldn't be a factor; the only other thing i can think is because it was thinner it got hotter in the tempering, but that seems unlikely in two one hour cycles. possibly de-carb? how much meat was on the tip when you heat-treated? i don't think it matters anyway - i know that bill moran used to draw the tip right back on purpos
  21. that is an extremely nice piece of work for a first effort, and pretty ambitious too. it still looks plenty seaxy to me - there was traditionally a fairly broad cross section of shapes for this type of blade. my only concerns would be; a.) you dont have a ricasso, so you don't have a definite start point for your edge - a choil or a spanish notch can help with this style of grind, and b.) - this could be more serious - how did you temper it? if a file still skates, i would be inclined to say your edge is too hard for this size of knife - you seem to have ground right to the edge which could ma
  22. the knife is packed up and ready to go, so i cant take any more pics, but the fastenings are quite simple. basically, the knife and fork are nearly full tang, with the blade/tang flush with the back of the handle. the magnetic strip (the stuff they make fridge magnets from) is inlayed into the sheath so that it contacts the blade/tang for the full length. the locating stud is a copper dowel which goes through the tang and into the handle, and the protruding end has been domed, and locates into a champhored hole in the magnetic strip. the inside of the sheath opposite the magnets has been lined
  23. bob, the wood is london plane, which is a very light, short grained wood that carves very easily - i think its quite similar to maple and sycamore. i was originally going to use maccassar ebony, but as i worked out the design i decided that the very small surface area of the seams in the sheath required a non oily wood to get the neccessary strength from the glue joints. i stained the wood with a spirit based leather dye, rubbed it down with 0000 steel wool to highlight the carving, and applied several coats of shellaq to toughen up the surface, strengthen the carving and seal the grain. then
  24. thanks. it was only when i stopped thinking "dirk" and started thinking "tanto" that i got a handle on the design.
  25. the knife and fork also have a locating stud which provides the main security - this combines with the magnets so that they have to be pulled out as well as down to draw them, which i think should prevent such accidents.
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