Jump to content

jake cleland

Supporting Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by jake cleland

  1. I give quite a few of my carbon steel blades a heat blue finish on a mirror polish, but this is only any good for display knives, as the finish is very fragile, and even on knives which aren't used, the blue is very vulnerable to fingerprints etc. I think the colour looks fantastic, however, and was wondering if anyone knew how to make it more hard-wearing. I was considering using metal laquer coating, and any advice or comments would be appreciated, cheers, Jake.
  2. Thanks for the info. It's not a true hamon i'm hoping for (no pattern) so much as a defined line between the hard and soft steel. I know it's faint and very uninteresting, but here's a pic of a differentially hardened O1 tanto blade i made; clay coating, full quench in oil, so it's not a quench line. I remember reading a Bob Engath article a few years ago saying that you can get hamon on O1, but it always evens out, and the most you can hope for is a shallow wave pattern. t2.bmp
  3. I'm about to heat treat an O1 blade with a clay coating. I've had some sucess with this in the past, but the hamon is always faint and uniteresting, so i'm thinking of doing a split second edge quench in hot brine, immediately followed by a deep quench in warm oil. Do any of you think that this would help to get a more distinct hamon, or am i just going to crack the blade? I'm probably going to try it anyway, to satisfy my own curiosity, unless anyone knows for a fact it wont work, but predictions would be nice, and i'll take my "i told you so's" with good grace, I promise. Cheers, Jake
  4. thought i'd post a few more pics while i'm uploading photos. This was an order delivered on new years day, nothing fancy a plain and simple spring steel tanto and a slightly fancier on of clay tempered O1(work in progress) close up of blade(poor photo but not bade hamon for O1)
  5. heres one i beat out about a month ago and got finished up today. A little bit of background to explain the odd design. I found the steel amongst the many pounds (tons) of scrap i've accumulated. it was a four foot bar, and when i sawed it in half to make it less unwieldly the hacksaw was kicking up sparks, which i figured was a good sign. so i forged it out into a basic short tanto shape, mostly for shaping practice, as this was only my second day in the forge. The shape turned out good, and i was just bringing it up past non-mag to normalise when my dad came into the forge and messed up my f
  6. just finishing off a differentially heat threated blade, satin finished up to 1200, and am trying to etch it to bring out the hamon better. I'm using acetic acid (non brewed vinegar) and my results are patchy. I "de-greased" using washing up detergent on the final passes with the paper, then more detergent and boiling water. The blade comes out mottled with bright areas where it hasnt etched, and looks a bit scrappy. How can i get better results etching with vinegar? cheers, jake
  7. jake cleland


    does anyone have any information about a bronze age celtic sword called a falcetta?(sp) i came across a reference a few years ago, possibly in a barry cunliffe book, with a picture ; it looks sort of like a kopis or pointed kukri, seems to have about an 18" blade, and a thin handle/tang which wraps around the hand as a guard. i believe they were used on the iberian penninsula c.500BC. Looking at jake powning's seaxes put me in mind of this, and i was wondering if it would be possible to track some kind of connection between the two weapons. (have just designed a seax with this kind of blade sh
  8. when i first met my present girlfriend, a couple of years before we started going out, she mentioned a knife she was maybe interested in commissioning, in the Swedish style (she's from sweden) with a hollow metal handle. Nothing came of it at the time, it being something of an idle pub conversation, but two years later this was the result. I don't think it was quite what she had in mind, but after two years kicking around in the back of my head, this is what came out, and were both rather pleased with it.... The blade is clay tempered O1 - it doesn't show much hamon, because it was a compr
  9. possibly a stupid question, but when you make up multy layer billets like these, can you flux between the layers before you start, or should you just flux from the edges at red heat?sorry if i'm hijacking, by the way, but you seem like the people to ask
  10. So you're a Talisker drinker Mac? good man. I'll raise a wee dram to you tonight Thankyou to everybody for their encouraging comments; i would post some more pics, but this infernal machine crashed something hideous last night, and i had to completely reboot it - lost everything, so the next few days will consist of uploading pictures and music, combined with a lot of cursing. There's a reason i studied history and work with my hands; technology makes me crazy. Cheers for now, Jake
  11. Having diffoculty dragging pics out of the computer, but heres a better pic of the first one and a couple of others
  12. Hi, been lurking here for a while now, and figured it was time to introduce myself and my work. I am a nominally full time maker working on the isle of skye off the northwest coast of scotland. i've been making knives for a couple of years now, since i left university, but until today it has all been stock removal - this site finally inspired me to get out into the forge and this afternoon i beat out my first blade. fire is fun. once i photograph todays effort, i'll post and you can see what you think. Anyway, i've got some pics of my regular work above. as you can see, i make a lot of sgian
  • Create New...