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jake cleland

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Posts posted by jake cleland

  1. Looks like you're off to a good start. It's worth noting that the hamachi and mune-machi are not usually offset on Japanese blades, and fitting the habaki will be easier if they are in line. You should also bear in mind that if you're fitting a wooden tsuka, and wrapping in both same and ito-maki, it takes up quite a lot of space, and you'll probably have to drop the top line of the nakago to fit it all within the profile of your design - you can always just use same panels, but you lose a lot of strength and will probably still need some extra wall thickness at the top of the tsuka to compensate...

  2. 28 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

    In which case, why not a parrot head umbrella handle? :lol:

    That looks like a nice carving set. How hard was it to do the hook knife blade?  

    Parrots a weird creatures, and very hard to get right. Raptors are easy. the hook knife was a challenge - you need to grind them and then forge to shape. I hollow ground the inside, but it still ended up slightly convex after forging on a bick. to do it again I'd probably forge it like a yakut knife with a deep hollow on the inside, and scroll it freehand. I ended up using a drum sander on a foredom to grind the inside and finish the bevels...

  3. Just got these glued up as a Christmas present for a friend. Cs70, stained elm handles and copper ferrules:

     

    carving set 1.jpg

     

    they'll get wooden scabbards, and I'll probably carve a hawks head on the hook knife scabbard, or else it's gonna look like one of those parrot head umbrella handles...

     

    • Like 2
  4. A friend ordered a kitchen knife as a Christmas present for his future father-in-law, so I made him this - clay hardened CS70, bubinga and copper, with a bit of filework:

     

    farq 4.jpg

    farq 5.jpg

     

    farq 6.jpg

    let me know what you think...

    • Like 4
  5. Still futzing with this one that I've been working on for the past few days as a distraction from the basket hilt that's breaking me (hopefully more on that front soon...). 1095 blade, hammered copper habaki, brass seppas, bog oak fuchi and kashira, stained and lacquered poplar burl tsuka, buffalo horn mekugi, stained elm saya sealed with shellac. Still got to play with the polish a bit and maybe make some menuki. And I still need to buy a new camera, but my car's in the shop, and it'll be another week before I find out how poor I am...

     

    butterfly 1.jpg

     

    butterfly 2.jpg

     

    let me know what you think...

    • Like 11
  6. I've been working on hamons for close to 20 years, and get the result I'm hoping for maybe 1 in 10. That looks perfectly fine to me - you're not going to get anything flashier with that steel. There looks to be plenty of activity that could be brought out, so you can use it for polishing an etching practice, but there's no mileage in going for a full art polish on a kitchen knife that's going to get used, in my opinion. If it were me, I'd give it a longish soak in ferric to get some contrast and just let the natural patina develop from there.

    • Like 2
  7. 5 minutes ago, billyO said:

    I'll add here, only try this one or 2 more times at most.  Dave Lisch, MS did a hamon polishing demo recently with a bowie that he had to HT 3 times in order to get the hamon activity he wanted, but in the process, he unexpectedly turned the bowie into a recurve.  He explained that during the multiple differential heat treating, while maintaining a soft spine, caused the edge steel to shrink enough, and pull the tip down.  His lesson was to re-do the quench if you're not happy with the hamon, but don't do it more than 2 or 3 times unless you're ok with changing the shape of the blade.

    That isn't going to be anywhere near as much of a problem on a kitchen knife cross section...

  8. It would be useful to see an unedited pic to see what you have, but there is nothing inherently wrong with this in a hamon - basically the part that doesn't darken wasn't brought up to critical (it is basically a form of utsuri), which shows good temp control. There maybe activities in the actual hamon which could be brought out, but this steel is finnicky and needs a lot of normalization to show much of anything...

     

    That said, you would probably have better luck with ferric or even nitol...

  9. So I'm finally going to get around to building a sword heat treating forge, and I'd like to be able to get an accurate read on the temperature. I have 2x 12" K-type probes and a digital thermometer/display unit that I bought years ago. My question is how to mount them? Do I need to stick some stainless tube into the forge to shield them, or can I just drill a hole in the shell and poke them through the wool? Do I need to do anything to protect the plastic connectors at the ends of the probes? Ideally I'd like to be able to take measurements at either end of the forge and one in the centre - can I just pull a probe out and stick it in a different hole?  Also, the instruction booklet for the thermometer says nothing about calibration - should I check it by sticking a probe in a pot of boiling water?

  10. Today I sharpened the blade and added a copper suspension ring and belt loop to the sheath. The Spanish notch is just a decorative design element. The filework also extends right round the tang, which is tapered in two planes.

     

    baroque 14.jpg

     

    baroque 15.jpg

     

    baroque 16.jpg

     

    baroque 17.jpg

     

     

    • Like 3
  11. Just finishing this up for a friend who's a classical violin player. 1095, buffalo horn spacers attached with blind pins, bog oak and poplar burl:

     

    baroque 10.jpg

     

    baroque 11.jpg

     

    baroque 12.jpg

     

    baroque 13.jpg

     

    let me know what you think...

    • Like 4
  12. 8 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

     

    I agree.  That's where an acetylene torch with a small tip is very handy.  I'd love to watch one of the old smiths back in the late 1600s - early 1700s make one of those baskets.

    No acetylene, sadly, but my dad has a good half inch propane torch which might put out enough heat for small joints. Figure I'll get the main joint's done first and see how that goes...

  13. 16 hours ago, Brian Dougherty said:

    Dayum Jake.  That'll be a nice WIP! <nudge>

     

    15 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

    Oh, my!  Yep, WIP, please?

     

    12 hours ago, Clifford Brewer said:

    Plus one on a WIP...............:D

    I'll try and document as I go. May have a trial run at the basket next week. My forge doesn't get hot enough to weld mild to mild consistently, so my plan at the moment is to braze all the parts together. I figure I can dovetail all the main joints off the main guard and cold peen them tight,  and wire up the butt joints at the top. If I get everything tight, hopefully when I come to braze on the saltires and other decoration the braze shouldn't want to run out of the other joints too much, and I figure I can flux everything and have some filler rod handy... It just seems too complicated to try and do it all in a single brazing operation...

  14. 23 minutes ago, AJ Chalifoux said:

    Do you mean something like this?

    https://www.mcmaster.com/4406T29/

     

    If not, you can look up "air hose fittings" on McMaster, MSC, Grainger, etc.

    Nope, not like that. Think I've figured it out. 1/4" PCL to female 1/4" BSP from the compressor and 1/8th" hose tail to male 1/4" BSP from the hose. I'm sure there should be a way to do it with a single fitting...

    1 minute ago, DanM said:

    Which airgraver do you have?

    Lindsay palm control.

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