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jake cleland

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Posts posted by jake cleland

  1. A few years back I bought an airgraver with the insurance payout after a car crash, but shortly afterwards I moved house and didn't have a suitable place to set it up, so it sat in the box ever since. Long story short I'm now setting up a clean shop where I can use it, but I have no idea what kind of adaptor i need to attach it to a uk compressor. I know what I'm looking for - a 1/4" bsp nipple which fits the compressor, with either a 1/8th barb to fit directly into the hose, or a female connector that will fit the 1/8th nts male threaded part that is attached to the hose, but I have no idea what such a thing would actually be called... any ideas?


  2. Working on a dirk scabbard. The main body is built up from 2mm mill board, with wet moulded leather sheaths glued to the front to take the by-knife and fork. Still a few bit's and pieces to do before it's ready for covering, but I like to get these sheaths done fairly early in the process and give the glue as much time as possible to cure while I finish the rest of the knife/knives...


    wrought core 42.jpg

    • Like 2
  3. A few years ago Alan gave me a pipe hawk handle blank which I never got around to making a head for. It's my dad's birthday on Thursday and he smokes a pipe, and has a few pipe hawks he's made from hatchets,, so I decided to make a head to fit the handle and give them to him to finish up. I planned to make it from mild steel, but I couldn't find a suitable piece, so I used wrought. Had a bunch of problems because a.) I was running out of gas, b.) I don't have a drift, and c.) my forge doesn't really get hot enough to weld wrought to itself unless everything is tight and ground clean, which isn't really an option with a hawk head...


    So, it's a bit smaller than I'd wanted, the eye is a bit dodgy - freehanding a hawk eye is tricky - , and the bit moved during welding so there's a bit of a gap behind it... but it survived heat treat and is soaking in vinegar to clean the scale and flux from the eye before I file it clean.  Anyway, this is what I got:


    tomahawk 2.jpg

    tomahawk 4.jpg

    tomahawk 3.jpg


    • Like 4
  4. Just finished this. Forged 1095 with integral finger guard, antler scales with peened copper rivets. leather blade cover with riveted copper suspension ring, and antler toggle.


    antler edc 1.jpg


    antler edc 2.jpg


    antler edc 3.jpg


    excuse the picture quality and let me know what you think...

    • Like 3
  5. Just finishing up these as a commission from a friend for her twin brothers. Blades are iron serpents in mild steel with silver steel edges, about 4" long. Handles are boxwood, carved with two bands of dirk knot linked by a ring knot down the spine. One side of each handle has a view of our local mountain range, and the other has a bind rune for each brother's name. The knives have buffalo horn bolsters and lanyard bales, with a square plaited draw pull representing climbing rope, and copper spacers and brass pins.


    cat 1.jpg


    cat 2.jpg


    cat 3.jpg


    cat 4.jpg


    cat 5.jpg


    cat 6.jpg


    let me know what you think...

    • Like 5
  6. I started this last week while waiting for a shredded tyre to be replaced. It is inspired by the Carrigan Knife, though I've taken a few liberties. Blade is differentially hardened 1095, a little over 1/8th" thick. Handle frame is fileworked 1095. Scales are 6000 year old bog oak. It has a sculpted nickel silver blade collar and back strap, folded NS bolsters, brazed NS scabbard mounts, and NS pins. The only metal fittings which aren't Nickel silver are the frame itself, the Sam Browne which is turned from mild steel and soldered in place, and a 0.3mm sterling silver washer between the blade collar and handle frame. The sheath is made from laminated heavy card from the back of a sketch pad, covered with goatskin. It's a take down construction, and the blade is dismountable for cleaning/sharpening. This ended up being a fair bit more difficult than I'd anticipated, but I'm pretty pleased with the result...


    Anyway, pics:


    .black 2.jpg


    black 1.jpg


    black 3.jpg


    black 4.jpg


    let me know what you think.



    • Like 4
  7. 35 minutes ago, Brian Dougherty said:


    Well, I don't know where you are exactly, but you can't be too far from either Talisker or Torabhaig :)

    I was literally within spitting distance of Talisker when it happened...

    • Like 1
  8. 1 hour ago, Alan Longmire said:

    I like it.  B)  The pics are a bit grainy, though.

    yeah, I dropped my decent camera and it died. And today I shredded my front tire, only to find out the spare was 3" too large, which made for an interesting 25 mile drive home... also my pizza dough didn't rise. It's been a day...


    • Like 1
    • Haha 2
  9. just finishing these up. 3 1/4" blades of differentially hardened 1075+Cr, with safe false edges and filework, dyed burr elm handles, copper butt plates and leather sheaths:


    elm sgians 7.jpg


    elm sgians 5.jpg


    elm sgians 6.jpg


    elm sgians 8.jpg


    let me know what you think...

    • Like 4
  10. cut the blade shape from a piece of card and pierce it with a nail or pin at the pivot hole (just below the centre line of the blade - I usually draw round a coin or washer to get the heel shape and pierce through the centre, then design from there, making sure the spine starts above the circle...) leave the backstop/tang oversized at this stage. Then pin the blade template to a larger piece of card, and draw round it in both the open and closed positions and design the handle around that. Finally, with the blade in the closed position, stick another nail through the card for the stop pin where you want the blade to stop. move the blade template to the open position and pierce through the stop pin hole into the tang, and then shape the tang to meet the whole...

  11. 10 hours ago, Joshua States said:

    I bet! Any hardware planned?

    I toyed with the Idea of a talon shaped guard, but it was too busy and messed with the lines, so It'll get basically a Japanese mount -  copper habaki and seppas, small hamidashi style tsuba with some sculpting around the mimi, buffalo horn fuchi. Thinking I might make the pommel nut in the form of a lance head...

    • Like 1
  12. Been working on a blade for the past few days. It's a 9 1/4" 9 bar serpent core dagger - silver steel edges with a serpent of alternating 15n20 and 11 layer twist set in mild steel:


    dragon dagger 4.jpg


    I'm making it to fit this handle I've been working on, carved from sycamore:


    dragon 15.jpg


    it's been pretty fun so far...

    • Like 7
  13. 6 hours ago, Brian Dougherty said:

    Cool.  Did you do the differential temper with the edge in water?

    I just lay the edge of the blade flat on the anvil with the parts I want to temper hanging off the edge, and place another piece of steel on the edge of the blade to keep it in place, and temper with a torch. The anvil is enough of a heat sink to prevent any bleed into the edge...

    • Thanks 1
  14. Just finished this up, another of the plain kitchen knives I make for friends and locals. *" blade, through hardened Cs70 with a differential temper, 2mm on the spine, tapering to 1.5 at the break, S ground, with an etched and buffed scotchbrite finish, bubinga scales and copper pins:


    dayle 6.jpg


    let me know what you think...

    • Like 5
  15. Always convex - the convexity, known as niku ('meat'), is important both functionally and aesthetically. How much curve is open to interpretation, and depends on the shape, spine thickness, purpose and again aesthetics...

  16. Dudgeon is an English word, though possibly from a Scots or Welsh root, for box wood root, which in the medieval period was the only native wood which it was legal to stain black to mimic ebony. The word became synonymous with this style of dagger. In Scots we still say that someone is 'up to high dudgeon', meaning in a killing mood, which comes from the dagger form.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
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