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owen bush

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Everything posted by owen bush

  1. Ive got my login for posting piccies from Flickr back so will update my progress..lots of picciees and vids taken so lots of stuff to post.....but not for a week or so!!!
  2. I have a hydraulic reduction gear I run off of the same pump as one of my presses. It is the elevation gearing for a naval gun run with a seperate valve block.! I have seen lots of other similar hydralic parts , capstan winch , some hydraulic drives for crane parts or diggers .or you could link a standard hydraulic motor to a reduction box.
  3. I really like the Ken Kitzur power hammers and will build a kit from his parts some time soon, they have a very unique action.
  4. nope, its made from straight low layer laminate.
  5. I have been playing with patterns...I took an iron jewelry class with Janos Gabor Varga earlier this year ( a great class) and it got me thinking about some patterns...a bit of experimentation and a few cockups later this came along! Helter skelter pattern... what do you recon?
  6. This is the latest collaboration sword from myself Petr Florianek . We wanted to make another fantasy sword yet at the same time keeping a firm grip on reality. This a very much a “real” sword but also a dragon slaying hero’s sword! The sword blade takes inspiration from early Saxon blades, marrying that history into Tolkien’s middle earth and the world of the Rohirrim horse lords. The blade was made by myself and the handle and scabbard are Petr’s work. The blade takes inspiration from early Saxon patternwelded blades and has a lenticular section giving it the heft and strength needed when fighting dragons! It is important for me that anything I make has a functional reality to it. A reality based upon the imagined purpose of the object . This is the sword of a mighty horselord hero with the pride and fate of his people behind him. A sword for battling a dragon. Bryneleoma has a patternwelded blade 3 core bars twisted anticlockwise, clockwise and anticlockwise, the core bars are wrapped in a high layer damascus edge . The bold core pattern contrasting the fine layers of the edge. In Petr’s words… I wanted to make a truly heroic sword and when given Owen’s mighty blade, I had enough inspiration to get the feel of it. The blade is hefty and long so I immediately started to picture a mounted warrior; a hero on a horse, a proto knight if you will. The inspiration for this sword is firmly set in Tolkien’s Middle Earth, in the world of the Rohirrim horse lord. The motives for ornamentation are simple – he dragon on the pommel as the most powerful enemy but also a symbol to ward off evil. On the handle a series of knots representing fate being spun by higher beings. The knot on the guard symbolises oath, the oath of the horse lord bound to his people as their protector. An oath from sword to swordsman, the guard of the sword being there to protect its heroic master. I love doing these pieces with Petr, and always look forward to getting the finished piece. He has a way of bringing a blade to life.....
  7. no powder in it its much simpler than that .......
  8. I have been using an 8mm radius as the edge. A parallel cutter works better than a wedge, it’s only the cutting edge doing the work. Material thickness and heat when you cut will have a great deal of influence on the final pattern. I’ve only done it 5 times though! So I’m still at the learning stage!
  9. Thanks Alan. pretty is the idea (and part of the function!). thats the cool part of this , lots of ways of coming out with a different take on stuff...I have a few other ideas brewing at the mo that I hope will be more gobsmacking! things taken from other places applied to standard stuff...we shall see! I also have hit a few dead ends with very promising but ultimately impossible patterns!
  10. I have been playing with feather patterns recently, started up looking at illerup idal blade fern patterns and later evolved to a feather pattern , trying to get a stand alone feather...Its been fun. and has lots of spin offs running in my mind. firy , flamy frondy stuff!
  11. On the single edged swords a lot are one piece....and somthing to remember about the way the pommel and tang are aligned is that the tand does not go into the center of the pummel it is often misaligned so this needs to ke taken itto account this also means the tang is not central to the handle....
  12. Nice, I have a few British and german anvils with gates. I found that hot forging worked well for making tooling fit the slot and for making wedges that fit perfectly. basically heat the bottom of the tooling and sledge it down into the slot . the heat the wedge and upset it to fit the gap. You will have fun with that anvil.
  13. I use between 3 and 10lb of propane a hour for one gas forge depending on the forge . I hget a huge amount of work done with my gig welding forge (that gets through a 47KG bottle a day. when I used coke I used to use a lot more 100kg+ for a heavy days foerge welding. but its half the price so the over all cost is the same. A gas forge can be very eficient if it is made for a single purpose and has doors matche dtoy your work. the more versatile it is the less eficient it is ..
  14. owen bush

    Hack silver

    I would guess its knife or axe and hammer and then a whole lot of haggling!
  15. I make and sell dogs head hammers so I am probably biased and I like to use them. my 3 favorite hammers are all dogs head hammers 2 old saw doctors ones and one of mine. However hammers do not "do" anything for the user....from a completly practicle POV hammers are jsut a lump of metal used to transfer energy into the steel. 2lb is 2lb whether its a dogs head or rounding hammer. The actual diferences are subtle. some hammer shapes such as croos pein or diagonal pein ball pein have obvious diferences between how the hammer head shapes the metal. but when it comes to a flat faced hammer or slightly crowned flat faced hammer then the diferences between a round , squarw or octagonal mflat face are subtle. and its the same with a dogs head. I prefer to use them for blade work, and I am used to them now they can be a little odd to start with. They are not a general use hammer and do not do some of the directional forging that can be done with the corners of a short faced rounding hammer because they become less stable when tilted on their side. however for flattening steel they would be my go to. There is also definatly a little "badging" that goes on with a dogs head hammer being a bladesmiths hammer not a blacksmith hammer...and I am guilty of this as well. I love hand made hammers and use some made by my friends and I love car boot sale hammer heads for 50 Pence as well. some people love only one hammer ...I am not a Hammernogamous guy!
  16. well 6 years on (time really flys) I do almost all of my billet welding in a gas forge without any flux. It is certainly a better process. the dis advantage is some grinding... it takes longer in total time than when folding under the hammer , but is slightly less "work time" if you do not count time hreating. however the welds are certainly better and not using borax is sooooooo much better for my health and forge! the only time I now personally use flux is when teaching hand forge welding or for final welds on multi bar billets...I can do small ones fluxless but use flux when the billet is longer than the forge.... its a great improvement.....big thanks to JD and others who put this out there...
  17. I wish I could make it this year.... But I will most certainly be back.
  18. Well, I have found myself grinding on the edges of my platten to get a smaller contact area on the belt to get more pressure on the belt to remove more material....I enquired about getting 1" belts and making a 1" platten but my supplier cant do that and I'm not sure how sensible putting 10hp through a 1" belt is and Then I thought why not have the platten ground so that there is a smaller contact area in the middle of the belt. I got James Wood who was working here to grind a couple of faces the full length of the platten recessed back about 2mm or so so now I have a faceted plattern 2/3" in the center and 2/3" flats either side the full length top to bottom so I han grind hard left side , hard middle middle orhard right side with minimal contact area anu get the full width of belt used up and hog away. it works very well..finish is not quite as good but its more agressive and allows better use of the 24grit ceramica I use.
  19. I am running a 10hp grinder as fast as the belts will allow hogging on a faceted platten (smaller contact area) but I turn it right down when I get to tips or tricky grinding. get it wrong at full speed and the metal or you will get eaten!
  20. It sure does look that way!
  21. Ill dig some out, I must have 8 or ten of these anvils now.
  22. I would always weld under a power hammer if given the choice. If not available I would buy the material from someone else (it would be cheaper than making it by hand). However I do teach hand welding up a billet for twisting, along side of making damascus ander a power hammer it gives context to the speed of the power hammer... I really would not bother making high layer folded material by hand hammer...I have done it once with a team of 3 people and sledge hammers ....never again. If working by hand there is a limit to the size of stock that is workable. 1" wide by 1" thick would be my limit. I weld up an 8" billet of around 7 to 11 layers (each 2 to 3mm thick). this takes about 20 to 25 minutes with an already hot gas forge.. it then takes me another 1 hour to size the material and twist it and another half an hour or so to forge the material into knife stock. It's all bloody hard work 2 to 2.5 hours bloody hard work against 10 minutes under a power hammer and 10 minutes twisting..... Tips for hand forging billets. weld up your billet in the middle as well as the ends to keep all of the pieces touching and allow capilery action of the Borax between the layers. Heat from the end , if you dump the while billet in the fire the outside layers will bow out and form a gap that is too big for borax to be drawn into, aply borax ahead of the heat (low heat oxidation is probably the biggest problem I see.). My indication for the end of the billet to be at welding temp is that the borax bubbles vigerously and smokes when taken out of the fire... hammder each section with fast overlapping blows, imagine the borax like the dreggs at the end of a tube of toothaste. you need to squeese it all out from one end. I repeat every forging twice. I make sutre that each set of blows overlaps the previous set(s) and progress down the billet in 4 or 5 steps. applying more borax ahead of the hot steel . I pay extra attention to the back end of the billet as its the bit I tend to ignore (most other people as well). when the billet is fully welded I work back down it with more hammer blows ...I then allow the billet to cool off and clean all the edges with agrinder looking for delamination. it should look like one bar of material ...I then forge to square and then round (for me 15mm or so) , twist the bar (at least i full twist per cm of material) and then flatten out. this will give ma enough material for 5 or 6 paring knife blades...like this
  23. just a few comments.... Most of the sheffield cutlers anvils are mounted onto (or into) large stone blocks, traditionaly using rotted horse manure to tamp them in. I have a few cutlers anvils with the tooling slots. ( or toolmakers anvils)and they range in weight from around 150 to 700 lb. Most of these were designed for large scale manufacturing ...so repetativly making the same product 1000"s of times. I have tooled up one of mine and it works just fine... sure many of you have seen it...ive watched it many times a lot to learn from this guy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpeyhC-UIFg
  24. OH wow...I love it..something about the ridiculously made mundane object really does it for me... I thought Howard Clarks damascus potato peeler was awesome but this takes the biscuit.
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