I haven't been around here in quite a while, but saw this and figured I'd chime in. That looks like the baby brother to my Buffalo rolling mill. I have a bit of history on mine. It was bought by a jewelry manufacturer in VA and electrified in ~1947 (Not pictured is the enormous 5HP motor that sits on top of the platform above the gearbox on the right). Following that, it was maybe briefly used and then put into storage until I bought it a few years ago. I found a few stamps that include "13", so I'm guessing it was originally made in 1913.
Mine has a clutch mechanism to disconnect power to the rollers which would be actuated via a large handle that attaches to a shaft at the end of the table by the rolling head (you can see some of the linkage under the table). That handle is broken off on mine and the movement of that clutch assembly is very stiff. I assume that's how the handle got broken. I do intend to fix that eventually so I have a better mechanical power disengagement in the even something wedges. Right now, the "safety" consists of a switch mounted on the rolling head (again, not pictured since I had the motor, etc, removed to move the mill when it was taken) that is connected to a kind of bizarre phase switching matrix that will reverse 2 phases of the motor to shift the rolls into reverse when it's thrown. This is less than ideal, but was at least relatively well thought out. There are buffer coils of some kind that help dissipate the voltage spike when you do this, though I was warned to shut it down before reset since they're only on one side of the switch matrix.
Once I put a new flat belt on it, it does a tremendous amount of work. I usually stop forging stock on the press/hammer at about 1/2"-5/8" thick and just roll from there. I tend to move the adjustment handle 1/4-1/2 turn per pass (depending on stock width), and can usually get 3-4 passes per heat. I seem to recall when I measured the adjustment screw that it was .020" per revolution, but don't quote me on that...
I've been doing fine with the stock rolls, but I've been considering taking the head apart to blueprint the rolls in case I ever need to remake them (or in case I come across a piece of H13 or 4140 big enough to just cut new ones on principal and retire the originals with the original leather belt.
I'd never seen another one like it, so I'm glad to know that there's more out there!