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deker last won the day on January 9 2018

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  1. This is a facepalm moment for me...I can think of some ways to get even smaller gaps and guaranteed clean burnout with resin printing and specific resins....Mind blown, creativity engaged...
  2. John, I haven't been around here in quite a while, but saw this and figured I'd chime in. That looks like the baby brother to my Buffalo rolling mill. I have a bit of history on mine. It was bought by a jewelry manufacturer in VA and electrified in ~1947 (Not pictured is the enormous 5HP motor that sits on top of the platform above the gearbox on the right). Following that, it was maybe briefly used and then put into storage until I bought it a few years ago. I found a few stamps that include "13", so I'm guessing it was originally made in 1913. Mine has a clutch mechanism to disconnect power to the rollers which would be actuated via a large handle that attaches to a shaft at the end of the table by the rolling head (you can see some of the linkage under the table). That handle is broken off on mine and the movement of that clutch assembly is very stiff. I assume that's how the handle got broken. I do intend to fix that eventually so I have a better mechanical power disengagement in the even something wedges. Right now, the "safety" consists of a switch mounted on the rolling head (again, not pictured since I had the motor, etc, removed to move the mill when it was taken) that is connected to a kind of bizarre phase switching matrix that will reverse 2 phases of the motor to shift the rolls into reverse when it's thrown. This is less than ideal, but was at least relatively well thought out. There are buffer coils of some kind that help dissipate the voltage spike when you do this, though I was warned to shut it down before reset since they're only on one side of the switch matrix. Once I put a new flat belt on it, it does a tremendous amount of work. I usually stop forging stock on the press/hammer at about 1/2"-5/8" thick and just roll from there. I tend to move the adjustment handle 1/4-1/2 turn per pass (depending on stock width), and can usually get 3-4 passes per heat. I seem to recall when I measured the adjustment screw that it was .020" per revolution, but don't quote me on that... I've been doing fine with the stock rolls, but I've been considering taking the head apart to blueprint the rolls in case I ever need to remake them (or in case I come across a piece of H13 or 4140 big enough to just cut new ones on principal and retire the originals with the original leather belt. I'd never seen another one like it, so I'm glad to know that there's more out there!
  3. Ok...I guess I'm going to have to start showing up here more often now....This is gonna be a good one!
  4. Cal, I remember seeing that mill years ago. It's a really nice design, and a lot more compact than mine. I had come back here several times trying to find the pictures you posted before and couldn't. Thanks for reposting them, I'm saving them this time for future reference Of course, I practically stole mine, and love the fact that it's giant, and old. The motor is a MASSIVE, old, 5HP 3ph that mounts on the stand on the right (it was off in this picture since I was moving it in). It was originally built in 1913 I think, and was electrified in 1947 by the previous owner (a jewelry factory). They resurfaced the rolls, used it for a couple of months, and then it sat until I got it at auction. One of these days I'd like to build something that will do wider than the 5" or so I can handle now, but that's down the road a ways.
  5. David, I've heard good things about the Black Fox grinders from Bruce Bump. I definitely trust Bruce's opinion on tools. He also worked with the Black Fox folks on the design, so you know it's had input and testing from somebody who knows how a knifemaker uses a grinder.
  6. Bringing this one back from the dead! I realized I hadn't ever gotten to fixing the picture on this thread. It's fixed now. Man, it's been a long time and I've come a long way since this.
  7. Nice score! Whatever you do for a contact wheel will cost more than the machine, but be well worth it. If you need something custom made, or if the parts from the manufacturer are too pricey, call Sunray. I had them do the contact wheel for my surface grinder conversion and they price was less than half of what Contact Rubber Corp. wanted to charge me. The 1100RPM motor seems a bit slow unless it's got a monster drive pulley. Oh, and Alan, if you look at the fact that the Space Saver was intended to replace huge backstand grinders, it IS a lot smaller.
  8. It's just about 2" of blade, and about 4.5" OAL. Just about 2oz without the sheath.
  9. One Twist Damascus "Deker Necker" just waiting for sharpening to be ready to head to it's new home.
  10. Well, if it's any consolation, I think these look a lot nicer than his
  11. If you know an outfit that would make them, I can make the steel! :)
  12. There will be at some point, but it will be a ways out. I can't give out any details just yet.
  13. The current plan is for a single production run set up like this one, so they will all be random for the frame, etched deeply and blued, and twist for the slide etched not quite as deep and left "au naturale"
  14. Thanks! As far as I know it's the standard design M1911, so it's got the thumb safety, the grip safety, and an internal disconnector.
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