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Everything posted by deker

  1. The motivation behind Screwcifer is a 2HP motor spinning a large triple reduction gear reducer. It's built to twist up to 3" square and still have a reasonable safety margin. So far I haven't worried about cooling the ends, though I may with this billet since I may take the ends to 2" square to save a little on waste and keep me from having to build another set of dies right now. It depends a bit on what bits of steel I find around the shop tomorrow that I can hack a tailstock die together from. Here's a video of the second twist I did with it. First was 1" square, this was 2".
  2. This size is half of the contract, I've got another that finishes to ~15lbs ea that I need to do 50 of as well. In all reality, it will be 6-12 months of work. One piece is random, the other is a twist (but I'm randoming the stock some before twisting to make it a little more interesting).
  3. So, I have a really large pattern welding contract coming up, and I'm working on the final prototype pieces. This set a new record for me today, so I figured sharing would be as good as excuse as any to return to one of the forums that I've neglected for way too long. I can't say what the end product is yet, but trust me, as soon as I can, I will. Today's work was a billet of 1045/1075/15n20. Just a wee tiny thing, it started at 2"x4-3/4"x10" (about 30lbs). This is to date the largest billet I've ever done, and provided that everything works out, I'll only have to do somewhere between 25 and 50 more of them! After the first weld/draw it was down to 3"x1-1/2"x~21" usable That was cut, ground, and re-stacked by 3 for 75 layers and drawn to 2-1/4"x2-3/4"x~13" usable Tomorrow I'll cut, grind, and re-stack this by 2 once more for 150 layers. Then, it will get drawn to 2-1/2" square and get the living bejeezus twisted out of it on the twisting machine I finished building not long ago, dubbed "Screwcifer". Here's a little video of the first "real" test twisting a 2" square billet. screwcifer_first_twist_2_inch.lrv I'm gonna go find some Advil....
  4. "Basket Case" Pattern Welded BIllet - .105"x1.625"x11" $140 Stock #: 20181017-BasketCase1 This is a .105"x1.625"x11" billet of 1084/15n20/Ni steel my "Basket Case" pattern. The Ni alloy sheet in this begins at .0032" thick and is only microns thick after forging, so should not affect blade edges at all.
  5. "Spots and Stripes" Pattern Welded BIllet - .125"x2.25"x12.5" $175 Stock #: 20181017-SpotsAndStripes1 This is a .125"x2.25"x12.5" billet of 1095/15n20 steel in my new "Spots & Stripes" pattern. This steel has 9 alternating layers of the random "Spots" and the bold "Stripes" and should be very interesting when ground.
  6. "Pseudorandom" Pattern Welded Billet - .170"x1.25"x10.5" $115 Stock #: 20181017-Random2 This is a .170"x1.25"x10.5" billet of 1084/15n20 steel in a "Pseudorandom" pattern.
  7. "Spots & Stripes" Pattern Welded Billet - .125"x2.25"x12.5" $175 Stock #: 20181017-SpotsAndStripes2 This is a .125"x2.25"x12.5" billet of 1095/15n20 steel in my new "Spots & Stripes" pattern. This pattern has 9 alternating layers of the "Spots" and "Stripes" and should be very interesting when ground.
  8. Bold Twist Pattern Welded Billet - .170"x1.25"x11" $115 Stock #: 20181017-BoldTwist1 This is a .170"x1.25"x11" billet of 1084/15n20 steel in a Bold twist pattern.
  9. Hey all, I know I haven't been around in a while, but it's been crazy here in Dekerville as the shop has been undergoing MASSIVE changes. Change isn't free though, and so I have a bunch of barstock here available for sale. There will be more coming, and I'm also always up for custom orders if you need something special. My shop capabilities have changed dramatically, and so I can now work much larger stock than before, and am doing surface grinding in house now. Feel free to call on me for large projects as I can handle billets up to ~30lbs now. All of my steel comes to you normalized, annealed, and precision ground unless otherwise noted. Note that the etch on this piece is simply to show an idea of the pattern. Contrast should be more pronounced after heat treatment and finishing. Shipping is via USPS flat rate box, and I'm happy to combine multiple orders into one shipment. You pay the shipping, I'll pay the insurance. On to the show! I'll add additional posts to this thread for each available piece. "Pseudorandom" Pattern Welded Steel Billet - .190"x1.25"x14" SOLD! Stock #: 20181017-Random1 This is a .190"x1.25"x14" billet of 1084/15n20 steel in a "Pseudorandom" pattern.
  10. Still waiting on the metalwork to be completed, but that's no reason to not work on the new forge! Yesterday I began casting the floor. The design calls for the floor to be cast on a separate plate that will simply sit in an angle iron frame. The floor will be composed of about 3/4" of Mizzou castable for the bottom layer (I already had it sitting around) and topped with 1/4-1/2" of Greencast 94. I had originally intended to lay hard firebrick for the base and cast a layer of Greencast on top of that, but then I had a couple of realizations/discoveries. First off, I'd have no good way to hold the brick in place so it wouldn't slide off the plate when moved. Second, Mizzou, and Greencast, and probably every other castable, has a 1 year shelf life. I was already past that on the Mizzou, so it was time to use it. So, today I prepped the plate and cast the floor. I wanted to make sure that the refractory would have something to grab onto, so first I laid out a grid on the plate (hooray for Dykem in a spray can!). Then I drilled 16 evenly spaced 1/4" holes in the plate and filled them with 1" long 1/4-20 bolts. After that, I screwed nuts onto the bolts, but only until they were fully engaged. The thought is that this will give the castable something to hold onto, but when it's time to re-cast the floor I'm hoping I can just unthread the bolts from underneath and pop the old casting off. We'll see how that goes I set the prepped plate on top of s couple of garbage bags and folded the extra in before building a casting form out of 2x4s. Then, the bag ends were flipped back up and secured with tape to the form so they wouldn't sag. After that, I mixed up the Mizzou to cast. 50lbs calls for 5 pints (80oz) of water. That equates to 2 Gatorades and a smidgen less than 1 bottle of water. Mix well and cast. It's not something that "pours". According to the Harbison Walker sales rep, if you make a small ball of the castable in your hand and toss it up in the air about a foot; if it falls apart it's too dry, if it runs through your fingers when you catch it, it's too wet. It doesn't seem like enough water, but I followed the instructions. Now it's covered with a damp towel to cure for 24-36 hours. Not sure if I have to fire the Mizzou before I add the Greencast or not, I'll have to email HW and see.
  11. Oh, in addition, out of curiosity I called a local industrial process company and chatted with them this morning. they make thermocouples in house, so I asked if they could provide me anything like the Omegaclad XL. They said the the Omegclad XL is the only thing available that's similar to "Haynes alloy" which was the best stuff available..until Haynes went out of business, but the patents are still being held by somebody or somesuch. The closest he could do was an Inconel 601 sheathed probe, which he admitted wouldn't last in a forge environment near as well as the Omega probe, and is more expensive.
  12. Owen, I usually just go to the "Probe Configurator" and make the choices I want for a product, then it spits out a part number. So, for example, a 12" long, type K, quick connect, 3/16" diameter (I wouldn't go less than 3/16, they're a little more stable in readings and hold up better), ungrounded junction (a little slower to respond, but less susceptible to electrical interference), with an Omegaclad XL sheath is PN KQXL-316U-12 and is $37US
  13. Owen, there is only one thermocouple brand I will use, and only one cladding from them I'll ever buy. Order from Omega, and get a probe with their "Super Omegaclad XL" sheath. I have one that was used for almost 10 years and always almost at welding temps before it was retired. It was retired because the connector was just too abused. Probe itself is just fine. I'll be tracking my fuel consumption reasonably well. I'll let you know how it goes.
  14. I personally go for the bandanna in hot weather, or my old and well worn wool packer hat in the cold months. All those folks with hair have no clue how much it protects them from.
  15. Here's a short video demonstrating the proof-of-air safety system I described for my new forge. I made a few tweaks to the circuit diagram to provide power for 2 indicator lights (red = main power on, green = safety system active and working), as well as to provide power to my PID/thermocouple (that will eventually be 4 or 5 displays to give me temps for all 4 corners of the forge and maybe ambient temperature). I also wired everything up so that the pressure switch, solenoid valve, blower, and PIDs are all connected via standard power plugs in another box ganged onto the back of the switch box to keep everything clean and modular in case any component needs to be swapped in the future.
  16. Burn baby burn!!! Since ribbon burners are a forced air setup, a blower is required. However, unlike more simple tube blown burners, they require higher pressure in the airflow to operate properly. For the Pine Ridge "LP" (low pressure) series, that's a minimum of about 1" WC (water column) of static manifold pressure (28" WC = 16 ounces = 1 psi). I have a blower I got from Doug Seward a while ago that I had planned to use for a dust collection setup, so I had to figure out if it would provide enough pressure. To do that I built a very simple manometer from some 1/4" tubing and some pale green Gatorade (I didn't have food coloring handy to dye water, and I had Gatorade in the shop with me...). Then I hooked up an output to the blower with a 1/4" barb fitting attached to the tube to sample the pressure. The video below shows a (somewhat difficult to see) column of water being displaced by the air pressure in the sample tube once I put a restriction (my hand) in front of the blower output. The pressure in WC is the measurement of distance between the high and low sides of the water. In my case it was about 6-1/2" WC, which is plenty. More pressure doesn't hurt with a ribbon burner. So, armed with the knowledge that my burner is probably overkill, I set off on getting the safety system together. For this I just used the setup described on the Pine Ridge Burners site FAQ (under the "Should I install a Safety System?" section). It consists of an adjustable pressure switch that has the high pressure side connected to the manifold sample tube, and the low pressure side left open to the atmosphere. When properly wired, that switch will stay closed when there is pressure and allow for current to flow to the other important part, which is a normally closed solenoid operated valve that will be plumbed into the gas line. I'm using a Cleveland Controls AFS-222 pressure switch which is adjustable from 0-12" WC. I picked this up for about $25-30 after some time scouring the Internet for deals. For the solenoid valve, I had to do a bit of research. I knew that I wanted an Asco "Red Hat" valve. Asco has pretty much been THE name in solenoid valves for decades, and with good reason. They're reliable, built like tanks, and sadly pretty expensive. After lots of searching and cross referencing of Asco manuals, I found one that would suit my needs. With the solenoid valve you have to be kind of careful about specs. You need to find a "low pressure" valve (mine is good from 0psi-15psi). If you don't get a low pressure valve, it may require a minimum of 5psi in the line in order to properly open when the solenoid is energized. The valve I settled on is about $135-145 new, but I was able to find a NOS valve for about $65 after some deal hunting. Since building codes dictate how much pressure can be carried into a building from a propane tank, and I want to stay withing established safe procedures, I plan to run at much lower pressure than that. In fact, if it's a residence, the limit is 11" WC (.5psi). However, you can trade pressure for volume, so I had the propane company install a 5/8" line from the tank into the shop. This brings up a whole interesting topic of how much heat you need for your forge, as measured in BTUs. This gets pretty complicated. You need to know how many BTUs/hour your burner is capable of putting out (which I didn't have to learn how to figure out since I could ask the good folks at Pine Ridge Burners), and then you have to size the line appropriately to carry enough fuel to feed the burner. The type of pipe, size of pipe, energy density of the fuel, pressure, and other factors come into play to do this sizing. In my case, I knew that I could easily expect 200,000 BTU/hour from the burner without pushing it. So, I had the propane guy consult the magic charts and I sized everything appropriately to provide somewhere north of 800,000 BTU/hour into the shop (had to estimate based on intended pressure since the standard tables are only for certain pressures) and about 500,000 BTU to this forge. I'd rather have too much than not enough since I can always reduce the flow of gas with a ball or needle valve. Great, so now I had the big parts together and needed to figure out the wiring. I just followed the wiring diagram from the Pine Ridge site to set up a quick test rig (nope, no pictures. It was ugly. I'll post pictures of the nice wiring later). The basic premise is that power is applied to the pressure switch and the blower simultaneously when a momentary switch is pressed. This lets pressure come up, which then causes the pressure switch to close and keep the solenoid valve and the blower running after the momentary switch is released. If the power goes out, or something goes wrong with the blower, the pressure switch opens, which shuts off power to the solenoid valve, which springs back to it's "normally closed" state and cuts off the flow of gas. So, I never have to worry about power going out and causing a nasty backfire into the manifold/blower, or something accidentally getting left open and creating a blevy of propane in the shop. All good things I think.
  17. On to the burner. For a forge this large, there are only two efficient ways I know of to heat it. First is diesel fired using a Beckett style burner from an oil furnace. These work really well, and make some of the most ridiculous heat I've ever seen in a forge, and they're REALLY efficient at between .85-1.25 gal/hour of offroad diesel or #2 heating oil. I have several friends who run these and have used them myself several times. I even have the remnants of a failed attempt at one from some number of years ago (I got the combustion chamber geometry all wrong...). However, the best way to set one of these up is with a combustion chamber below that opens into a working chamber above. Usually it's a 10-12" round interior combustion chamber 14-16" high and then a frame above that where firebrick is arranged into a working chamber that you can modify. They are also pretty darned safe since if there's a power outage, air and fuel delivery just stop, and you can repurpose a "fire eye" system from a heater to shut off if combustion stops. However, this design had three problems for me. 1) The "pile of brick" chamber isn't compatible with my desire for something robust and safe. That could be fixed by designing a wool and refractory chamber, so isn't insurmountable. 2) The open chamber underneath means no forge floor under the best heat zone. Usually not an issue because you can hang a billet welded to a handle in the void over the combustion chamber and all will be well. In my particular case, I'll be working some large (20+lb) billets and was concerned about the weight of the billets pulling them down into the chamber and raising the handles up, which would mean a finicky work rest that keeps handles from rising instead of just propping them up. Also, with the size of these billets, it's entirely probably that even using 1" solid square for handles that they weight of the billet would cause the handles to sag. I thought about adding a heavy stainless grate above the combustion chamber for a "floor", but I've watched these forges literally melt steel and a grate made of 1/4" stainless is pretty expensive for a "wear part". 3) I failed at one of these once already. I don't have time to be fidgeting too much with an untested forge design as I have a production project coming up. Second option is a ribbon burner. I opted to go with that. It's also very nice that there are lots of people with decades of experience using ribbon burners in glass furnaces, etc. so there was an excellent base of knowledge and research to draw from as far as burner sizing and the like went. I'm using a Pine Ridge Burners LP-390 (10"x4") ribbon burner (https://www.pineridgeburner.com/). This post is getting a bit long, so I'll detail the blower and safety system setup in another post. But, here are a few pictures of the LP-390 burner from Pine Ridge. It's really very well made (e.g. has stainless tubes pressed into a plate for the outlet holes that are then cast into the refractory nozzle, etc.). It's a 10"x4" burner and weighs about 30lbs.
  18. So, here's a little info about my upcoming forge build. I have an order coming into the shop that is going to require doing some large Damascus forgings, and a lot of them. While I put together a temporary forge that was large enough to do the test pieces, it was inefficient, put off WAY too much radiant heat, and was frankly a little dangerous to use (falling hot firebrick is not fun...). Given that the work will support the expense, I've been doing some retooling around the shop in preparation. It's time for the forge. So, here were my rough requirements: Chamber deep enough to easily handle 16-18" long pieces Chamber high enough to deal with billets up to 6-8" tall (not strictly needed for THIS job, but there are some things I want to play with that will require stuff that tall) Chamber wide enough to support multiple billets up to 5" wide simultaneously As efficient as possible A proper door to close off the front of the forge to avoid any more sunburn or scorched hair on my arms Door should be able to be operated without having to reach across dragon's breath, grab hot stuff, etc. Dragon's breath should have someplace to exhaust except out the front so my billet handles don't get blazing hot and eat up welding gloves too quickly Easily adjustable to maintain proper reducing atmosphere Safe, safe, safe As durable as possible (flux resistance in the floor since I will need to use flux for this welding based on some picky alloying elements in the steel being used, etc.) I have friends who are architectural 'smiths and borrowed heavily from some of their designs and experiences in my design, but was able to simplify some things because I don't need to heat really oddly shaped sections, etc. Lots of research has led to the following set of intended features: Interior chamber size of ~ 10"Hx12"Wx24"D Use of a ribbon burner (an LP-390 from Pine Ridge Burners. It's 10"x4-1/2"...it's massive!) Chamber floor cast from Mizzou (since I have a bag sitting here that's prpbably expired and needs to be used) with a 1/2" of Greebcast-94 refractory on top. The floor will be cast on a relatively easily removable plate so that a spare can be at the ready of needed Removable chamber top, lined with 4" thick Inswool-HTZ, coated with Greencast-94, and with the burner centered in the top Foot-treadle operated door that will raise vertically. A proof-of-air safety system that will shut off the propane automatically in the event of power failure or blower failure. Good temperature monitoring (4 corners) Possibility of adding electric ignition in the future Possibility of adding automated temperature control in the future I think that's about it. So, to start things off, here are some of the more interesting parts drawings I took to my friends at Riley Welding & Fabricating who always do awesome work and take really good care of me. I'm happy to answer questions, and I'll be posting more details of how I intend to get the various features included. Note that the chamber top will have a rear plate welded on and a 4" flange welded around the front to help support the wool.
  19. Brian, The one thing I see in the video that worries me is the severe flex/racking. Par of it is likely due to the uprights simply not being beefy enough, part of it is likely due to a lack of cylinder sync, and I'm betting part of it is due to the UHMW bearing blocks compressing some. Also, if you plan to use combo dies like that, being off-center with the work piece isn't helping any. You might want to consider either metal-on-metal with grease for the bearing surfaces, or at least using MUCH thinner UHMW. -d
  20. I used JBWeld to close up some pinholes in shoddy welds on the old headers on my Firebird years ago. Lasted for a number of years right at the header flange. Don't know what that tells you for this application, but it does hold up to heat well...
  21. Hrmmm...Is your wheel solid or serrated tire? This is a 90 durometer wheel ( the hardest that Sunray can make) and it would sit and keep grinding for several passes (don't know how many, lost count) after a single large downward feed and the wheel is definitely following the countour of a piece a bit (a few thou). I'm guessing that has to do with wheel flex due to the serrations. There may be a solid wheel in the future, but for my immediate needs this should do fine.
  22. Out of curiosity Salem, when you're pulling .020" in a pass, is it actually TAKING .020"? For example, if you do a heavy pass, don't adjust the Z, and send it on another pass (or 20), does it ever actually stop cutting? If heat becomes an issue I'll decide if I want to resurrect the coolant system or not. Thanks for the pointer to the coolant though, I may look into it for the bandsaw. I'm currently running the old fashioned soluble oil mixed with distilled water and RV antifreeze and I'm sure it will start to get funky here soon with summer on the way...
  23. I would say that it's likely to leave you sad. The thing about canister welding is that there is ALWAYS some open space between material no matter how tightly you pack it. You need to be able to compress the material inside the canister to get it to weld up. A cast refractory would crack and fall apart as soon as you hit it and likely spill yellow hot powder all over you...I'd stick with steel.
  24. I'll admit that I got lucky, but only a bit. If you have space and want to deal with the rigging, big machinery can usually be found cheap because nobody wants to move it...
  25. I'm debating coolant Alan. I have the old (38 gallon!) reservior and pump. They would need EXTENSIVE cleaning and rust remediation before I could use them. The one thing I can say is that unless there is a modern coolant that has MAJOR corrosion inhibitors, is stable for long times without me having to test Ph, keep up with anti-fungal treatments, etc. I'm not terribly interested. I spent 2 days just to remove the old wheel guard because of corrosion, and probably removed 15lbs of a concretion of rust and funk from the tray. I don't want to sign up for that again. I also may have some rust holes to fix in the tray after removing the gunk that was holding some of it together. I know I have a small hydraulic oil leak, and I know the hoses should be replaced, but I'm trying to decipher if I have to remove the saddle to do that. If I do, I'll just feed it oil on occasion and put a couple of catch trays down until I can afford to have it down. When the next big project for the shop kicks off, I'll need this machine running 3 or 4 days a week for about a year..
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