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Everything posted by deker

  1. Here's a short video of the grinder in action. SurfaceGrinder1.webm
  2. So, armed with a reasonable idea of what this thing would look like, I got some design files together and visited my local welding and fab shop to have them cut the major pieces for me on their CNC plasma table. While waiting for those parts, I started ordering tracking and idler wheels, and figuring out some of the finer points such as belt tensioning. I had seen a video online somewhere where a guy tested different amounts of belt tension and how they affected belt tracking. I can't find the video right now, but the long and short of it was that at about 30lbs of belt tension, things track nice and stable. So, I googled around for a calculator that would give me force calculations based on simple levers, since the tracking arm is just a simple lever. With the spring hooking to the short end of the arm (so that the arm wouldn't hit the height adjustment setup on the grinder), it looked like I needed about 70lbs of pull to get 30lbs of force on the tracking wheel end. After a bit of searching, I found these springs on Amazon (the price has quadrupled since I ordered them...weird). Just about 70lbs of pull and with loops large enough to fit around the 1/2-13 bolt wrapped in a spacer on the lower half of the upright. I wasn't sure how much space I'd need to take up, so I originally ordered a stainless turnbuckle as well to allow for some spring adjustment. Turns out it wasn't needed. I ordered some smaller 50lb springs so I'd have options (shown in the picture below, which was taken before the 70lb springs showed up). I also had 2 versions of the lower part of the tracking hinge cut since I wasn't sure if I'd want a handle extension to give me some extra leverage for changing belts. Here's the first look at the "kit" The spacer at the bottom center needed to be 1-1/2" thick, so I had it cut from 1-1/2" plate. The upright was cut from 5/8", as were the tracking hinge parts, and the tracking arm is 1-1/2" square solid. I figure that mass reduced vibration, which would reduce belt wobble and give me a better finish. The first spacer didn't work out well due to the taper from the plasma cutting. After cleaning it up enough to slide nicely onto the spindle housing, it ended up sitting REALLY crooked. So, I had 2 spacers cut from 3/4" instead, which had a significantly reduced taper and I was able to clean up and get a nice, snug, straight fit onto the spindle housing. Here's the first test fit-up after a lot of time spent drilling and aligning holes... But, what about a contact wheel? Unfortunately, because of the fact that this machine was built to run 12"x1" wheels with a 3" bore, there was simply no "stock" wheel anywhere that would work. So, I set about figuring out what I'd need in a contact wheel. After talking with some friends who have done conversions, it seemed that an 8" diameter wheel was pretty popular because it was a reasonable tradeoff of price vs. performance. Then I decided to do a little more research. Knowing that for the bulk of the work this grinder will do, I'll be using ceramic belts, I figured I'd see what speeds those belts are designed for. I mean, we've all heard how ceramics are designed to be run harder and faster, but how many of you have ever looked up the specs? Well, I couldn't find a whole lot of specs, but I did find what I was looking for on a spec sheet for Norton Blaze belts. They are designed to run between 5000 and 7000 SFPM, with a preferred speed of 6000 SFPM. Ok, fine. Looking at the specs for my grinder, I noted that with a 1750RPM spindle an a 12" wheel, that works out to just around 5500 SFPM. An 8" wheel worked out to about 3663 SFPM ( ((8 inch diameter * 3.14) * 1750RPM) / 12 inches in a foot = 3663.666 SFPM). Once I realized that, an 8" wheel was right out. I figure that there is a reason that industry comes up with the numbers they do for their products, and I should try to follow their recommendations seeing as how they were kind enough to spend millions of dollars on R&D for me. This of course meant a big, custom wheel. I called Contact Rubber Corp. and after a very protracted set of communications, got a quote for just shy of $1000 for the wheel I needed with a 5-6 week lead time. As it turns out, the 3" bore is too large for their standard 12" casting, so it would have to be custom machined from a billet. Ouch. Next I checked Sunray. Wow, they made it REALLY easy. I actually uploaded my 3D model on Friday night and had a price quote for my wheel by noon on Monday. And the quote was for a little under $400 for a 12" serrated, 90 durometer wheel, with my custom machined center section, and with only a 3 week lead time. Needless to say that was a no-brainer. After waiting impatiently for a few weeks, I got my fancy new contact wheel. (Sorry the pictures are crappy, I didn't realize how bad they were and then it was mounted on the machine, so....) I didn't waste the entirely of that 3 weeks though. I got the rest of everything together, and even got fancy and painted it to match the machine. Once the contact wheel was installed, then I did some final measurements and made up some spacers for behind the idler and tracking wheels out of some 1/2" black iron pipe I had handy, and voila! I've got a short video of it in action that I'll see if I can upload shortly.
  3. So it just occurred to me that I haven't been around here much, but that a LOT is happening around my shop and that I can more easily share what I've been working on in more detail here than on FB. In order to support a big job coming into the shop, I recently acquired a monster of a surface grinder. As best as I can tell it was built somewhere between 1959 and 1965, not far from me here in Central PA. As you can see it's not exactly a small machine and weighs in at about 5000lbs. After getting it home and with a bit of help from a friend who is better with a forklift than I am, we managed to get it situated in the shop. At some point it was re-wired to run on 460V 3phase, and I had intended to just swap all the wiring back, but the spindle motor tag has ZERO information that I could find on the wiring. Thankfully I got a 230V/460V transformer along with the grinder. It has a 12"x18" electromagnetic chuck with a really nice control setup. Here's the part where you can all start to hate me...The grinder, with coolant reservoir and pump, and the transformer cost me $600. Of course, the forklift and trailer rental added a few hundred more $$ to that, but it was still a screaming good deal on a nice, older machine. So, for my needs being able to run a 2"x72" belt on this machine was pretty much required. So, I started looking around the Internet at other folks' grinder conversions and mashed some of them together and mix in a liberal helping of stuff specific to this machine. First thing first, I had to get the wheel and guard off so that I could get dimensions and figure out mounting. I'll skip the gory details, but suffice it to say that getting the wheel and guard off took 2 whole days because the machine had been primarily used with flood coolant and the guard had rusted onto the spindle casing. After lots of work, some choice language, and a good bit of cleanup, here's what I was presented with while looking head on at the spindle. I got pretty lucky with this grinder that it 1) Has a pretty beefy spindle housing, and 2) has 3 3/8-16 tapped holes available to help hold things. This means that I didn't have to do one thing that I was a bit afraid of, which was to hold the conversion via a clamp on the spindle housing. So, the first step was to VERY roughly mock something up just to get an idea for geometry and how much space I had to work with before I'd start running into other parts of the machine. One trip to the scrap pile, and some pretty terrible fastening of bits and pieces, and I had a rough idea for geometry. Then I took a look at the spindle housing in profile to determine what I had to work with to get tracking and idler wheels to line up with the contact wheel. Again, because the machine is so darned big, I had plenty of room to work with and even had to space things away from the mounting holes by quite a bit. Armed with a pile of measurements, I spent WAY too many hours in front of a computer building 3D models to get everything designed ahead of time and settled as far as dimensions went. The pictures below show the first version of the design. It would have worked just fine, but it's a big machine, and I'm short, so I decided to reduce the overall height and extend the tracking wheel arm so that I could easily reach it to change belts and adjust tracking. The bottom picture shows the comparison of before and after the "squishing". More in the next post...
  4. Well, for one thing it looks like the eBay ones are 3/16" square by 12" long which is quite a bit different than the 1/2" wide strips from McMaster.
  5. Sadly the axe on this project died an untimely death when I was folding over to weld and the wrought tore on me...The pieces have been reforged and will like on in some San Mai pieces, and I'll start again for an axe at some point in the future.
  6. For an Iron Kiss (and a small one like this), a 4" slab should be fine. Mine is 6" 4KPSI fiber fill. I just need to pick the hammer up about an inch and slide a piece of plywood under it. The plywood will bed into the concrete a bit and keep the hammer from walking. I can't say the same for my 125lb Bull Hammer. The floor can handle it just fine, but the lack of anvil weight means that this hammer likes to wiggle its way across the floor, even after I added an extra 530# of foot plate and set it on plywood as I would an Iron Kiss. I need to find a way to "corral" the plywood a bit to keep it from scooting. Yes, I can bolt it to the floor, but I want to work with the new shop layout a bit first before I lock myself in.
  7. Well, one way or another I'm rearranging the heavy forging machinery today. I will have a forklift this time though, so I have that going for me. Here's the reason why. This is just after unloading last night. I think I have a reasonable forging layout drawn up. I'm not bolting anything to the floor until I try it out for a while though. I'll post some pictures and sketches after I get the work done... -d
  8. So, just go for the bigger one...Less per lb is good right?
  9. Also, I forgot to mention that I don't really have any good organization for tooling in the forging area. I need to work on that as well. I really need to have some better storage than the floor next to the press for my press dies (especially since I anticipate making more) as well as top/bottom die sets for the power hammers since I play to start making more dies for some projects. I don't have walls up inside the shop yet. That will come in spring when I finally bring in proper electric. Once I have interior wiring done, then I'll insulate and put up wallboard, run permanent air lines, etc. I also plan at that point to move the compressor into a shed attached to the back of the shop to save space and noise. I'm also contemplating moving the hydraulic tank and pump out into a shed for the same reasons. Any input on running hard hydraulic lines for something like that?
  10. So, I've had a lot of new gear come into the shop over the past couple of years, and since it's about to happen again, I'm going to have to reorganize the shop to make way for another power hammer (A NOS Iron Kiss 50#...Seriously, it was delivered a few years ago and never even hooked up...). So, I'd like to get some input from folks who have more experience than I do in how to best set up the forging area of the shop. Here's the general shop info breakdown: - 30'x36' pole barn with 12' eaves - 10'x10' garage door at the front left of the shop with a man door just to the right - 4000PSI fiber-filled slab on grade concrete floor Currently, the forging area is in the back left corner of the shop (straight in from the garage door) and is about 12'x12'. The right side of the shop is being used for storage and machine tools. The eventual plan is to wall off the right side of the shop for a cold-work room and my office. What I';m trying to figure out is a good way to arrange the following forging equipment to allow me a good working rhythm: - 2 forges - 335lb Euroanvil - Post vise - Hydraulic press - 125# Bull Hammer - 50# Iron Kiss Hammer - Small fly press (about a 28" square footprint) - Maybe a second anvil (275# Fisher is the likely candidate) - Twisting machine (to be built, but I want to have a plan for it) - Someday a rolling mill - My 30# Kerrihard hammer (after I tear it down and rebuild it) I can extend things a bit if I relocate my compressor, kilns, and grinder, which I'll probably have to do. What I'm trying to get is some ideas of a good working layout for the set of forging tools I have or anticipate in the somewhat near future so that I don't have to do the heavy equipment re-arranging again for a while. I'm also contemplating building a small jib crane for the forging area because I'd like to be able to work larger/heavier material without it wearing me down so much. Any info or experiences on what makes a good working layout are appreciated. -d
  11. Fantastic work on the hammer Josh! Glad to see another one saved and in a loving home.
  12. When I have to do stuff like this, I mask the handle slabs off with nail polish and just dunk the whole thing. After the etch, acetone takes the nail polish right off. If it's a material that might stain from a colored polish, use clear nail polish. Where I can I use something that has a color so I can see when I've removed it all.
  13. Renaissance Wax has always worked very well for me. I'll re-apply once a year or so if I remember.
  14. Awesome! I've been waiting for updates on this project.
  15. Congrats Justin! A well deserved reward for your efforts!
  16. Wow Jim, that's just awful. Thanks for the precautionary tale though...Now I have yet another plant to fear... I was looking forward to seeing you again, but your health is by far more important. Take care and heal well!
  17. Glad to hear you'll be making it this year Matt! I was going to call this evening and ask, now I have to find something else to mess with you about! :-D
  18. I'm officially registered and plan to be there. Like everybody else I'm praying to the forge gods that I'll have something interesting to show when I get there... I'm really bummed that Dave and Chris won't be able to make it. You will both definitely be missed. Many toasts to you will be shared by us all! I'm a crap photographer, but I'll try to remember to bring my good camera and snap as many photos as possible in the hopes that I'll capture something worthwhile for you guys.
  19. Awesome work Roman. You're making me want to try some pattern welding with crazy steels again....I may have to break down and do it...
  20. Very nice Jim....very nice indeed...
  21. Got back to a bit of work on this today. Time to let the cat out of the bag. Robert has been working on a bad-ass knife (hopefully he'll stop in and give us an update) and I needed to get a drift made for the matching woods axe. So, I forged this one today out of 1.5" round 5150. I used the press to do some of the (very) rough tapering, but it was mostly hand forging due to the front-to-back taper...a lot of hand forging... Here's a picture of the new drift next to the billet that will be the axe body.
  22. Now available for sale is a Turkish Twist pattern Gent's Knife. This knife is made from 1084 and 15n20 high-carbon steels, forged by me. The inset handle scales are of fossilized Mammoth Ivory. Note that while screws were used on this piece for aesthetics, is it not a take-down construction. Comes with a custom wet-formed sheath and lanyard by Brett Smith of T-STAR Leather that make for a very slim and elegant package. The lanyard is not currently attached so that the new owner can set it to their preferred length. My apologies for the poor quality of the pictures, I'm a good knife maker and a poor photographer. Price is $750 delivered within the United States, international shipping will be extra. Message me if you would like to own this beauty!
  23. Very nicely done Mick! If you don't mind me asking, how many twists per inch did you do on the stock?
  24. Beautiful! Love the pattern.
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