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Everything posted by deker

  1. Out of curiosity, has anybody here used a Lovejoy coupler to do this?
  2. Gotta say that I disagree gentlemen. I really like the "nothing but clean" look. Also, no visible fasteners make take a second to notice, but one you do, the whole "How does that work?!" factor makes it stand out for me.
  3. As promised, here's a look at the finished billet: All forged out A quick grind and etch of a window A closeup Another closeup with a flash to bring out more detail. Weird how the flash sort of inverts the colors... There's more fun inside! This end cut shows the difference between the two wrought iron pieces that were used. I made sure to alternate them in the final stacking to add some visual interest to the final pattern. Stay tuned for our next episode, where I'll start actually forging more than barstock!
  4. So, over the weekend I forged out a billet identical to the first (so I skipped taking pictures of that...). Today I took the two billets and combined them into one larger one. I only got a few photos though since my cellphone battery died on me...So, all the secrets of making a random pattern are still mine! I had to fire up the temporary "big" forge since the final layup was just a little too tall for my normal forge. All prepped and ready to get welded. With the added 9 layers of nickel in this layup this yields 99 layers. this left my brain to come up with a lot of song references while I was working on this. I still have "99 Luft Baloons" stuck in my head... Gettin' hot in here... Then my battery died.... The final billet is 3/4"x2-1/4"x12". There was a surprising amount of material loss putting this billet together. It started as 1 piece of 1/2"x3"x11" wrought and then I added a piece of 3/4"x2"x10". Sure, there was a bit of grinding things clean, but no more than usual. Lots of scale generated by the wrought though. I'm just not used to this much material loss on something as (relatively) simple as a random pattern... I'll post a picture or two of the completed billet tomorrow. Next step is to start making it into something...
  5. This makes me want to buy a grinder that I didn't make. Not that mine is bad mind you, and I run it at ludicrous speed, but losing some of the funny noises would be nice....
  6. Thank you Jim! You just gave me the easy solution to making fly press dies that I've been looking for!
  7. I dig it! It's really nice to see an interpretation of a Bowie-ish knife that has some curves.
  8. Beautiful work! So many thoughts my brain is vapor locking. Will this one be around at see at Ashokan or does it have a home?
  9. Well, technically speaking there's no steel here yet....
  10. Me too! I'll give one hint. I realized today that I may need more mass, so I'll be welding up another billet just like this one so I can combine the two!
  11. Got another little bit of time in the shop and kept going on this one. Can you guess what it's going to be yet? 5 layers of wrought iron with 4 layers of really thin, shiny stuff...Is that NICKEL? Stacked and ready to go into the forge I just love taking pictures of the forge.... Squished and welded From every blade a little scale must fall...(or, my attempt at being artsy ) Forged out to 2"x17"x3/8" Welds look pretty good, but the flash makes the colors look backwards Bad picture, but more realistic colors
  12. So, Robert and I met recently and as always happens when bladesmiths get together, ideas started flying. So, we're working on a collaboration project. After a little planning, I got started today. So, we figure that we'll share with folks here as it progresses. To keep it a little fun though, I'm starting the work in progress thread without telling you all what we're making. I think it will be kind of fun. Starting with a big hunk of wrought from my special stash. I bought this quite a while ago from Karl B. Anderson. I started with one of the pieces on the left. 3"x1/2"x11". Look at that wrought goodness! Into the forge! Look at the strings of slaggy goodness as it gets forged down.... 3"x1/2"x11" becomes 2"x3/8"x22" All cleaned up and shiny! Bet you can't guess what's coming next! That's all for today. I have to get a refill on the propane bottle.
  13. You know, if I had the time I'd like to do things, I'd build something similar based on a little microcontroller so that I could log all of the up/down action with timings to graph and see where I could be more efficient in my forging...Sometimes it really sucks having the skills to do things without the time or money...
  14. Nono, the tailstock (non-driven end), not the headstock (driven end). You have to keep the driven end clamped pretty well or it would round off or smear I'd imagine. Many of the twisting setups I've seen either allow the non-driven end to slide along a carriage of some sort or use a 3-sided die to hold the stock so that it can pull towards the headstock as the piece shortens. Of course, if you're not having issues with smaller, longer stock that may not be the cause anyway.
  15. That's only ~4 twists/inch...I wouldn't imagine that's too bad. One question; Is your tailstock clamping setup allowed to slide towards the headstock as the twist tightens? I could see things trying to rip apart if the bar isn't allowed to easily get shorter as it twists...I'm sure that's not likely it, but I'm trying to think of things that would cause tearing. What direction are the rips that you see?
  16. I figured that would be a bad idea with the pump pressures involved. If the lack of flow restriction will allow this without blowing a hole in the bucket and my shop floor, I may try it, but until I've seen it done safely, I'd honestly be nervous as hell about it.
  17. Thanks for the food for thought Owen. I can always run the twister off of the press pump if necessary which would give me a 5HP motor and 21GPM. That said, I'd like to see what I can make work with the new setup since the flow rate is much closer to what I need for the motor that I have so I wouldn't have to put a flow restrictor inline and add a lot of heat to the oil. I'm counting on a decent amount of speed reduction/torque multiplication from the chain drive...We'll see how it goes. Even if I could just manage to easily and evenly twist 1" bar I'd be happy, but I always have to push things, it's in my nature. I'm pretty sure that it's possible to get good results twisting patternweld up to 2" (50.8mm) as I believe Robert Eggerling does this. I should be able to chat with him about this at our February Blacksmith Guild meeting and find out if there are any special tricks to it. I'll let you know what I find out.
  18. Nice! How did you construct the collar on the handle?
  19. As always Jim, you serve as an inspiration! I can't even fathom forging Stellite 6K. It will be a bit interesting since I'll have to use the press which will likely mean preheating the dies pretty well and taking one or two little bites per heat to be on the safe side. I mean, I'll TRY it with a hand hammer, but somehow I doubt that it will move very well that way. I'll report back to this thread in case anybody is interested in the results. I have to get back to the CPM154/3V pattern welding experiments from years ago as well. I think I have enough left for one billet....
  20. So, I'll be making a pile of O1 file guides for my blacksmith guild shortly and in thinking about it remembered that I had a couple of decent sized chunks of CPM 10v (3/4" square, 2 3/4" long) sitting around. I'd love to make myself a 10v file/grinding guide while I'm at it, but these are a bit thick and not quite long enough. Looking at the data sheet for 10v the forging window is from 2000-2100F, which is pretty tight, but I may be able to manage. I can run the recommended annealing cycle in the kiln and then hopefully be able to machine the resulting bars flat and do the necessary drilling/reaming/tapping. If I could forge these two hunks down to ~3/8"x5/8"x6" I could make two sets of file guides out of them. Am I insane? Has anybody here actually tried forging 10v?
  21. So, with my newly acquired hydraulic pump, it's time to start figuring out plans for a twisting machine. I've seen a few good examples out there (Mmmm...Hebo Machine), but want to pick the brains of the assembled crowd here who have or have built one (calling Ric Furrer!!! ). Here's the basics of what I have to build off of: - Sauer-Danfoss DS-250 hydraulic motor - 2HP motor/hydraulic pump setup (still trying to determine flow rate. See my other thread if you think you can help ID the pump.) Assuming 2-5GPM on the pump, that gives me between ~20-60RPM and 250-275 lb/ft. at the hydraulic motor shaft at 1500PSI (which is roughly the max for continuous duty on the motor. For intermittent I can push that up to ~330-350lb/ft@2000PSI). With these as base assumptions, here are the things I'm trying to figure out. Any input is appreciated. A twisting machine would count as intermittent duty, right? Can I push the motor @2000PSI and not worry too much about fragging it, or should I stay at the constant use pressure? What's a good target speed for a twisting rig? My guess is 10-20 RPM. Any idea how to calculate torque required to twist various bar sections hot? I'd like to be able to twist 2" square. Anybody with experience in load ratings for roller chain? I've looked up the tables, but the variability based on # of sprocket teeth are confusing me a bit. Ideas for building the headstock chuck? Most folks seem to just have a square or hex that appropriately sized dies can be swapped into. How should I attach the chuck to a driveshaft in such a way that it will hold up over time? I have some ideas, but I'm open to suggestions. Current thought is to shoot for ~20RPM (1 rotation every 3 seconds) if I can, but I'll need to have ~5GPM from the pump in order to gear things down enough to get the torque I think I'll need. Here's how I'm figuring this would work if I have a 5GPM pump: 5GPM = ~60RPM and 270lb/ft @1500PSI Use a #80 10 tooth sprocket to drive direct from the motor shaft Using a #80 30 tooth sprocket at the headstock end would give me 20RPM and ~810 lb/ft@1500PSI or ~1020lb/ft@2000PSI Using a #80 40 tooth sprocket at the headstock end would give me 15RPM and ~1080 lb/ft or ~1360lb/ft@2000PSI I want as much torque as I can get, but I don't want to sacrifice for too slow a twisting speed and have to waste time/fuel re-heating. I'm hoping that the pump is ~5GPM, but I'm having a heck of a time locating any specs on it. Aside from hooking up the motor, counting RPM and referring to the graphs in the motor manual, is there a good way to determine hydraulic pump flow rate? Thanks all. Again, any input is appreciated!
  22. Brian, I'm just curious if you've gotten any mode done on this project.
  23. So, I wired this motor up today and it fired right up! I only ran it for a second or two so I didn't mess up the pump. Now I need to get some plugs to close off the extra manifold ports and a couple of hoses to test out running a hydraulic motor with it. If all goes well, this may be what kicks me back into gear on building a twisting machine...
  24. I don't know, but I've been playing with the idea of building another grinder for a while and will probably make up a set of plans. If I get around to it I'll be sure to post them. Of course, I also need to go back through my posts here and fix all of the broken images.... -d
  25. You all know I'll be there! Any requests for demos or stuff anybody wants to see?
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