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Everything posted by deker

  1. Ray Rybar's method is actually pretty slick. He showed me how he puts it together when I visited him just before he moved out to Camp Verde. He actually uses thin sheet that he puts a resist on and then etches through to lay out the words/patterns. Then he stacks up the cleaned sheet stock in a can and fills the voids with powder. It was kind of neat to see.
  2. Got some pics of the motor/pump setup today. What the motor/pump setup looks like: Motor data (just because): The pump inside: Closeup of the pump: The pump has the markings "90P" "MADE IN ITALY" "FG" and "27M6" (or possibly "27MG"). Now I'm trying to ID the pump. If anybody has a clue on this I'd appreciate it. My google-fu seems to be weak on this one.
  3. I got the motor, pump, and reservoir with it! I honestly was just interested in a cheap 2HP motor, and all the hydraulics were icing on the cake! I've already got a forging press (8" cylinder, 21GPM pump, pushes about 45 tons), but I'm thinking that if all the bits of this setup work I may use it as a hub for a number of smaller hydraulic tools I've been planning. First is likely be a hydraulic twisting machine (already have a hydraulic motor for this), second might be a small press just for punching/drifting, and third maybe a rolling mill. It would be kind of cool to have them all running form one pump and manifold setup. When the sun is back up I'll get the pump cleaned up and see if I can figure out what it is.
  4. Point taken. I've never actually LOOKED at the the steel in the hardware store.
  5. So, I went out on a Craigslist hunt today for a cheap 2HP motor that needed some repair (hoping it needed a starting cap. or bearing or something). Turns out that it was attached to a small hydraulic tank/pump, and came with a whole manifold full of solenoid valves to boot! The 4 Parker valves are PN: D1VW020BNYP and the Northman one is PN: SWH-G02-B3S-A120-20. I even got a fistful of the electrical connector ends to attach to these and a couple other odds and ends. At first glance it seems like a set of solenoid controlled directional valves. Supposedly this all came off of some kind of press used in a sign making shop. It had been sitting around the shop/warehouse for so long that nobody was sure what was wrong with it, and one guy thought that it may all still be working. Anybody here know what I've stumbled on? I'll get more pictures tomorrow in the daylight.
  6. Very cool setup. I'm interested to see the video of the setup in action. If you don't mind my asking, what did the control setup set you back?
  7. deker

    creating hada

    If you stack,weld, and fold monosteel, you will get some evidence of the layering due to decarb at the weld boundaries. It can be very subtle. I have a blade in progress that shows this (I welded up multiple pieces for mass) and it's pretty cool looking. I'll see if I can get a picture. The example I have is only 21 layers, so it doesn't look like traditional hada, but if it were layered up and beaten about a good bit, you might arrive at something close-ish.
  8. Try looking for a welding/fabrication shop or a machine shop in your area. If you ask for "cold rolled" steel, they'll hand you 1018. Be friendly, take some of your work in, chat with the guys. It won't work at every shop, but if you find a good shop where you can make friends with the guy at the shop desk, you may be able to get shop drops at discounted prices, etc. I've got a welding shop and a machine shop locally that have helped me out more times than I can recall. Machine shops will have tool steel too.... -d
  9. Super impressed and digging every bit of this Robert. Thanks so much for sharing the process.
  10. This is very similar to what I did for mine. I didn't buy the KMG small wheel attachment, but got some of the Wilton style small wheels cheap. Works great!
  11. I bet it works a lot better when they heat the steel...
  12. Gorgeous work Gary! I love the pattern, and the steel is super clean for meteorite. Nicely done!
  13. For some general forge welding info and tips, I've written up a bunch of info here. Gabriel, the other thing to take note of is that A36 is really inconsistent in composition and often just won't weld at all. If you want mild to weld to something, use "cold rolled" 1018.
  14. You remind me, I'll bring it! -d
  15. We bought some vises similar to this (or possibly the same ones) for my blacksmith guild a few years ago. They have since been replaced by good old fashioned vises. Aside from the jaw serrations, the screws in these are not nearly heavy enough for a post vise. For what they're charging for these, you could get an awfully nice older vise at a hammer-in, or even on eBay. I'd steer clear.
  16. Very cool work there, but I have to disagree that the punching there is anything like a hammer/axe eye. If you try to push through an axe eye in one go like that, you're gonna have a bad time...
  17. Just got this beast in the mail today. Thanks again Robert! This is a gorgeous knife that just seems to want to cut stuff. The only problem is that it's too pretty and I don't want to put scratches across the fantastic hamon! What's a guy to do?
  18. Right on Al! Glad to hear you got some time back in the shop!
  19. I agree with Austin. While I applaud your efforts to jump in with both feet, having done so myself, I'd warn you to do a bit of a progression. I have a collection of info on pattern welding on one of my websites that can help with some of the technical details, but I would strogly urge you to get some basic experience in moving steel with a hammer and anvil before you jump into pattern welding. Also, I agree with the above comments that when you do get to pattern welding, you should use new, known materials. Not only are the materials not that expensive to get, they will provide you with something that you know should work if your process is right. This will reduce the variables that can (and will!) cause failures, extended troubleshooting, and lots of wasted time. Especially if you intend to eventually sell your work, I urge you to only use new materials. The way I see it, when I'm making pattern welded steel, I pay (on average) $4/lb for steel. When I'm done with it, people pay FAR more than that for it. My reputation and my time have always been worth more to me than a few bucks, so the false economy of recycling for this type of work is always bad. We're always here to answer questions as you progress on your journey, feel free to ask more!
  20. Jim, Oh how I wish I had hit the lottery last week! These are fantastic as your work always is and I'm already jealous of whoever will own them.
  21. Dave, Simply wonderful work and presentation of the process. The concept of this project as well as the execution captures an inspiring fusion of style and technique. I always find myself jealous of you folks who have the time, expertise, and patience to conquor builds of this type with traditional methods. After seeing this I find myself wondering what the Japanese smith would do with a description of an American Bowie knife to work from, with the large, wide blade, large guard and clipped point. In the hands of most people I'd bet that the fusion would be caricature indeed, but somehow I think you would manage to capture the somewhat brutish elements of a Western Bowie in a Japanese style that would be quite complimentary. Very nice work. Thank you for sharing.
  22. Awesome! Truly the best Christmas gift I'm getting this year! (shhh...don't tell my wife I said that... ) Thanks a million Robert, I can't wait to get my hands on this beast!
  23. If you're looking to make 2D drawings, check out the following (Note: I haven't used most of these, but where I have comments I'll put them in): LibreCAD - Free 2D CAD program for Windows, OSX, and Linux. QCAD - Another free, multiplatform, 2D CAD program. Has a decent following IIRC. Draftsight - Free 2D CAD software from Dassault Systemes, the folks that make Solidworks. I haven't looked at it, but I bet it's probably pretty good. For 3D modeling: AutoCAD Student Edition - The venerable AutoCAD is available for free to students/teachers/education institutions Google Sketchup - Free, easy to use, 3D modeling software. Not quite as powerful as some others, but there's a lot of tutorials, info, etc. online for it. Solidworks - The best darned 3D modeling software out there IMHO. It's expensive as all get out (thousands of $$), but if you're a student or a military veteran, you can get the student edition for $20! There are also a TON on tutorials/websites on how to use Solidworks available online. Blender - Free, open-source 3D modeling software. This is less a drafting/CAD program and more of an artistic 3D modeler. Lots of info online on how to drive it though.
  24. Looks like a nice little slicer Jake! I'm so jealous of you guys that can carve....
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