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uhrs2

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  1. Hey guys. I am in the process of trying to make a shop for myself. I am thinking about using two shipping containers, putting them side by side, and cutting a hole between the two to connect them. This is probably the most cost-effective way I can do this. I have also put a down-payment on a 25 lb little giant power hammer. I will probably find a house in a residential area, so, using the power hammer outside won't work for noise reasons. The question then is, how to be able to use the power hammer inside the container without ripping out the floor in the container. I figure that
  2. Thanks Don, I am not exactly sure how all of this works. Probably a stupid question but what is scarving? Also, is there any online tutorial for this? I am currently not using a a wood core. Just wrapping around the tang. -Uhrs
  3. Does anyone know about any good tutorials for leather handle wrapping a handle with a single strip of leather. I am looking for a clean way to do a non-japanese style blade for a large bowie knife. The leather I have is 1/3 of an inch wide, and it is pretty thick. I want to do a spiral wrap but I have no idea about how to tuck in the ends. Should I thin down the ends? what to do? Anyway if any of you guys think of anything please let me know. -Uhrs
  4. Hey guys, does anyone know the phone number for the midwest knifemakers supply company. I have been trying to load their page and I haven's been able to load it. If anyone knows their phone number it would be deeply appreciated. -Uhrs
  5. Hey guys, I have been looking for a site or a forging tutorial that talks about Naginata from a bladesmith's perspective. I would like to know about forging a naginata sunobe, blade styles, proportions etc. If anyone has any info. it would be deeply appreciated. -Uhrs
  6. Thanks for replying. I thought that was the case. So, the trick then, to creating a "traditional looking" Japanese style blade, would be to add high carbon steel to wrought in a billet of some sort. Probably using straw ashes as a flux. Aside from w2, what else would make a hamon pop when mixed with wrought iron? Any ideas? Thanks guys -Uhrs
  7. Okay guys, This may be a stupid question. What is the difference between wrought iron and Tamahagane? Is it Just the amount of carbon that makes the difference between the two? The process for the two seems to be very similar right? Anyway, Please let me know. I have been thinking about this for a long time. -Uhrs
  8. Hey guys, I am getting a 25lb little giant, and I was wondering how well they are for applying to bladesmithing. I am assuming that because of the lower weight, there will be limitations as far as the thickness of material etc. However, I think it'll be alright, since almost anything is better than your arm at conserving energy. I want to make daggers to larger knives or short swords both in plain steels or damascus. What have been some of your experiences? Please let me know when you get a chance. -Uhrs
  9. Hey guys sorry about the no reply. Had alot of tests this week and, I just got backinto town. Anyway, Yes, there were some scratch marks on the blades, unfortunately I don't have a camera but the crack is along side one of the scratches (120 grit) running perpendicular to the edge. What grit do you guys take your blades to before you heat treat? would I have gotten better results with a full quench? Also, the blade may have been alittle too thin. I think it was 1/32 of an inch. I have made blades this thin in the past, but they havent cracked. I think that for thin cross-sections,
  10. Hey guys, I found some gunstocks blocks "blanks" on ebay. What are the usual dimensions of the typical gunstock club? Is there a particular angle to the bend that I need to know about? It needs to be a functional weapon, so does it need to be very heavy, or relatively light? what the typical weight, length and thickness, is the blade wrapped in, or pinned?
  11. Hey guys. I took a piece of admiral's 1095 and forged a blade, ground it and normalized three times. I evenly heated to non magnetic and I edge queched in a pan of warm veggie oil and it cracked. I figured it was an uneven edge and made the another of the same blade again with a more even edge and overall better lines. The conditions were the same, and the blade cracked yet again. Same spot. What the heck is going on? Usually I have trouble getting the blade hard enough. yet this time, both got real hard and cracked. Same exact place nearly. The only thing I have done differently wit
  12. Hey guys, This is Uhrs again. I was just wondering how thermal cycling affects the activity of the hamon? I know that it will probably depend on the steel. but in general how is the hamon affected?
  13. Hey guys. I have been searching the forum about hamon activity and steel types. I have never made a hamon, but I have statanite, ap green 36 and even kitty litter. I am trying to find out which steel to buy that will give me the most activity. I know that alot of the steel's activity is brougt out by the polishing, and I intend to use the paper., pad and and polish paste. however, which steel using which method gives the most hamon activity. I know alot of people like w2, hoiw much of a difference is there between w1 and w2. what about 1080,1095, 1050,1060,1065? what kind of quench?
  14. Hey guys. I have been truly impressed with all the forged animal heads I have seen so far(horses, cobras, bears, wolves or anything else). I would like to learn about doing this kind of thing. ( I have done a search online and founf only a few. Would anyone be willing to post a few tutorials on forging animal head?
  15. Hey everyone. This is Uhrs, If any of you reside in Tucson Arizona. I am hoping to find people to hang with, work together with, and even bounce some ideas off of. Please let me know. The friends + family I have glaze over when I speak of this wonderful art. -Uhrs
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