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Wayne V

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About Wayne V

  • Birthday 10/01/1966

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  • Location
    Gauteng, South Africa
  • Interests
    Martial Arts, Hiking, Motorcycles, Blades.

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  1. I know Lee, they weren't my theories Matt, i am not sure why, because I know very little about horses, but the Samurai felt it neccessary to cut a vein in their horse's neck and let it bleed for a while, every now and again. The process was non-lethal. The "Umabari" that Lee refers to translates as "Horse Needle" as far as I know. I have not had the chance to check my files for the tutorials yet. Regards Wayne
  2. Hi. I did a lot of research on these some time ago, everyone here was very helpful, but it seems the Kogai and Kozuka are a bit of a mystery. No one seems to know for sure what they were used for. I have heard many possible uses: The Kogai: a comb, a kebab stick for roasting meat, a needle for bleeding horses. The Kozuka: An eating knife, a throwing weapon, a pen knife, a blade for bleeding horses, a ceremonial knife. The fact is, no one knows and it would seem that they have become purely asthetic additions to the sword. One thing is for sure, they were not used as weapons. The Kozuka's handle is held in place by the blade being bent into a curve, and pressing into the inside of the handle, i.e. purely by friction. The kogai is usually made from a single, solid piece. Somebody did a Tutorial on making a Kozuka handle a while ago, I think it may have been Ford Hallam, but I may be wrong. I will see if I can find it amongst my data. If anyone spots any mistakes in what I have said above, please correct me, as it has been a while since I did the research. Regards Wayne
  3. Hi Stu Can you tellme where you get your 1070? Does it have an equivalent EN number? Regards Wayne
  4. Hi Stu I have been experiencing some car problems, but as soon as I have those sorted out, I will take you up on that offer of a visit. Awesome work! Wayne
  5. Wayne V


    OK, so the one blade cracked. I forgot exactly which steel I used and it turned out to be one that can not be water quenched. I should get out of the black clothing and dark mood swings soon. I hope. The good news is that the bull knife made it without cracking and is now at this stage: The question I have is that although I laid the clay out very far from the edge, it is showing a hamon that is very close to the edge. The clay popped off as I quenched and the blade has a very thick cross section. Could these be factors? Here is a pic of my clay layout, the "curvy" knife is the one that cracked: Regards Wayne
  6. I found a local manufacturer of wire rope. The guys were quite helpful and refered me to the head of their "Laborotory." They apparently cut two meter lengths of Rope for load testing and then oly use about half a meter. I have not been back to find out whether I can purchase or just take the scrap, but I have seen a skip full of the stuff in various thicknesses. Maybe you could call a local Wire Rope Manufacturer? Also the overhead gantry cranes that are used in the steel industry use some nice sized cable. Call scrapyards that are near your steel industry. Regards Wayne
  7. Hi Francois. I'm sorry I have taken this long to respond. I was on a business trip to Limpopo and Mpumalanga. Welcome to the forum. It's really cool that more South African guys are joining here. We can help each other especially when it comes to raw materials. I love this sword. The concept and the execution are brilliant my friend. Regards Wayne Viola
  8. Hi Matthew Once again I am far from an expert, but I really love this blade shape and did a bit of research a while back. It seems that the edge on the back of the balde is more decorative in function and I have not managed to find a picture where it is actually hardened. By the way the blade shape, according to my research is called "Kogarasu Maru-Zukuri" which means "Little Crow" Maybe a Google search will help. Regards Wayne
  9. This reminds me of a friend who is a chemical engineer. We were making traditional South African Food called "Potjiekos" which translates as "Pot Food". It's basically a type of stew that is made in layers in a traditional African Cast Iron pot, and cooked very slowly over coals. The idea is to put the stuff that takes longest to cook at the bottom and so on and so forth. The most common type is an "Everything In" Pot. This means you open the fridge and just chuck everything you find (within reason) into the pot. My engineer friend pitched up with all his ingredients weighed, and proportioned in plastic containers. He spent quite some time "auditing the S.O.P." which I later found out was a recipe he had found on the internet. I took it all away from him and threw everything in a pot. It tasted great! I am far from an expert on making knives, but I have tought myself to draw them. I started by just making outlines and concentrating on proportion, which is harder than one might think. Then I started filling in bevels and bolsters etc, and then concentrating on their proportions as well. Now I draw about 5 knives a day. Usually it's one that I want to make or a inspiration that I picked up from someone/somewhere else. All of the advice above helps. I find that drawing a knife over and over helps me when I am forging it. I can use the images in my head to guide me. In short, draw, draw, draw. Keep everything and don't over-analize anything. This is art, it doesn't need to make sense. I hope this helps a bit. Regards Wayne
  10. Wayne V


    I'm not sure why, but I really enjoy working with my files. I only have a very small belt grinder, but I don't feel as "in control" when I work with it. I want to make myself a Sen soon and use that in conjunction with my files. Maybe I won't actually need the large grinder. It's no good spending all that money and never use the thing. Well I am busy with the clay. It's taking longer than I would have thought. I am trying for some "random" pattern in the hamon. I have two knive that need to be HT'd this weekend, but the other one is made from spring steel and will need an oil quench. It's a fighter with a very thin cross-section. I also prefer doing my final shaping with stones. It's wierd I know, but I keep reverting to older more trditional ways, and it's not because I have some kind of moral objection to using power tools. They just feel better to me.
  11. Wayne V


    We get used to it. I actually love the pure anarchy and chaos of Africa. There are some sacrifices to be made to be sure (Like access to decent steel)but there is always a way around the problem. I promised I would post pictures of the knife as she stands now. It turned out quite nice. I am still going to file a bit before I clay it up. I am really worried about the carbomn content now. Let's hope she hardens up in the water. Regards Wayne
  12. Wayne V


    Hi guys That's a really cool idea about forging a "test" piece first. Why didn't I think of that? I will do that tonight I think.The knife is designed to have a hardened bolster so that it can be used as a "hammer". Perhaps I will use those as test pieces. I didn't have time to fire up the forge this weekend. I had car problems that drove me nuts. Spent the whole time under the car, but eyeing out the forge all the time. It is possible to import the steel, but it becomes expensive with the courier fees. Our postal system sucks badly and if someone percieves that there might be something valuable in the package, it will never reach it's end destination.I have read many posts where "Aldo" is mentioned. Thanks for the lead, I may look him up after these knives go out. Then I will have some cash available. My forge is in it's second config. Initially I had it much deeper and dish-shaped. I found that it messed me around when I was trying to heat a section of blade, if the blade was long enough to reach both sides of the dish. It would hover too high above the charcoal. This config has a dish where my "diffuser" is. I seems to be working well. The steel gets pretty hot! It's just me that needs to grow a pair and stop hauling it out before time.I will stop at my local refractory supply and get a few bricks and create a "Channel" that seems to make sense to me. I have also scrounged the pieces for a side blast forge that I would like to build soon. I will only use that for longer blade though and then probably only during HT. This little forge is serving me really well right now. Here are some specs I found on the EN9: TYPICAL ANALYSIS C. Si. Mn. S. P. 0.50% 0.25% 0.70% 0.05% 0.05% Forging: Heat slowly and uniformly to 1100°C. After forging cool slowly. Annealing: Heat uniformly to 700°C. Soak well and cool slowly in the furnace. Hardening: Heat uniformly to 820/840°C until heated through. Quench in oil, or water. Tempering: Heat uniformly and thoroughly at the selected tempering temperature, between 550/660°C and hold at heat for one hour per inch of total thickness. Normalising: Normalise at 840-870°C, and cool in air. Stress Relieving: After rough machining tools should be stress relieved. Soaking time 2 hours after the whole piece has attained a temperature of approximately 675°C. Cool in furnace to approximately 500°C, and then freely in air. Regards Wayne
  13. Wayne V


    Hi Doug, thanks for the info. It is hard to find steel over here. I was looking for a supplier for 52100 for ages. I got the same confused look everytime! I eventually found some kinife makers that travel to the US every year and buy up all the 52100 they can afford, then bring it back here "for their own use." It is very possible that my order got mixed up. This stuff sparks quite a bit on the grinder. This kife is the prototype, so if the EN9 doesn't work, I will have to find an alternative. Bryan, I would love to work with some 1" stock. The problem is that I dont have a power hammer or mill yet. Working the 20 mm stuff down was a PITA, I can only guess how long it would have taken me to hammer the 25mm down! My forge has an electric fan and gets plenty hot. It's just me that is afraid of over-heating the steel! Scott, I will be doing the HT this weekend. I am nervous of this one, I have no idea why. I will cycle it thru a number of normalising heats first, and then it's a water quench for this baby! Oh yes, there will be clay added between there somewhere. I really want this blade to be a heavy, hard working tool. What I meant by "flexible" is that the knife should rather bend than break. It's pretty thick at the centre of the bevel. It will probably end up at 1/4" (6mm). Here is a snap of me at my forge. It's an old Plough Shear, filled to level with castable refractory and the air blows up the support. Regards Wayne
  14. Wayne V


    Hi Guys Yes indeed, I do believe I was working a bit cold, even though I was heating to yellow/orange. I was concerned I would decarb the already low carbon steel. (This is why I still post in the "Beginers Place". Also I think that forging down from round stock had a lot to do with the time spent. I will definately post pictures of the finished knife. It wouldn't surprise me if the origional idea was inspired by a military type blade, because this blade (and it's sisters) is on it's way to a hotspot with some friends who are as they put it: "In the s#*t business." You military types will know exactly what that means. I decided to use the EN9 because I was told it would give me a hard enough edge, but a really fexible core. This knife, although it's gong to be used in a combat situation, is more for digging, chopping and basic camp work. I don't see it as a "wetwork" tool at all. I couldn't get it out as wide as I wanted.I need to aquire flat stock or a gas forge and rolling mill for the next batch if it becomes a problem. The blade is about 38mm wide now, and I think it looks great like that. It would look out of proportion with the short blade otherwise. I did manage to get it into a reasonable shape though. I finished up at 1 am this morning and had to be up at 5 am to go to work. It's going to be a very long day :-) After about an hour of filing she is looking good and is already feeling good in the hand. I am posting progress pics on Facebook so that the client can follow the build. Look me up if you are keen, I have an open profile so you won't have to "Friend" me unless you really want to. Just search for Wayne Alan Viola. Regards Wayne
  15. Wayne V


    Hello again I am busy with what is essentially my first commision. The client wanted what he calls a "Bull Knife" I assumed it's someone's brand name, so I am just going to call it a "Tactical Camp Knife" for now. If this one is a hit, there are six more to be made. I decided to use 1050 (or actually EN9 which I am told is very similar). Here is the drawing from the client: I am busy forging it right now, but I am having difficulty with the EN9. It doesn't want to move under the hammer. Two bags of Charcoal down and about 4 hours of forging and this is where I am: The client wants a wide knife that can be used as a camp knife as well. The spec is 45mm wide! I am hand forging from 20mm (3/4") round stock. I just cant seem to get those bevels nice and clean. I have to heat often just to get small amounts of movement. As you can see in the picture, I have forged the tang first, and now I am trying to forge the blade. The problem area is in the transition (Ricasso?) area. I just cant seem to get the material to spread wide enough to get the width I am looking for. Oh well, I am off to go buy more charcoal. Regards Wayne
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