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Tom Demitras

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About Tom Demitras

  • Birthday 01/07/1983

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    propeine
  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    1374050

Profile Information

  • Location
    Erie, Pa
  • Interests
    General Blacksmithing<br />Bladesmithing<br />Custom Built Cars
  1. Sam, drive on down and get it! Only like 5hrs I believe. Greg I will post it over there as well. Thank you for the heads up. I'd pick it up if i had anywhere to put it right now. Living in the city sucks.
  2. The company I work for McShane Welding, in Erie, Pa is planning on scrapping a punch press. It has a 12hp motor and is believed to be a 50 ton punch. It was in working condition when it was sat out in the yard about 8 years ago. Its now rusty and needs some TLC. We estimate it to weigh somewhere between 3000-4000lb. Scrap is 12 cents a pound right now. I would say if you showed up with $500 cash we would load it onto a trailer or flatbed and it would be yours. I have no clue if it can be repurposed or parts of it used on something else. The only nameplate i can find on it appears to say A.M. Patison Company Cleveland Ohio. I've attached some pictures. Let me know if you need different ones for more detail etc. I hate to see this thing get melted if someone can use it and I only have about 3 weeks to get rid of it or its gettin scrapped. Please email me at tdemitras@mcshanewelding.com with any questions. Tom
  3. Looks like fun. I have been away from the board for a longgggg time but just started looking again today and it makes me miss making razors. Might have to figure out how I can avoid irritating the neighbors in the city and have a go again. Darn moving has kept me from forging for the better part of two years. Keep it up!
  4. Haha isn't that why you have kids in the first place? To do the chores you don't want to do any more. Trash, dishes, sheathmaking.
  5. I gotta say you have a damn smart kid. Not only did she go out (unsupervised) and grind out a knife but secondly she came here to ask for suggestions on how to make it better. Don't hit her too hard it will only make her want to hide it from you the next time she does something she's not supposed to. On the same token I would have gotten a leather belt for that one and I turned out ok.
  6. Definitely helps. I might wind up using coal due to the fact I already have a bunch but either way that should work. I'm not in a position financially to build a dedicated heat treat forge from a 55gal drum at the moment so the trough is a much better plan for me. I'm using soft firebricks for my forge and I might be able to rearrange them to fit the wak but I'm not sure about the evenness of the heat. Either way I can't say enough about how much your topic has helped just from the level of detail at each stage so thanks again Cris and everyone. Tom
  7. Hey all. I was inspired by Cris Anderson to try and make a wakizashi out of a rail clip. I'm posting it on my primarily automotive related blog that I just started (with hopes of moving to a news site instead of blog) for all to see. This is the site to view about my wak directly but I'll give you the preamble here. Similar basic dimensions to Cris's chunk o steel. Been a major pain to forge down to size but its just under 26" right now and I have a little more meat to move around before I do the bevels. Hoping to see over 30" once the bevels are forged in but I'm figuring more around 28". Let me know what you think so far and also what anyone thinks of the site. Especially bugs. Thanks for looking guys. I'll be updating here and over there as things progress. Tom
  8. Haha I plan on taking my own path at the heat treat stage. Just a little to the left. As in no one trying to take pictures (dunno who would do it anyway) so I can focus on getting things right. Although I'm also going to have to figure out what to do for heat treat/tempering. My little forge just isnt gonna cut it.
  9. Just wanted to add that this long list of posts has inspired me to try my hand at a wak. I used to weld these things together to make flowers. A little rebar to jam into the ground and some spray paint and lots of people liked them. Never knew they were good steel and I've got bunches laying around from walks on the tracks. I started yesterday with a clip of similar size and am currently at 23 inches OAL on my sunobe. I've got about 5 inches left to get down to proper width and thickness. Looks like I'm going to wind up about the same length as yours Cris. Thanks for the super informative posts and thanks everyone else for the insight on the process. I'll make a new thread when the sunobe is fully forged.
  10. That knife is beautiful. I like the shape of the blade, the distal taper in the handle isn't easy and looks very well done. A little quench line action always appeals to me. But....I'm going to have to agree with Greg on this one at least about the pins. The lanyard loop is ok but that front pin could have been half that size and been more visually appealing IMO. Would it stop me from looking twice at the knife? Definitely not. Thats a very nice piece of work and definitely better finished than I could manage ATM.
  11. Fabian, Thank you for the explanation! Now that I look I see what you mean about the welding as well. Perhaps I'll have to make one with a very short blade and try the traditional style out.
  12. Beautiful. I've yet to try any experiments with pattern welds or san mai but I have hopes and aspirations haha. I agree keep them coming! First question, do you shave with them? Secondly if you do, do you switch hands or what to always keep the hollow side towards your face? I never followed how that would work to be able to do WTG, XTG, and ATG passes all with the same hand and without using the flat grind against your face.
  13. So cool. Always wished I had a camera with a time lapse of more than 5 seconds.
  14. Its 11/16ths across and just over an 1/8th inch in width so its closer to 5:1 instead of 3.5:1. I never actually measured it. I'm surprised at how thick it actually should have been. Oh well live and learn. The one I'm working on now is even smaller. Oops. Better start leaving a little more after the forging.
  15. Just thought I'd show you fine gentlemen what came out of my earlier posts about hollow grinding. I was in the process of polishing it up with intent for a handle and decided I should see if it would take a shaving edge first. Well its been 5 days now and 3 shaves. It took a shaving edge and frankly I'm not sure if I'm going to do anything but keep it ridiculously sharp now. My roommate managed to get his thumb enough to need stitches while he was just poking around with it and its not the first knife he's handled. Its not as sharp as the guys over at SRP get them but its effective and satisfying to shave with. My grind lines aren't straight due to my impatience with doing it ALL by hand and my ineptness with the whirling rock grinder. Was sharpened with a lansky sharpening system up to ultra fine. Then stropped on computer paper charged with chrome oxide. Then newspaper and finally a leather strop. It passes the thumbnail test, im not sure about the thumb pad test and does not pass the hanging hair test. Once I get some money I'm going to go with some sort of waterstone setup or if I'm still poor just use the Scary Sharp method. I've got a second more refined one in the toaster oven tempering right now so hopefully I can take that one all the way. The lines are crisp so it can be honed flat in the traditional manner. Tell me what you like, what you hate and if you think I'm lazy for not finishing it well you're probably right. Oh and the profile picture I was trying to show just how thin it is but the light reflections make it look horribly hooked. Its not. Also the tip is that way due to an unfortunate problem while straightening a warp but I liked the look so I left it.
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