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Tom Megow

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Posts posted by Tom Megow

  1. I have an unused 8" contact wheel. I build a KMG Clone several years ago, I bought the wheel at that time. It was put on my dresser when it arrived and sits there still. I bought stuff from KMG and Mid-West so it came from either of those. I simply do not remember from whom I purchased it.

    It has never been used, never even mounted. It's yours for $200 and I'll split the shipping

     

    Tom

    So.Georgia

  2. Yep

    In a perfect world one I can mount on the space-saver from Bader I have, but I may be able to adapt it.

     

    Ric

    My 8" has never been used nor even mounted. I bought it from either Rob at KMG or Tracy at Mid-West.

    I build a KMG Clone several years ago and purchased stuff from both places. I ended up a flat grinder and never

    mounted it on my clone. It has been sitting on my dresser ever since it arrived.

    $200 and split the shipping new now days are 256 or 260 depending which place you order from. I think Mid-West is out of them

    when I checked last week

    You can contact me at t_megow(at)yahoo.com if your interested

    Tom

    So.Ga.

  3. The charcoal is both the fuel and the source of carbon.

     

    As for using machine shop shavings, I suspect that it will work. Try it and let us know how you did.

    Jesus I will read this thread a couple times to see if I can

    understand how this works. I am fairly sure I can make the

    "smelter" but how much of what to add is what I need to figure

    out. Thank y'all for sharing this. It is very cool!!

  4. Any from of plain iron oxide will work as ore. I would recomend to avoid alloying elements in the ore.

    Jesus would mild steel Swarf from a machine shop work? in stead of ore??

    I just read this thread for the first time and am fascinated by the process.

    This is newb question for sure. I have not figured out how you get the carbon

    in the iron to make steel, from charcoal?

  5. I think she's sharp so here is a show & tell

    It is my priviledge as a Grandad to annouce the arrival of

    Neela Grace Megow

    Born today at 0751

    weighting 9lb 3 oz

    and 22" long

    I suspect she will be tall,as well as lovely !

    2158654340051197789bxhNsH_th.jpg

  6. Well guys I finally fired up the minipress today and I quickly found out why most folks weld a rest or support for the release rod. Man a foot control would be sweet too!! THANKS Thunder for sharing your design Ken Kelley for your advice and the many other generous folks on this forum and thanks Don

    Tom

  7. Are you using a hand held knife or a stationary blade? I would think a mounted V-shaped blade would work. Grap chicken by the head and the feet. Hold it feet up push the neck into the V, the head comes off in one hand the other has the feet. Hang your chicken on what ever you have set up for draining the blood. It could be turned in to a mini assembly line.

  8. OK Y'all I am at the point of needing to Fab some dies

    I have one piece of 2" mild steel round I was going to

    cut in half to make one set. What flat sizes do y'all find

    the most useful/effective? 2", 1.5", 1" ??

    Anyone using patterned dies? Tapered dies?

    Many Thanks

    Tom So.Ga.

  9. there is a tutorial on Dons site. what urner did you get? a blown burner IS NOT NECCESSARY for welding. I weld routinely in a non blown forge.

    Bill if you are asking me I use the fan from Indian Gerorge's tutorial. The fan he reccommends I was able to buy but I

    think it is not longer available. I did add a gate to the air side though. Mine is really a Fogg/I.George hybrid.

    I mounted it on three legs that will unscrew for transport. The forge openings are about chest high. No bending that way

    I have pic's if need be

    Tom

    So.Ga.

  10. Here is the latest correspondence. Anyone wanna be the W.I. Expert??

     

    i am unable to get into that blog to post my own response directly, but feel free to post this:

     

    we are not metal experts (we are in the wood reclamation business), so we had a couple of respected blacksmiths work some of the wrought iron and give us their opinion. I'm reasonably sure the rods and flat bars are the real thing. I'm less certain about the nails, although one of the blacksmiths did say they were wrought, too.

    we have done the test where you cut about 2/3 through the bar and then bend it. you can see the fibers quite clearly. also, there is relatively little rust for 120-year-old iron.

    anyway, we'd be happy to send a few samples to someone who would be willing to try it out and tell the rest of us what he thinks.

    best,

    Judy

  11. Below is an ad that was run in The Clinker Breaker, the monthly magazine of the Florida Artist Blacksmith Association. I have no idea if the pricing is good or not, but it looked like it might be of interest here, so I figured I'd pass it on.

     

    Wrought Iron

     

    We are in the process of dismantling the 1887 Globe Elevator near the Duluth-Superior Harbor and reclaiming its old-growth pine. Among its other treasures are several hundred thousand pounds of real wrought iron rods, ranging from 5/8 to 1.5 inches in diameter, up to 14 inches long. We also have flat bars a millions of wrought (square) nails. Prices start at $2 per pound. Call to check inventory.

     

    Wisconson Woodchuck LLC

    2 Banks Ave, P.O. Box 97, Superior, WI, 54880-0097

    Phone: (715) 392-5110

    Fax: (715) 392-5112

    d.hozza@wisconsonwoodchuck.net

    www.wisconsonwoodchuck.net

    If you type wisconsin rather that wisconson the web-page will load and I think the e-mail will work as well

    This is the response they sent me

    we also have a "special" on now - five-pound bundles of foot-long 5/8" rods for $42 delivered (which includes the shipping and handling) and 10-pound bundles for $59 delivered.

    if you want short lengths (up to 13"), we can send up to 70 lbs anywhere in the u.s. for a shipping-and-handling fee of $19.50. longer lengths (up to 6 feet) can be sent by ups or fedex ground relatively inexpensively, but we have to price each order individually.

    probably the best deal right now for a small order is to take one of the "specials" and add in a couple of 12" rods (or bars) of different sizes, which would not add anything to the shipping and handling.

    for instance, you could get 5 lbs of 5/8" rod (5 one-foot pieces) plus 8 lbs of 1-1/4" rod (2 one-foot pieces) for $62 delivered. or 5 lbs. of 5/8" rods plus 4 lbs of flat bar for $58. or 10 lbs. of 5/8" rod plus 5 lbs of 1" rod for $78. you get the idea. you can mix and match 1-foot lengths of whatever you want as long as you start with one of the specials and you don't exceed 70 lbs overall.

    hope that's helpful. feel free to call or email if you have questions.

     

    judy peres218-464-3705

  12. Mine is pushing from above, I had to add more springs to ensure the return and I found out that they double the speed of the return stroke and finaly that's a cheap way to speed up the whole forging cycle without loosing much forging power ;)

    Mike how did you mount them? Smaller springs inside the originals perhaps?

  13. Tom

    If you are taking about the clearance between the bottom ram bar and the uprights it travels on, then that is about as flush as I could get it, no more than 1/16” , - if the clearance between the uprights is to great and the jack isn’t centered, the travel upward will sometime become canted and the ram beam can get stuck. However it usually straightens out once it contacts the piece to be pressed.

     

    T. A. Toler

    That's it T.A. I was afraid too much clearance it might bind.

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