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About Gazz

  • Birthday 04/10/1952

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    The usual stuff - metalworking, gunsmithing, arts and crafts stuff, history and whatever curious thing that may come my way.

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  1. Excellent information! Thank you! A friend of mine was interested in buying it but was wondering about the weld bead, as was I.
  2. I saw an anvil yesterday, a larger Haybudden maybe 250 pounds or more that had a band of neatly done weld bead about 6" wide around the waist. The anvil still had good rebound and ring but I wonder about the weld. I can't imagine a forged anvil (they are forged are they not?) breaking in the waist that would require welding. Does anybody here have any ideas why it was welded? Just seems improbable that it broke there.
  3. Having been in the gunsmithing and used gun parts business for many years, I disagree. Yes, fitting and or the use of epoxy bedding material may be required parts like these may be the only replacements available. i may be interested in buying smithing parts and tools. Where are you located?
  4. Might be worth more as replacement shotgun parts, especially if you know what guns they came from. I'm looking for a stock for an L.C. Smith and wonder if the one next to the forend pieces is what I need. Have any more pictures of it?
  5. Many of the longer WW1 US bayonets were shortened during WW2 and had tips that looked very much like the op's picture. Then after the Korean war, many bayonets were demilled by cutting off the blades in front of the guard so it may be knife made from one of the demills.
  6. Another thing you can do is to back the workpiece with another piece of steel. This way when you break through you are still drilling material. Again, rigidity is important. Bed rail is some tough stuff. I use it for building machine or sculpture bases and it kills drill bits immediately. If I need a bolt hole, it is rough cut with the torch.
  7. I have bought stuff from these folks so they send me emails regularly. This video came in the email today and is about making an ingot from silver scrap but will apply to other non ferrous stuff;
  8. As noted above, when using carbide drills, everything must be rigidly mounted, your workpiece clamped to the drill press table either in a vise clamped to the table or the part directly clamped. Forget about using them without breaking in a hand held drill motor so you must have a drill press. The other cause of breakage is when the drill begins to enter the farside of the part being drilled. The cutting edges can grab easily since there is less material being cut so feed pressure must be reduced. It is definitely a "feel" issue.
  9. You might want to try adding some flux to your melt. It will help to gather up oxides and crap.
  10. I have an older Index 745 milling machine that I bought for $400 plus another $200 to get it here about 15 years ago. It has step pulleys (note that early Bridgeports used step pulleys and later variable speed using a v-belt as did Index) which would be a bit of a headache in a production machine shop but I think in your case not such a big deal as it presents little problem for me. The machine has been well used but is still tight enough for my purposes. About 5 years ago, I responded to a craigs list ad for some kind of machine tool, I think a drill press, and while there the seller aske
  11. I keep my 1950 pickup truck in one bay of my 1920's built 3 car garage and the other two are my shop. I had thought about using cloth curtains treated with boric acid as a fire retardant to isolate the bay with the truck but instead built a wall. Check out this link for some info; http://www.americanborate.com/all-about-borates/borate-applications/borates-in-flame-retardants/ I do lots of grinding in my shop with an angle grinder and the spray goes everywhere. I have to be careful about leaves, rags, paper or sawdust - basically tinder so it has to be cleaned up. I have found tha
  12. Some polymers do that on their own. When I had a real job in high tech, I spent a lot of time in the engineering group and one of the engineers had received a sample set of of different polymers that were approximately 2" squares by about 3/16" thick all held together on a beaded chain. They were all different colors and had an identifying name and durometer printed on them. I ended up taking the samples home as I thought they might be useful for some craft project but years later I found them in a work bench drawer with about half of them melted and gooey between ones that remained intact.
  13. I think I see some lubrication cuts in the cylinder piece that you think is brass or bronze so probably a turning shaft of some kind. Could make a nice non marring hammer.
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