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About Gazz

  • Birthday 04/10/1952

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    The usual stuff - metalworking, gunsmithing, arts and crafts stuff, history and whatever curious thing that may come my way.

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  1. I would be interested in the bronze. I am guessing 8"x8" but have no guess for thickness. I would pm you but haven't figured out how on this site.
  2. Gazz

    Blacksmith tongs or something else

    I think those "tongs" rather pliers were for gas pipe fitters back when houses were lit by gas lamps. They are quite handy in a hot shop.
  3. Gazz

    New quench tube

    You could also clean the mating parts to bright (which you should do do in any case) and braze it with an oxy/acetylene torch. The braze material flows to wherever it is hot enough and clean. Or watch some youtube videos on MIG welding and practice till you get good enough - it is not a difficult task.
  4. Gazz

    A new repurposing for summer

    Yes it will pop! And if your lucky no hot pieces will fall inside the neck of your shirt and leave a trail of burns down to your belt while you do an incredible dance to the great delight of the other party-ers.
  5. A jewelers saw will cut it fine but patience is required. Somewhere I remember reading that the blade should have 3 teeth in the material as you cut but jewelers saw blades are probably not that course for 10mm. Always keep the saw blade vertical and cut on the down stroke keeping the backside of the blade lubed with bees wax. Get yourself something like a jewelers bench pin to work off of and don't push the blade into the cut. Also, buy quality saw blades - the cheap ones will give you grief as they have a tendency to wander left or right of your desired path.
  6. Gazz

    How to mount this anvil?

    I am guessing that since it has a round 'stem" it probably fit into a stake plate of some kind, perhaps one that clamped the stem to prevent the anvil from twisting around. I have a similar one but it had a tapered spike for a stem. I drilled several holes into a big oak block to create a tapered hole and then glued it in with epoxy putty.
  7. Gazz

    Big Old Press

    I worked in a shop that had a press similar to this and the amount of force it could develop was impressive. We used it mainly for putting offsets in 2" diameter round stock while at red heat. We had made jigs or forms to rest the stock in and used a hand held top die to prevent the mark from the end piece on the screw shaft. I once straightened a piece of bar stock that was some kind of guide rail for some kind of equipment that was bent at all the mounting holes. I was able to press it back into shape cold and even pressed the stretched out holes round again. The owner of the part was so happy he gave me a $100 tip! I also saw that on Craig's list and thought about getting it but I am cramped for space being the tool pig that I am. It appears to have a "shoe" on the end of the screw that does not rotate and is guided by a slot in the frame.
  8. I clean stones in an ultrasonic cleaner with a good detergent and water. Put them in a plastic container so they do not vibrate through the tank of the cleaner.
  9. Gazz

    Working an inside a radius

    These are available with .25" and .125" shafts. https://www.google.com/search?q=mounted+points+grinding&rlz=1C1SAVS_enUS546US601&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjEmtDIxuXTAhVMxoMKHUE2AMsQ_AUICygC&biw=1920&bih=901 Also, are you removing scale before you attempt to shape the inside radius?
  10. Gazz

    Question about the Forged in Fire series

    Thanks for the responses. I would have thought the drawing out the hardness part would have been important to viewers but I guess only to those that work with metal - regular TV watchers would not care or qustion so much.
  11. Gazz

    forge tip

    I worked in a shop that allowed the employees to do do their own stuff after hours. One of the guys was getting ready for a Xmas craft show and was getting ready to paint his forged items but the spray cans would not work because of the extreme cold. He had the bright idea of putting them in front of the kerosene salamander type heater to warm them. After a few minutes he reached for one and just touching the now warm can caused it to let go. It blew the windows out of the shop, splattered black paint over everything and set him on fire. The slack tube was frozen over so he had to break the ice before jumping in.
  12. I recently had a chance to watch some of the forged in fire series and have a question about the hardening / heat treating. I watched maybe 10 episodes and and it seemed when it came timefor the contestants to harden blades, they were all dunked in in oil and many were withdrawn to dramatic displays of flaming steel. I get how the blade would have been hardened with the oil quench but I never saw anybody drawing the hardness out unless it was done with the flaming withdrawal. I have made a bunch of gun springs by wrapping the shaped part with iron wire, harden them in a oil quench and then after they have cooled, immerse them in the oil, remove and light. When the oil is burned off, I typically have a spring so I wonder if what I was seeing on the show (the flaming steel) was how the blades were drawn out since there was never anything shown like oven tempering or the method I use for making springs. I realize there is a good amount of stuff left out from editing or maybe for Hollywood type "this will wow them" with little regards to actual process but overall it seemed that what I saw was mostly good. It seems if the blades were left in the hardened state, there would have lots of failures during the testing. What do you folks think happened here?
  13. Gazz


    Brownells sells a product that is the consistency of a shampoo called Oxpho-Blue which works very well, better than all of the more liquid types that I have used but I haven't tried them all. I used to work in an ornamental iron shop and we used a Birchwood Casey black oxide product that worked very well on sandblasted steel but would rust if not neutralized with baking soda or some other base product. The most durable blue finish is a rust blue which is a little more involved to do but not hard to do. It will not leave a polished looking surface though and will be mat. I degrease, bead blast and apply the chemical (an acid) and then let the part sit in a very humid damp box. After a few hours or maybe a day depending on humidity, it will be red with rust. Card that off with a fine wire wheel and repeat the chemical application and the wire wheel carding. Keep doing this until you have reached the desired blue. I have done a few guns using the method and everybody who sees the end product is impressed with the finish.