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About Gazz

  • Birthday 04/10/1952

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    The usual stuff - metalworking, gunsmithing, arts and crafts stuff, history and whatever curious thing that may come my way.

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  1. My guess is that each individual wire is galvanized before it is bundled so getting any etchant to remove the galvanizing deep inside the bundle would be tough. Is the cable made of smaller bundles twisted together to make a larger one? If so, maybe a little unraveling would help. Muriatic acid works to dissolve galvanizing I believe.
  2. Gazz

    Oak for scales?

    Thanks for all the replies. The pieces I have are bits gleaned from my firewood cutting activities - sometimes it looks to interesting to burn so it goes in a pile in the garage. One of the pieces I have has a series of birdseye like features but just in a small area and would look good on a small knife.
  3. Years ago while in school studying metalsmithing, a fellow student made himself an attractive tool holder out of oak. He could keep all his needle files, punches, scribes and other small tools readily available while at the bench. Unfortunately after just a few days all his tools were heavily rusted where they contacted the oak. I have not seen this kind of thing again and also see folks here and other sites using oak for knife scales and wonder if they ever have this rusting issue. I do have a handsome small chunk of oak and think about using it but wonder if it will be a problem down the road. Anybody have any experience with this?
  4. Years ago I would make a metal that was named "spam metal" by my coworkers. I took bits of cleaned copper, brass and bronze wire and knotted them up into a ball or small puck. I would flux them and apply as much silver solder (high temp braze material) until it would take no more. Then I would roll the puck out with jewelers rolling mill, annealing the puck every few passes through the rolls. Slicing the puck and rotating the slices 90 degrees and then soldering back together again would make for some interesting patterns as would just grinding into it. The solder portion of it prevents it from forming or forging readily as it will crack if you do not anneal frequently. I had tried adding silver wire to the mix but when put silver and brass together you have to be careful you don't melt the whole mess due to eutectic properties of the metals. I still have some bits of it and will get some pictures posted.
  5. That's a shame. I think you have several options. 1. Mechanical fasteners - adding bolted on plates that bridge the cracks which would require drilling and tapping into the hammer body. You would need to be cautious about the drilled holes to be sure that metal chips or the bolts themselves do not interfere with the internal workings. Not the best solution but this kind of repair has been done before with success. 2. Braze - this would require complete disassembly of the hammer, preheat in either a large oven or by builing a fire in and around the hammer. The cracks would need to be grooved out or V'd and then filled with braze by oxy/acet torch. 3. Nickel Rod - similar to the above, the preheat is important. V out the cracks and electric weld with nickel rods. I think there are other newer tech rods available for this kind of thing as well. What is your hammer foundation like?
  6. Here is a link to more discussion on fly presses that you may find interesting; https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-and-history/fly-presses-still-alive-112963/
  7. In jewelry making, twisting wire is a standard method of getting it to harden. It will shorten the wire to some degree and also increase its diameter slightly. Another method is to pull it through a well lubricated draw plate but this decrease the diameter. Be aware that wire hardened in these ways, commonly called work hardening, will also make it a bit more brittle and will be prone to cracking or breaking if worked more, as in bent or forged.
  8. I have a 240V extension cord from my dryer outlet to my shop which is about 50' long. I don't recall the gauge of the wire (it came from a nuke plant which are rewired every few years just because) but it runs my rotary 3 phase converter made from a 5hp motor, a 60 gallon 6hp air compressor, a hypertherm plasma cutter and a Lincoln Idealarc 250 amp stick welder with no problem. However there is only one outlet in the shop so only one machine is run at a time. It has been this way for nearly 30 years with no problem. From the rotary phase converter, I run a lathe, milling machine and a large belt grinder but again, only one machine at a time as there is only one 3 phase outlet. I do have plans to upgrade the wiring and give the shop its own 100A panel which may actually happen this year.
  9. The Germans in WW2 used a thermo set plastic with wood chips in it for handgun grips and bayonet grips I believe. I have seen a similar product on current Czech produced firearms which looks very similar to what you have except it is a deep red color. This picture should give you an idea of what it looks like. Tough stuff I think.;
  10. I would make sure that the female part of the taper is clean. If there is a chip, a bit of rust or other debris in there it will never grip properly. (Do NOT put your finger in there and power the machine up - it will twist the finger right off your hand in less than the blink of an eye.) You can use steel wool or a scotch brite pad on a stick to get in there. The male part needs to be clean and free of rust as well. This you can clean with a fine stone if necessary. The Morse #2 taper is common on drill press spindles and you can purchase a #2 taper reamer to clean or freshen it up if required.
  11. It looks like a sword that was either broken or intentionally shortened to make a knife. I can imagine the guard was originally attached at the pommel as well and was a D guard sort of thing.
  12. I have cut many propane bottles with a torch and I'm still here. The older style bottles I would open the valve and leave outside in the sun upside down. Propane is heavier then air and will escape especially when the bottles are warmed by the sun. At night the bottle will cool and suck cool air in and the process is repeated the next day. After a few weeks or a month of this passive aspiration, I warm the bottle with a rosebud torch and after a bit I play the flame at the open valve. If it doesn't light, there is no propane left and I cut into it safely with the torch (or a grinder if that is what you have). The newer bottles have a valve with a three lobed valve handle or knob that require a fitting to be screwed into the valve to let the gas out. I scavanged a fitting with just a stub of the hose remaining off a gas grill from the curb for that purpose. The same process applies but you have to leave the scavanged fitting in until you have cut into it. A grinder spark or flame from a torch will ignite propane so the bottle has to be empty of flammable gas before you cut.
  13. Gazz

    Old tech new tech.

  14. It is like a large single tooth file. I have seen similar tools used to create fullers but nothing like this before. Who needs a belt grinder? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNPc6xBBiLk
  15. My mother gifted me a slaw cutter years ago. It works like a large upside down wood plane - https://www.google.com/search?q=slaw+cutter&sxsrf=ACYBGNSOleNr3jScO6opP_J8sts9XCQ9Mg:1572621788561&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwie2srYqMnlAhXiUt8KHS8SCM0Q_AUIEygC&biw=1920&bih=937#imgrc=oFBHrgdVbv2PVM: While not a hand held knife, it is an efficient way to cut the cabbage for either slaw or sauerkraut.
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