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About Gazz

  • Birthday 04/10/1952

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    The usual stuff - metalworking, gunsmithing, arts and crafts stuff, history and whatever curious thing that may come my way.

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  1. I keep my 1950 pickup truck in one bay of my 1920's built 3 car garage and the other two are my shop. I had thought about using cloth curtains treated with boric acid as a fire retardant to isolate the bay with the truck but instead built a wall. Check out this link for some info; http://www.americanborate.com/all-about-borates/borate-applications/borates-in-flame-retardants/ I do lots of grinding in my shop with an angle grinder and the spray goes everywhere. I have to be careful about leaves, rags, paper or sawdust - basically tinder so it has to be cleaned up. I have found tha
  2. Some polymers do that on their own. When I had a real job in high tech, I spent a lot of time in the engineering group and one of the engineers had received a sample set of of different polymers that were approximately 2" squares by about 3/16" thick all held together on a beaded chain. They were all different colors and had an identifying name and durometer printed on them. I ended up taking the samples home as I thought they might be useful for some craft project but years later I found them in a work bench drawer with about half of them melted and gooey between ones that remained intact.
  3. I think I see some lubrication cuts in the cylinder piece that you think is brass or bronze so probably a turning shaft of some kind. Could make a nice non marring hammer.
  4. A few years back, I bought a Delta Rockwell 14" saw off of Craigs list for $50. It was priced like that since it needed repair which turned out to be more involved than I thought but I'm still happy with it. It is both a wood cutting and metal cutting and has a multiple speed transmission to achieve that. I see working ones every now and then for sale at $300 to $700 as well. Deals are out there if you keep looking. A couple of months ago I saw a Doall saw (larger serious industrial quality) that needed repair on Craigs list for free!
  5. The threaded parts which I believe are adjusters for support columns used on sagging or bouncing floors are probably mild steel and would be forgeable but not good cutting tools. You would have to consider how the cut threads are going to work in to the forging or grind them away first. Could be interesting bottle openers.
  6. Big exhaust fan and a good dust mask would take of your problem. I used to work in a shop that had a coal forge, Nazel hammer, stick welder and several 9" pneumatic grinders wailing away day long. It got cold in there in upstate NY in the winter but I think the breathing air through the masks was okay - no black buggers if you wore your stuff or at least not real black. In CA, cold is not a real issue for you so get yourself a good exhaust fan and with good airflow don't overthink it. If I recall from your videos, you are in a business park in sort of a garage door sort of space. You nee
  7. They are amazing tools - plug it in, hook up your air and start cutting. They are not difficult to use and you will find the correct cutting speed by trial and error. The only problem I have with mine is spatter or roughness of the workpiece causes the torch to hang up so the cut is not always neat. For straight cuts I clamp a piece of angle iron to the workpiece and drag the edge of the torch along it and for discs or round pieces I use a piece of pipe or whatever I have on hand for the desired radius. Cutting freehand can be hard to do because of the hang up mentioned above and the influ
  8. My guess is that each individual wire is galvanized before it is bundled so getting any etchant to remove the galvanizing deep inside the bundle would be tough. Is the cable made of smaller bundles twisted together to make a larger one? If so, maybe a little unraveling would help. Muriatic acid works to dissolve galvanizing I believe.
  9. Thanks for all the replies. The pieces I have are bits gleaned from my firewood cutting activities - sometimes it looks to interesting to burn so it goes in a pile in the garage. One of the pieces I have has a series of birdseye like features but just in a small area and would look good on a small knife.
  10. Years ago while in school studying metalsmithing, a fellow student made himself an attractive tool holder out of oak. He could keep all his needle files, punches, scribes and other small tools readily available while at the bench. Unfortunately after just a few days all his tools were heavily rusted where they contacted the oak. I have not seen this kind of thing again and also see folks here and other sites using oak for knife scales and wonder if they ever have this rusting issue. I do have a handsome small chunk of oak and think about using it but wonder if it will be a problem down t
  11. Years ago I would make a metal that was named "spam metal" by my coworkers. I took bits of cleaned copper, brass and bronze wire and knotted them up into a ball or small puck. I would flux them and apply as much silver solder (high temp braze material) until it would take no more. Then I would roll the puck out with jewelers rolling mill, annealing the puck every few passes through the rolls. Slicing the puck and rotating the slices 90 degrees and then soldering back together again would make for some interesting patterns as would just grinding into it. The solder portion of it prevents i
  12. That's a shame. I think you have several options. 1. Mechanical fasteners - adding bolted on plates that bridge the cracks which would require drilling and tapping into the hammer body. You would need to be cautious about the drilled holes to be sure that metal chips or the bolts themselves do not interfere with the internal workings. Not the best solution but this kind of repair has been done before with success. 2. Braze - this would require complete disassembly of the hammer, preheat in either a large oven or by builing a fire in and around the hammer. The cracks would need
  13. Here is a link to more discussion on fly presses that you may find interesting; https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-and-history/fly-presses-still-alive-112963/
  14. In jewelry making, twisting wire is a standard method of getting it to harden. It will shorten the wire to some degree and also increase its diameter slightly. Another method is to pull it through a well lubricated draw plate but this decrease the diameter. Be aware that wire hardened in these ways, commonly called work hardening, will also make it a bit more brittle and will be prone to cracking or breaking if worked more, as in bent or forged.
  15. I have a 240V extension cord from my dryer outlet to my shop which is about 50' long. I don't recall the gauge of the wire (it came from a nuke plant which are rewired every few years just because) but it runs my rotary 3 phase converter made from a 5hp motor, a 60 gallon 6hp air compressor, a hypertherm plasma cutter and a Lincoln Idealarc 250 amp stick welder with no problem. However there is only one outlet in the shop so only one machine is run at a time. It has been this way for nearly 30 years with no problem. From the rotary phase converter, I run a lathe, milling machine and a larg
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