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Gazz

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About Gazz

  • Birthday 04/10/1952

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NH
  • Interests
    The usual stuff - metalworking, gunsmithing, arts and crafts stuff, history and whatever curious thing that may come my way.

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  1. As noted, it is worked cold in the annealed state. Depending on how tight your forging is, you may also want to pickle it then a quick rinse and rub with some pumice after every annealing to remove the oxide layer otherwise you drive the oxides into the metal when forging. This may not make a difference if your finished part needs to be heavily shaped with a grinder or file but will if you forge it to near net form or want to leave hammer marks in it.
  2. Rubber gas hose may work too. Probably other materials as well like tygon or polyurethane. Not sure if the sizes are small enough and axle rigidity would work for your purpose.
  3. Joshua mentioned an O/A welder or oxygen acetylene but didn't elaborate. One of these can be very versatile in the metal shop and could be used to weld stacks of material without adding filler or used with filler rod as cheap and readily available as an old coat hanger or with the alloy of your choice. Need to silver solder or braze something? It will handle it. A set also usually comes with a cutting torch which is also very handy. I have mine set up with an additional propane bottle for the oxygen/propane rosebud heating torch so if I need to make a quick localized heat I can. Very use
  4. Excellent information! Thank you! A friend of mine was interested in buying it but was wondering about the weld bead, as was I.
  5. I saw an anvil yesterday, a larger Haybudden maybe 250 pounds or more that had a band of neatly done weld bead about 6" wide around the waist. The anvil still had good rebound and ring but I wonder about the weld. I can't imagine a forged anvil (they are forged are they not?) breaking in the waist that would require welding. Does anybody here have any ideas why it was welded? Just seems improbable that it broke there.
  6. Having been in the gunsmithing and used gun parts business for many years, I disagree. Yes, fitting and or the use of epoxy bedding material may be required parts like these may be the only replacements available. i may be interested in buying smithing parts and tools. Where are you located?
  7. Might be worth more as replacement shotgun parts, especially if you know what guns they came from. I'm looking for a stock for an L.C. Smith and wonder if the one next to the forend pieces is what I need. Have any more pictures of it?
  8. Many of the longer WW1 US bayonets were shortened during WW2 and had tips that looked very much like the op's picture. Then after the Korean war, many bayonets were demilled by cutting off the blades in front of the guard so it may be knife made from one of the demills.
  9. Another thing you can do is to back the workpiece with another piece of steel. This way when you break through you are still drilling material. Again, rigidity is important. Bed rail is some tough stuff. I use it for building machine or sculpture bases and it kills drill bits immediately. If I need a bolt hole, it is rough cut with the torch.
  10. I have bought stuff from these folks so they send me emails regularly. This video came in the email today and is about making an ingot from silver scrap but will apply to other non ferrous stuff;
  11. As noted above, when using carbide drills, everything must be rigidly mounted, your workpiece clamped to the drill press table either in a vise clamped to the table or the part directly clamped. Forget about using them without breaking in a hand held drill motor so you must have a drill press. The other cause of breakage is when the drill begins to enter the farside of the part being drilled. The cutting edges can grab easily since there is less material being cut so feed pressure must be reduced. It is definitely a "feel" issue.
  12. You might want to try adding some flux to your melt. It will help to gather up oxides and crap.
  13. I have an older Index 745 milling machine that I bought for $400 plus another $200 to get it here about 15 years ago. It has step pulleys (note that early Bridgeports used step pulleys and later variable speed using a v-belt as did Index) which would be a bit of a headache in a production machine shop but I think in your case not such a big deal as it presents little problem for me. The machine has been well used but is still tight enough for my purposes. About 5 years ago, I responded to a craigs list ad for some kind of machine tool, I think a drill press, and while there the seller aske
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