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Dennis K

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Everything posted by Dennis K

  1. John , that's more like it but cut the top plate in three piece. Keep the ends and use the center piece for summing else, that way you will be able to see what's going on when you are rolling . Hope this helps Dennis K
  2. John, your top roller bearings need a top plate to take the load off the bearing mounting bolts or they will move causing a miss alignment of the rolls. This will curse your knife blanks to curve. Here’s a picture of a modification I had to make on my rolling mill. Hope this helps. . Dennis K
  3. John and Dave here’s a link to an old post with lots of pictures and discussion on my rolling mill. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=4652 Hope this helps Dennis K
  4. Yeah, if you live at the end of a runway you might get away with it. Dennis K
  5. First, beautiful blade, nice lines and shape, don't ruin it with a wood handle. Wood is a poor choice for a blade that may be used to butcher a large animal. Stag looks better and will last 50 years longer then wood and will give you a good gripe when thing gets slippery. I’d put a stag handle on it and a nice pommel with some weight to it for balance, and cut 3/8”off the long side of the guard . Dennis K
  6. Bill, very good start for your first cable knife .There is an informative tutorial on cable by Jim @ three sisters forge at pinned show and tell if you haven't read it . Here is a few things I learned the hard way . First, when welding cable, I find the cleaner the cable the better the weld . The tighter you twist the cable, the better the weld . The more borax the better the weld . The hotter the cable the better the weld . When forging the blade do it at welding temperature . Hope this helps, Dennis K.
  7. JJ, Go back and read old post from Geoff Keyes at tools and tool making on forges that should help .The first forge I built had 1/4”steel doors but the fist time I fired it off, I realized that steel is a poor choice for doors on a forge. Firebrick is the best material for forge doors. All you have to do is stack the brick to form doors. Hope this helps, Dennis K
  8. Greg, companies who sell pneumatic equipment can answer your questions about airflow Cv factor. Start with the air cylinder and decide what size you’re going to use. For a 50 to 75 pound hammer you need a 2”x 10” cylinder and a 2.9 CV control valve. For a 100 pound hammer a 2-1/2”x12” cylinder and a 4.0 Cv valve should work. A 125 pound hammer with a 3”x14”cylinder with 1” ports needs at lest a 5.5 Cv control valve with 1”ports and a lot of air. Do a Google search for Kinyon style air hammer. Again, visit my website htttp://www.actionpistol.net under photos. This should help anyone building a hammer. hope this helps, Dennis K
  9. Greg, Thanks for bringing the post back up. I bought a new air compressor in 1994 for my shop. It’s a Speedaire 7.5 HP 80 gallon and at 175 PSI it has 25 CFM. Since steel is only workable for less than a minute between heats, a 5 HP compressor should be sufficient for cable knives and 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 6” pattern welded Damascus billets. Hope this helps. Dennis K
  10. John, Go to “Tools and tool making on page 12, dated 12-17-2007; there is a discussion on the Kinyon Style Air Hammer that I built. You will see pictures as well as the air valve schematic. If you have a question please post them on this old post that way this post will go to the top of the page. Visit My Website and under the photo gallery you will find a sub gallery with hammers and forging equipment. There are more photos of my air hammer and other equipment. Hope this helps. Dennis K
  11. Tate their is a discussion and pictures on steel rolling mills, on the 10th of January 2008 page 10 of tools and tool making, hope this helps. Dennis K
  12. I scored a 50 pound bag of low temperature nitrate salts, so its time I build a salt pot. I've read everything I can find on salt pots but I still have questions. Stainless steel pipe is hard to find, can I use black iron pipe instead? How corrosive are nitrate salts? Would 3/8”wall x 4” ID aluminum pipe work for low temperature nitrate salts? Aluminum melts at 1218f, so if I temper 350 f to 585 f, with an adjustable low flame gas heater, theoretically a 3/8”wall aluminum pipe should work, or am I missing something? Any help on this subject would be appreciated. Dennis K
  13. It looks like this is going to happen and I will be buying approximately 1 metric ton of 5160. I'll post the details on how to obtain this in the near future. Stay tuned! Dennis
  14. It looks like this is going to happen and I will be buying approximately 1 metric ton of 5160. I'll post the details on how to obtain this in the near future. Stay tuned! Dennis
  15. I have opportunity for anyone interested in purchasing 5160 spring steel. These are brand new, formed coil springs in 3/4" Dia. x 14" and weigh approx. 15.7 - 16lbs ea. They were supposed to be LH turned and the mfg. screwed up and turned them RH. Since they are mounted in a cast puck they are useless and must be scrapped. I am trying to figure out if it's worth buying 2400 lbs. of this steel and selling it for $1.25 to a $1.50 .lb plus shipping if I can negotiate it. Please give me some feedback, Are you interested?
  16. Brian you said the your bandsaw steel was 12’ wide x 5/32 thick are you sure its that thick ? The 15n20 that I have is 12” wide x 1.2 mm or 90. thousandths of a inch thick I have some 14” 15n20 its 100. thousandths of a inch thick or 1.5 mm. Any steel you get from a sawmill is most likely 15n20 or 8670 m for modified 2% nickel and .50 chromium, treat it like L6. Heat it to nonmagnetic, then quench the hole blade in 130f oil then temper one hour at 350f. The edge should roll a little, If your going to try to drill a hole in 15n20 or 8670m anneal it like L6. Brian make friends with the millwright at the mill (bribe him with donuts and make him a knife that is wait I did). hope this helps, Dennis
  17. Brian where did you get your 15n20 from ? Was it precut or a piece of bandsaw with teeth ? Where do you live, maybe I can send you some real 15n20 since I have 1200 ponds in my shop . Dennis
  18. Hi Brian, Lumber mill band saw steel should be uddeholm 15n20, if what you have is 15n20 it should harden in air; to the point that you can not drill a hole in it. I quench 15n20 in use fryer oil at 130f and a file will skate over it, you do not have to temper 15n20. Just heat it up to non magnetic for two minutes then quench it in oil and it is done. Hope this helps Dennis
  19. S7 is an air hardening steel and 1095 is not. They are two different steels and don't mix well. The forging temperature for S7 is 2050 -F and anything lower than 1700-F it will start to harden. Hope this helps Dennis K Knives & Machines www.actionpistol.net
  20. Shinobituazon, you need to get the cable bright red to twist it and bright yellow, almost white to weld it and as Jake said, “flux the hell out of it.” When I hand weld cable I use a 7- pound hammer or my air hammer. It’s hard to over do it with a hand hammer. Thanks for your reply to my post at Metallurgy and Emiamas on hada steel . Here’s a link to my web site www.actionpistol.net When you get there click on Knife making . Dennis K. P.S. The website is being overhauled but you should find it easily enough.
  21. [Does anyone have any experience welding up cable on a power hammer? Like bring to welding heat, then keeping the hammer running while twisting it in appropriate direction? I've got some large hunks of 1 3/4" that would be so much easier to weld up in that manner. Edgarfigaro Yes a power hammer is the only way to go with cable over 1-1/8" I forged welded 2" cable on my air hammer by twisting it in the appropriate direction and it welds up just fine. Dennis k
  22. I Like used peanut oil, My shop smells like a restaurant and the best part is the oil is free . Dennis K
  23. I have question . How many layers of folded cable does it take to mimic traditional Japanese hada steel. I have started making kartanas and I wood like to make one that looks like the real thing . Dennis k Knives and Machines actionpistol.net
  24. It tough to tell what type of steel you have with out heat treating a piece first and testing it. Judging from the shininess of the weathered steel in the photo and the teeth being brazed on it. It could be 4140, which does not have enough carbon to make a good knife, but it has over 1% chromium, so save it for a damascus billet or steel to practice with. Most large industrial one piece circular saw blades were the teeth are not brazed on, is 8670 modified not L6, which is vary rare because it has not been manufactured in a long time. A lot of knifes have been made out of L6 from Admiral, but its really 8670; It’s close and just as good for knifes, 8670 dose not look shiny when weathered as your photo dose. Because its lower on chromium then 4140, but high in nickel. I have a ton of different types of saw mill blades in my shop so I have some experience on this subject. Hope this helps Dennis
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