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shinobituazon

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About shinobituazon

  • Birthday 06/25/1973

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    Balagtas, Bulacan, Philippines
  1. So how do you blacken a blade using rainwater? Plenty of rain here in the Philippines.
  2. Brian, My procedure was exactly like yours. I used a super saturated Hydrogen peroxide(20 volumes), heat it up and added salt. Then I shake it. I added more salt till no more will dissolve. Then added a an ounce of white vinegar. Then I warm the concoction again, and put it in a spray bottle. I sprayed the blade, let it foam up for about a minute. Then I rinse it. This cycle was repeated several times until it had an even coating of red rust. I had no distilled water that time, so I just used tap water to boil the rusted blade. These are progress pictures of the blade: After draw filing After the heat treat/oil quench This is the blade after boiling note: the this picture was taken a month after the blade has been rusted, and yesterday was my 2nd attempt at boiling it. I thought of burning the blade with a blow torch, edge soaked in water. But it would take a lot of heat to oxidize the rust and turn it black. That will surely ruin the HT.
  3. Hi Jake, After boiling it for 10 minutes, the rusted blade did not turn black at all. It's still red rust. The thick rust is still intact, and after I let it sit in my shop for a month, I tried boiling it again yesterday, this time for 15 minutes. Still red rust after that. If this doesn't work out at all, what do you think I should do with the existing rust on the blade? can I heat it up a bit and rub black beeswax on it? kinda like a texture or something. I don't want this blade shiny at all. It's supposed to be a tactical knife. Thanks
  4. Hi Everyone, I tried Mr. Brian Vanspeybroeck's technique on steel blackening, but it doesn't seem to work on my blade. I followed the steps: rusting(this worked perfectly), then boiling. The only thing I didn't follow is using distilled water for boiling. I used tap water instead. Was this the culprit? By the way, I'm trying to blacken a hardened 5160 blade, instead of iron fittings which the original topic discussed(I can't find that post anymore). I need your advice Mr. Brian Vanspeybroeck. Or if anyone else has experience with this, please pitch in. Thanks in advance. -shinobi
  5. Well, here it is, my new post anvil named "Ruben". I got rid most of the pits in the face, so it's almost flat. I guess it's fine like that. This is rock solid, compared to my old London style anvil which feels "hollow" everytime you strike it. After I applied epoxy primer.
  6. Thanks for the replies. It seems everyone favored it being buried on the ground. That seems like a sound idea, but the main reason I opted for the Sea Robin style is because my shop is perched on top our septic tank, which makes digging for a hole impossible. My work area is also very small, so a portable anvil which I can move around is convenient. Most of the stuff from the scrap yard came from Clark. They have all sorts of cool stuff there. Machine shops here only have large power hacksaws, but that only took an inch deep off that chunk, then it stopped biting. Then I found a 14" chopsaw. So, I finally succeeded in cutting this behemoth with the help of a friend and Mr. Makita. It was a slow process because the thing is through-hardened. I sprayed water on the cut so it does not overheat. Since we rotate the block every so often to get an efficient cutting angle, the surface became uneven and needed dressing with the angle grinder. The anvil face after being polished with a 60grit sand paper with wood backing. There are still shallow pits that are really hard to remove, because the sandpaper can only do so much on a hardened surface. You think this will work fine already?
  7. Hello Gentlemen, I'm building a Post anvil, since my old one turned out to be a dud. The Sea Robin style is what I'm after, though I plan on making its height fixed. I bought this steel block for $115 (Php 5,500) at the scrap yard. The guy said it came from the old Clark air base in Pampanga, Philippines, and is already hardened. Anyway, I plan on cutting it to my knuckle length using an angle grinder. Gonna be spending a lot of time with Mr. Makita. Then weld 4pcs. 17" long angle bars to a 0.75cm thick steel base. This will tightly hold the post in place. Question is, is this enough? Will it work fine? Does it look sturdy? Do I need to put a block of wood (grains vertical) underneath the post? Or loose contact with the steel base is enough? I need advice. Thanks in advance! -shinobi
  8. After 3 Tantos, 2 Filipino style fighters--some left unfinished and some cracked, and almost 3 years of beating junkyard steel... I finally completed a knife. From blade, handle furniture, to sheath--all made by me. Blade is 5.5" long, hand forged from a large 5160 truck leaf spring, quenched in used Jollibee oil(the equivalent of McDonald's here). Polished to 1000 grit. Bolster / guard carved from a large stock of brass, polished to 1000. Handle is from a large chunk of 100-year old Molave(Mulawin) wood. The design was inspired by Mr. Andersen's fabulous work. Rubbed with linseed oil for protection. Tang peened over a copper washer. Sheath is made of water buffalo hide, hence the large pores. Beaten copper clip inspired by Mr. Wieland's work. Okay, since Sam Salvati is no longer the president of the NFC, who do I send this to? :lol:
  9. I think that could be what the Japanese call "Utsuri". A photo would help though.
  10. Thanks you so much Sir Mike. These are very helpful. I plan to make a simple bottle jack press, similar to what Mr. Thunder made (http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=9932&st=0), and retro fit it with different mated die set-ups to speed things up. I've already constructed a power hammer based on Mr. Gentile's "Krusty" plans, it worked well and I'm confident that I can also build a press. The plan is to start really small, sort of testing the waters, then work my way up, building more mass production equipment as necessary. My cousin who took over his late mothers business told me that the market is good, and the only competition we would have are imported stuff, and stuff that are stolen from telecom companies by some of their rivals, and sold cheap. Is it okay to bend mild steel cold? Or do I need to heat them to red for them to take a set? Are there available bolts that would fit them? Or do I custom make them also? I really need more info on this. Thanks, -shinobi
  11. Gentlemen, I'm going to try my hand at fabricating pole hardware and accessories (telecommunications type) using my small forge. This will be more of blacksmithing rather than bladesmithing which this forum is really about, so please pardon this topic. These are sample items: You guys are the only persons I know I can turn to. People here are shrewd and territorial businessmen who will guard any information they have on these. only thing I know is that they are hot-dip galvanized. I just want to ask if anyone here knows what steel these things are made of. And if they are hardened. Some information on the net describe them as made from mild steel, industrial steel, or just plain "steel". My aunt made a living by trading and selling these. She died in a car crash last saturday before I can even open up the idea of forging these, so I can help her business, and maybe someday help myself too. Going full time making pole equipment, and doing blades on the sidelines seems like a good idea. Thank you so much. -shinobi
  12. I guess you guys are right about availability here in the Philippines. We do have zinc suppliers, but unfortunately, they will only sell in large volumes, so they probably won't listen to a small time customer like me. And since there are kids around the house and neighbors close by, it will surely be a health hazard. My best bet is to go to a galvanizing plant and have them hot dipped. Thanks for the replies. -shinobi
  13. Hello gentlemen, I know this is not a knife-related topic (so feel free to delete this, sir Don), but I'm just hoping someone here might know anything about Hot-dip galvanizing. Is it simple enough to be done at my small shop/forge? Are the equipment simple enough to be fabricated? Are zinc fumes a safety issue here? I mean as blade-smiths, we do not burn galvanized steel. But from a bit of searching, 860 °F of molten zinc doesn't sound good to me. I need to know how to do this on small pieces of forged pole equipment. Thank you so much, -shinobi
  14. Is Ray Park left-handed? Or is that image flipped horizontally? He's got his left hand below the right on that Katana. Just wondering. Cool pix!
  15. Just saw your reply. I already tempered for a 2nd time at 400F this morning, then polished up to 1000 grit. Well maybe I can do another temper next weekend, just to be sure. Thanks for the advice. The cross-section was so small(only a millimeter or less broke off), that I cannot see the grain. I did wish I that I had one of 'em magnifying glasses. This blade was normalized 3x after forging, so I'm hoping that that made the grains fine. This will be officially my first finished blade. If I do finish it. I hope.
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