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Everything posted by shinobituazon

  1. Hello Jonathan,


    Are you still here?


    Haven't opened this forum for more than 10 years na yata. Tumigil nako sa Bladesmithing nung naging busy na sa work at naglakihan mga anakis.


    Nakapagstart ka na ba sa scaled katana mo?

  2. So how do you blacken a blade using rainwater? Plenty of rain here in the Philippines.
  3. Brian, My procedure was exactly like yours. I used a super saturated Hydrogen peroxide(20 volumes), heat it up and added salt. Then I shake it. I added more salt till no more will dissolve. Then added a an ounce of white vinegar. Then I warm the concoction again, and put it in a spray bottle. I sprayed the blade, let it foam up for about a minute. Then I rinse it. This cycle was repeated several times until it had an even coating of red rust. I had no distilled water that time, so I just used tap water to boil the rusted blade. These are progress pictures of the blade: After dr
  4. Hi Jake, After boiling it for 10 minutes, the rusted blade did not turn black at all. It's still red rust. The thick rust is still intact, and after I let it sit in my shop for a month, I tried boiling it again yesterday, this time for 15 minutes. Still red rust after that. If this doesn't work out at all, what do you think I should do with the existing rust on the blade? can I heat it up a bit and rub black beeswax on it? kinda like a texture or something. I don't want this blade shiny at all. It's supposed to be a tactical knife. Thanks
  5. Hi Everyone, I tried Mr. Brian Vanspeybroeck's technique on steel blackening, but it doesn't seem to work on my blade. I followed the steps: rusting(this worked perfectly), then boiling. The only thing I didn't follow is using distilled water for boiling. I used tap water instead. Was this the culprit? By the way, I'm trying to blacken a hardened 5160 blade, instead of iron fittings which the original topic discussed(I can't find that post anymore). I need your advice Mr. Brian Vanspeybroeck. Or if anyone else has experience with this, please pitch in. Thanks in advance. -
  6. Well, here it is, my new post anvil named "Ruben". I got rid most of the pits in the face, so it's almost flat. I guess it's fine like that. This is rock solid, compared to my old London style anvil which feels "hollow" everytime you strike it. After I applied epoxy primer.
  7. Thanks for the replies. It seems everyone favored it being buried on the ground. That seems like a sound idea, but the main reason I opted for the Sea Robin style is because my shop is perched on top our septic tank, which makes digging for a hole impossible. My work area is also very small, so a portable anvil which I can move around is convenient. Most of the stuff from the scrap yard came from Clark. They have all sorts of cool stuff there. Machine shops here only have large power hacksaws, but that only took an inch deep off that chunk, then it stopped biting. Then I
  8. Hello Gentlemen, I'm building a Post anvil, since my old one turned out to be a dud. The Sea Robin style is what I'm after, though I plan on making its height fixed. I bought this steel block for $115 (Php 5,500) at the scrap yard. The guy said it came from the old Clark air base in Pampanga, Philippines, and is already hardened. Anyway, I plan on cutting it to my knuckle length using an angle grinder. Gonna be spending a lot of time with Mr. Makita. Then weld 4pcs. 17" long angle bars to a 0.75cm thick steel base. This will tightly hold the post in place. Q
  9. After 3 Tantos, 2 Filipino style fighters--some left unfinished and some cracked, and almost 3 years of beating junkyard steel... I finally completed a knife. From blade, handle furniture, to sheath--all made by me. Blade is 5.5" long, hand forged from a large 5160 truck leaf spring, quenched in used Jollibee oil(the equivalent of McDonald's here). Polished to 1000 grit. Bolster / guard carved from a large stock of brass, polished to 1000. Handle is from a large chunk of 100-year old Molave(Mulawin) wood. The design was inspired by Mr. Andersen's fabulous work. Rubbed with linseed
  10. I think that could be what the Japanese call "Utsuri". A photo would help though.
  11. Thanks you so much Sir Mike. These are very helpful. I plan to make a simple bottle jack press, similar to what Mr. Thunder made (http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=9932&st=0), and retro fit it with different mated die set-ups to speed things up. I've already constructed a power hammer based on Mr. Gentile's "Krusty" plans, it worked well and I'm confident that I can also build a press. The plan is to start really small, sort of testing the waters, then work my way up, building more mass production equipment as necessary. My cousin who took over his late mothers bu
  12. Gentlemen, I'm going to try my hand at fabricating pole hardware and accessories (telecommunications type) using my small forge. This will be more of blacksmithing rather than bladesmithing which this forum is really about, so please pardon this topic. These are sample items: You guys are the only persons I know I can turn to. People here are shrewd and territorial businessmen who will guard any information they have on these. only thing I know is that they are hot-dip galvanized. I just want to ask if anyone here knows what steel these things are made of. And if the
  13. I guess you guys are right about availability here in the Philippines. We do have zinc suppliers, but unfortunately, they will only sell in large volumes, so they probably won't listen to a small time customer like me. And since there are kids around the house and neighbors close by, it will surely be a health hazard. My best bet is to go to a galvanizing plant and have them hot dipped. Thanks for the replies. -shinobi
  14. Hello gentlemen, I know this is not a knife-related topic (so feel free to delete this, sir Don), but I'm just hoping someone here might know anything about Hot-dip galvanizing. Is it simple enough to be done at my small shop/forge? Are the equipment simple enough to be fabricated? Are zinc fumes a safety issue here? I mean as blade-smiths, we do not burn galvanized steel. But from a bit of searching, 860 °F of molten zinc doesn't sound good to me. I need to know how to do this on small pieces of forged pole equipment. Thank you so much, -sh
  15. Is Ray Park left-handed? Or is that image flipped horizontally? He's got his left hand below the right on that Katana. Just wondering. Cool pix!
  16. Just saw your reply. I already tempered for a 2nd time at 400F this morning, then polished up to 1000 grit. Well maybe I can do another temper next weekend, just to be sure. Thanks for the advice. The cross-section was so small(only a millimeter or less broke off), that I cannot see the grain. I did wish I that I had one of 'em magnifying glasses. This blade was normalized 3x after forging, so I'm hoping that that made the grains fine. This will be officially my first finished blade. If I do finish it. I hope.
  17. While polishing a camp knife, the blade fell into the water tub, and a millimeter of the tip broke off. I repaired it by grinding it back to shape, but I'm wondering it if it's still too hard and needs a second tempering. Blade is made from leaf spring, about 8" in length, tempered in oil for an hour at 380F - 400F. Is it ok to temper again even if it has a sharp edge and polished to 400 grit? Here is the blade before I ground the edge on, and before the tip broke.
  18. I've always wondered how those tang ends were made into round rods in preparation for threading. I can forge and file them to shape, but that would not make a precision round rod. Those of you familiar with Mr. Karl Andersen's fabulous take downs should know what I mean. Does it really need to be a perfect rod? Or would the threading die do that during threading? Thanks in advance for the replies. -shinobi
  19. Those are gorgeous. We have an endless supply of used 5160 leaf springs here in the Philippines, and are cheap. If only I'm not in the other side of the world, I would gladly trade them for those beauties.
  20. I second this. I remember a post (can't remember if it's here or some other forum) not long ago from a knife maker who received a letter from a customer. This guy was supposed to commission a knife from him, but decided to go for another knife maker 'coz he has a long list. The knife is for his son in law, who will be sent to Iraq. During an ops, a fellow soldier decided on a sneaky knife attack, and burrowed the guys knife. The blade broke, and it cost the soldier's life. Forgive me if the knife maker I'm referring to is aboard this forum, and I got the story wrong. This is just
  21. Thank you gentlemen. I plan to make another billet to add to this, instead of just folding it. I will also try to do the initial welds on a bench vise. I think the constant pressure exerted by the vice is more effective at welding than just hand hammering it. Or maybe i just lack experience at banging cable damascus billets, unlike most of you guys. Well maybe a bit more practice and I'll get it. Thanks again. -shinobi
  22. Now that I'm done with the twisting part, this is what became of that 1 inch, 1 foot cable. Thanks for all those who chimed in at my first cable thread. This is after a first pass on the grinder. I noticed that there are shallow gaps along the billet. These are from the strand twist direction. I assume that they can be ground off totally, but I don't want to remove too much material. Will this be a problem when I fold this onto itself? Will it help If I flatten it further on the power hammer, before folding? Thanks in advance. -shinobi
  23. I had a similar post on folding cables, but mine dealt with basic problems I encountered (I'm still learning 'em cables). I almost completely forgot why I thought of folding cables, but after Jesus posted on my thread about twisting the stuff, I remembered this: http://www.arscives.com/bladesignnew/jeffl...zashimaking.htm Since cable is easily acquired here in the Philippines (and the ONLY steel here that can produce hamon), this project inspired me so much. Check out also Jim's tutorial on cable: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=7696 I suppose you just need to
  24. Now this is outrageous. As artists/craftsmen, I feel that we should guard our craft from being eroded by these so-called "craftsmen". If we were to look at Japan's NTBHK standards, it is clear that their efforts to preserve the craft of the Japanese sword has made it possible for the Katana to survive the ages--untainted by the use of modern machinery. I believe that we are no different from them. As an Art Director in the graphic arts industry, I often come across people who proclaim themselves as "graphic artists", just because they know how to use Adobe Photoshop. When a pro
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