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Everything posted by J.Browne

  1. That is exactly what I’m doing at the moment. watching your one to see how it works out in a drum style HT forge. I was toying with idea of using the deice duct like a radiant style diffuser as the jets on that are only about 1/2 long and taper from 3/16 down to .062” and couldn’t work out how to keep the manifold cool enough to stop back firing if I repurposed it as a ribbon burner manifold / long bbq burner.
  2. I have been researching ribbon burners and am currently putting together a natural aspirated one from a heap of info from another site where other guys have done some pretty cool research and testing on .
  3. Do you plan on having the whole manifold inside the forge? Or just the tips set back a little from the lining as in a traditional burner mount?
  4. Will be curious to see how this works out. From time to time we scrap deicing ducts at work that look very similar to what you made and I have had similar thoughts about how they would work in a drum forge. But haven’t had the time to experiment.
  5. After a rather long break from knife making due too life and other priorities getting in the way I’m finally setting up all my gear again. However over my time off I have developed an elbow injury, a bone spur in my right elbow that is causing all sorts of grief. I have full function but reduced strength and it’s ok-ish most of the time, if I’m mindful of technique and ergonomics of tooling. But that has been a trial and error process with mixed results. So I’m looking for a little advice on things like bench heights, grinder heights etc from people who have munted elbows.... ch
  6. I can now see why there was a slight delay getting this DVD out. The amount of time, effort and information that was packed into this , and the rest of the series, is outstanding and very much appreciated Walter. It basically answers nearly every single question that I could have about your process. And for me is one of the most valuable learning tools available to those interested in Japanese styled blades short of actually taking lessons, this is the cheaper option for us on the other side of the world. Bravo Sir !
  7. Move out of home ! If you cant then you should probably respect their wishes.
  8. Thankyou for the reminder Alan. Sent a small donation ( damn exchange rate ) that is in no way representitve of the amount of information I have been able to gleen from here . Hopefully it can be of some use to Don and the great place that he has provided for us.
  9. Work shop pics ? Hell yes !

  10. No Beaches to speak of on Christmas Island mate ( unless there is more than one Christmas island in the world ) . Lots of cliffs that dont stop till they hit the ocean floor .... a loooooonnngggg way down. Bloody red crabs everywhere , and detention centres for illegal imigrants Sounds tops. Fishing is outstanding , and the diving is amazing but Maldives is where you wanna be if you want the sand .
  11. Thanks Niko for taking the time to show that. It answers alot of questions for me about the style.
  12. There arent a whole heap of Aussie bladesmiths full stop .
  13. Jamie are those blanks available for sale now ? Gday Forrest good to see another Aussie.
  14. The cheapest and easiest guide to hardness testing are these http://www.tsubosan.co.jp/english/info/oth...duct06.html#860 (scroll to the bottom of the page.) Accurate enough for the hobbiest ,unless you can get hold of a calibrated machine.
  15. Thanks for the link. That made me smile. Check out "Cold forging ??" that right there is gold . I must be a bad tradesman (Aviation sheetmetal) because I use different terms to what he does and get different results. I hang my head in shame !
  16. Now that is very cool. I love the worm. Nice job.
  17. I am not overly experienced with fly presses and only really used mine for the first time in anger this weekend. But that being said I love my P5. As for down sides every tool has its limitations and it's really up to you what the primary job for it will be. Noise and portability (as portable as a 200kg lump of metal is) were high on the list of requirements for me it passes with flying colours, in comparison to a power hammer or hydraulic press. The main jobs I got it for were slotting, punching , drifting work and drawing material out. The first three the flypress excells at. Drawing
  18. Thankyou both for your help. After some practice on some small pieces. I have found that I am using WAY too much flux and rod along with the bad fit issue and poor heat distribution (no wonder the joints look and perform badly). I will make up a small tray/stand on the weekend to take the bolts and try tinning them and add filler if required....failing that I will tin both joints. I will let you know how I get on. Cheers.
  19. Thanks Bruce. Looking at the failed head I had a huge gap from the head markings of the bolt that I failed to grind off, and there is lots of rubbish between the joint. So I will break the joints and clean them up and try again How I did it last time was flux both surfaces put a coil of braze in between the bolt and the tool head load it all up in a temporary fire brick forge and turn on my forge burner. Switch it off when the bolt settled onto the tool head. Would it be better to sweat it on? If so how do you make a sweated joint ? Here is a slot punch that was done with Mapp and
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