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me miller

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Everything posted by me miller

  1. Beau the knife in the article tells you how nice Chuck Ward taking a picture makes your work look that much better.
  2. Looks good but why did you use a sereated wheel for a drive wheel? I would find you a smooth one and use that sereated wheel as a hogging wheel to remove material faster when in the rough grits. It would really work a lot better then move to the smooth wheel to define your finish. Mike
  3. Beau I would go to your local welding store and they will have the sticks and flux you should need for hard solder. most places sell it by the stick or pound. It also depends on size of your knife but I have soldered stainless steel nuts on to butcaps to do it. propane torches will not get it hot enough.
  4. Best I have used for knife work is the 3M 967 Cubitron .i have beveled and tapered up to 28 blades with one belt. They are best on high speed grinders and just push hard to break the grit down to keep grinding.
  5. Alan I think that every part of the country had these styles. I was raised in the Rolling Green Hills of Northern Missouri and my uncle and grandfather made the same kinds. unfortunately I did not start making until both were gone. I was lucky enough that I do have grandads anvil which had been heavily used. They made due with what they had. Mike
  6. Really like the shape of the blade and the handle work.
  7. It is my opinion that you could get a better temp if you added some kaowool to the sides or its equivalent. hard brick take a lot of heat to keep up to temp and you could go higher with a better insulation material. Mike
  8. K&G Knife supply in Arizona has a broad band of coloring agents that you mix with the epoxy for the pins. Really makes them look great. Itseemsto me that it does makes the setting time longer when you add the color agent to it. MR. ATWOOD is correct that is the place to find all the pieces. BUT if you have a model or airplane kit supply store that will also have the pieces, then you can go in and fit the pieces together to make sure you have the right combinations to work. Mike
  9. Beau is this your oil forge??? it looks like you are dripping? something into it. Veg or or waste cooking oil.Mike
  10. I use one of the milk house heater from Atwoods and so far I have been very happy. My shop is 10 by 20 and is insulated but has kept warm by the heater. Mike
  11. You might try Mike George in Alva, Oklahoma . he had a 50 or a 100 for sale that he was selling due to his health. 580-327-5235 OR CELL 580-829-1968
  12. James Poplin in Georgia has about the best prices I have found. he will work with you and let you know which belt is best for your application. Mike
  13. You need to check out how Wayne Goddard does a hollow grind on his flat platten. Basically make a curved section for the belt to run over added to the flat platten. That would give you a hollow to do into the side of the blade. Will work if you don't have any other means. Mike
  14. Try www.popsknifesupplies.com James will helpyou out for what your need. The Cuitron yellow belts work the best. I have ground up to 28 D2 knife blades on one belt. Best time to callis 5 to 8 PM HE'S IN gEORGIA.
  15. Email sent with the ones from Batsons Mike
  16. First thing I would tell you is to glue it to your spacer material to help keep it solid. Find some super thin super glue and as you work it use it to help keep it together. Do not over heat work slowly and let it cool in between grinding. I lay it on aluminum in between to help disapate the heat. It will really turn out nice but you have to work it with tender care.
  17. I like the second and the last shot. Very nice pictures. A totally different bird than we see in our part of the country. Thanks for the pictures. Mike
  18. Al Pendray had an article in "Blade" where he had a double set of fullering dies which he used with atrip hammer on one of his wootz blades. You are right in that it took a lot of cleanup work with hand tools to accomplish it.
  19. I would say that you are not getting the outer wires welded before you are trying to twost. My method was to weld both ends first then heat the whole length then twist. Make sure that after you twist then take it asection at a time and work it to get those indiviaual wires welded.
  20. Chris several places to look are Doug Ponzio, Chris MARKS, or Chad Nicholls.
  21. Your 1084 and the 15n20 have a better mix to weld together. They are basically the same steel except the 15n20 has the nickel in it sothat your expansion is the same during the heat treating. Both being hihg carbon would allow a lower weling temptoget them tostick together.
  22. One nice rusty that I have used had the base from a railroad car axle. A solid 5 or 6 inch piece of steel which worked very well. Mike
  23. I think I would spray it with Neatlac or something similar. Spray so you don't have any rubbing on the gold leaf then should be good.
  24. Check out belgar crane either Tulsa or OKC. I used to have a friend at Tulsa and he would cut off pieces that had to unspool because of kinks in the cable. They had to get rid of it because the rains would polute the street washing the cable off. If you have any drilling companies in town they also have short lengths or have pulled some cable at drill sites. I should tell you also if you are ever in the El Reno area WE COULD COIL UP ABOUT 10 FOOT FOR OUT BACK OF MY SHOP. mIKE
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