Jaro Petrina

That could be very usefull. Thanks

I have 5 kw armored electric motor laying around.

I would precut with angle grinder and then just file it by hand, its not that much work, with annealed steel.

Its my favorite poem, being (when young) of naval disposition.

The rotary parts need to be turned and such. But the one with the straight spring is much easier to do.

I dont think so, they usually have smaller lift of the ram, so when you use tooling over the dies it needs to be designed quite flat. Also I would make the main spring bearing bronze in steel like here, not the usual cast iron/ball bearing. Thats the only thing I would seriously consider spending money. If you look, you might find and buy the electric motor geared down, which would make the transmition job really simple one.

Going through my archives I found this internet picture. That is simplier that a machine with a frontal crank, I suppose it could be cobbled together rather easy.

I built one and it was quite bit of a work. I assume if you dont have time for trip, the build is off. But why not look the clasifieds for older littler giant or something similar. Cannot be that much money?

"but then it has belts and was designed to run on relatively low power input by use of a flywheel." Yes, that would complicate my build, I would have to implement a clutch between the flywheel and the crank. Not impossible, but costly. I also need to add some counterweights - I have one smaller for the crank itself and another for the car tyre. That would improve things One thing though - it beats now with much more authority.

Swapped burned out 1,1 kW motor on my hammer to a 3KW. Needed some tinkering. The new plate and drilling of the primary wheel as the axle is bigger. That should run for a while, its a beast.

It looks like it had some broken back actually, altough the overall shape is corroded to tell exactly.

If you saw that handle on todays reenactment stuff, it would get scorned. Its pretty carving, but not altogether what we thought for most part. I also have an impression from one of the 7. century seaxes with parts of handle preserved, that it had an ergonomic handle, quite like a modern machete.

What I do for doors are going to be two firebricks on a rail system. That should work. I have meanwhile tried to heat steel and it works like a charm, goes to good temperatures etc. Its abit gas hungry, I think it has something to do with setting, I havent used this type of forge yet. But its also big burner and big forge. So......

Absolutelly stable and bloody scary. Now for the doors.