Jaro Petrina

Well that is rather brutal, but I dig the big grinding wheels.

Yeah, usually quite easy to screw something up.

Thats the biggest difference between the press and power hammer I have noticed.

Guys, I want to make me bevel dies. The idea is to preforge as much as I can on the machine, because I dont usually have that much time and my hands are not in the best shape. Does anybody has something like that? Thanks for ideas.

Didnt thought of that

Our 5160 will take 880 C which is even slightly more than you suggest. I only temper once and dont care for time, just go for pretty collours. (For chopper I end up with first violet straks in the dark brownish surface). With choppers very reasonable combination of toughness and hardness can be achieved. I had one of my friends disassemble old barn with such chopper, nails and everything and he didnt do any teeth.

A friend asked me if I could take one old "stage" sword and regrind it into a sharp one, for show purposes, like PET bottle cutting and to have one to show to audience as a sharp one. It was quite bad. Supposedly made by a "good" maker, it had no tip, the guard was loose (even though the sword was not too much used), the pommel is cracked where he was punching too cold and the "edge" had big teeth (because even though its 5160, the heat treat is bad and it is on the soft side). If I reground it for the correct profile, I would have no metal left, so I have ground short convexes on the present

The hardest part was to find refractory for lining. I have something called MSG-1 which is for working temperatures around 1400 C, but it has heat resistancy up to 1700 C and it can be improved by adding further compounds. I think if I mix around 10 kilos I can add some sandblasting AL2O3. Normally it has about 35% of it, but the instruction say, you can add whatever fillers up to some ammount.

Wayne I have found and read the instructions, I know your page, thanks. I m far away, and as you remember our customs are pain in the arse - I bought some IR paint stuff from you, while ago, that works well actually, but it was difficult to explain to our official knobheads what it is and why I want it. Our propane tanks are different size, but a friend of mine is gonna roll me thick walled tube. Ill go further like this, the burner is 12X3" (in your units) the metal shell is about 14" diameter and 20" long. The inner space is gonna be 7" in diameter. The fiber insulation is not draw

This forge is 10X10X50 cm that is like 490 cubic inches. It has insulation behind the brick. But I m still gonna build a new one.

Thanks for that insight Sean. So I need to put a valve to the air duct to be able to tune and needle valve for the gas to get the correct mixture. What you ask - Yeah its lots of dragon breath. You cannot see it here because I m blocking the port, but I think I m burning too much fuel for nothing. It will weld, but just about. Also I have used hard brick inside. Its indestructible, but I think it would be better to have the wool insulation, just with refractory. So when at it, I can easy build this type of burner in my shop and I have finaly found refractory that holds up to 1700 C for the

Like this. I remeasured my profile I can use for the burner, its 80 mm. 33 holes around 8,7 mm will give me equilibrium to 2" (50 mm) tube. Why I am doing this My current forge is just too angry with venturi burners.

The ones I made from 5160 scraps spark like crazy.

Hello, little question. Assuming I have this burner 300 mmX90 mm and input is 2" (I have 380V blower with 2" pipes) this is 28 holes. 28 10 mm holes has more area than 2" pipe on input of the burner by about 3 holes. 9 mm holes is about 2 holes short. Should I strive for perfect equilibrium in this?