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Jaro Petrina

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Jaro Petrina last won the day on March 28

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About Jaro Petrina

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  1. Well, I copied some things from Alan´s hammer and it was lots of work to make it do what it should. It runs very nice now, but its one of the machines that cannot be done halfway and expected to work. If I was really low on technology, I would just make single straight spring hammer - just the ammount of things that turn and need to be greased, all the pivots and everything are just not there in comparition with something like little giant. Even the ram guides do not be very precise and it will work. Like the scrap machine on this picture, thats far less work than properly done tyre hammer wit
  2. I would tighten the spring and shorten the ram accordingly. If your sabot (the anvil) is now hollow tube, you can pour it full of concrete, weld flat metal right over and make your lower die fixed on that. The ram is probably too light. If its a hollow jackel, you can either change it for full square rod or again, you could pour concrete inside and weld over. Once you tighten the spring and shorten the ram, you need to make it turn about 3X as fast as now, that means either making the secondary pulley smaller (probably easier) or the primary bigger (more costly option) accordingly. I would wan
  3. Love it, very lansknecht feel from that. First siege of Viena.
  4. Yeah, I m gonna do it! It still needs bit more counterweight on the main wheel. Its visible from the stroke that the engine pulls the ram up and struggles a bit. That way I would cook it. 10 kg is gonna be enough I suppose.
  5. I have asymetrical con rod eye which can be flipped and that gives me about 1" extra if I need it and there is 1" insert under the lower die. Its almost too long a stroke.
  6. Made new dies for my hammer, also the spring die tool. And bronze slide bearings for the ram (the plastic wouldnt take it), together with set screws.
  7. Working on my version of Jeremiah Johnson bowie. I copied overall shape and tapers, its 3/8" thick at the handle and forged thinner each way, but not the grind. The flat grind is gonna be more practical - and I would need 30" contact wheel to get the grind like on the original sheffield knife. I will put fileworked guard and moose antler scales on it.
  8. Brother, I am last to criticise, because it took me bloody time to learn the basic, but thats shocking welds. Was that with a stick and what is your setup? Wont you have anybody round to show you? I actually went to youtube at one point and found the tutorials (which is plenty there) rather helpfull.
  9. The ham knife is for a chap who always cooks on our reenactment thing. He should get something for all that work.
  10. The smalest wrought body knife is not my blade. The rest is ready for glueup and final fit. The Ham slicing knife next to viking longknife is about the same size, but very thin and flexible. I plan to use the cuttlers resin I cooked for everything. I m gonna etch that blade with the fuller - its 52100, but its pretty sterille as it is. The big seax has two plunge lines-something I didnt count to happen. I think it will make good camp or bush knife.
  11. Aiden, I assume you have 110V DC, right? With a 20A fuse it would mean your furnace ust be rated at 2,2 kW? That seems kind a feeble to me. Let us know its power rating and from that the breaker can be easy calculated. Long cord itself isnt bad, if anything it acts as a long induction dampener. Does your furnace has any tag or sticker?
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