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Jaro Petrina

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Everything posted by Jaro Petrina

  1. I will wait for a bit, its just lying in the workshop,now, its temperate but rather wet place. Many thanks!
  2. So I cast the whole thing again, like 14 days ago, but when I unformed today, it was all perfectly wet underneath the plastic plates I used for the form. Also it kind of stuck on sides, so WD40 as a separator sucks. I didnt used straws or anything, I will drill the block once dry. This is taking too much time now.
  3. Getting there. I have radically reworked the concept of the ram. Also changed the secondary drive wheel for a conventional tire, because it gives far better traction.
  4. If the blade is roughly rectangular for most of its lenght then you can calculate how much of a beveled (trianglar) profile can you get from initial square of your original profile can you get. The tip woul be about half of that what would be full. Once the blade has curves, all goes from the window and honestly you do better judging how much metal you need by weighing your initial stockpiece and taking in account that some will be spent in forging, scaling, grinding etc.
  5. Its hardened alright, survived many things. But now this was a cheap opportunity for that guy to have a sharp sword for cutting demo and stuff.
  6. Another of my friends contacted me if I could just grind one of his very old reenactment/stage swords sharp, to be able to cut PET flasks or say a chicken. Bear in mind that this was 20 years old almost 4 pound thing with a thickness of 3,5 mm where the edge would be. I have reground it into a sort of a lens profile and also ground down the oversized pommel. Not the lightest thing still, but handles like a sword should and with good steel on the edge and the full convex from the fuller it should be capable into chopping into a pig carcass or similar things. This time I took a "before" pic
  7. So I have reset the crankshaft for a 100 mm stroke, also its now somehow higher as there are welded block under the bearings (which are SnCu bronze). I need to turn a different main gear for the motor, the one I have is too small I think. Then the ram is going to be upgraded with settable ram guides. I think in about week or two I have the final version running.
  8. Many thanks, I shall look into it. "very little horn in France during the same period." The implication would be whatever the saxons were more oriented to cattle breeding, than their continental counterparts.
  9. It looks like its gonna take a while. I couldnt get the crayons everybody uses, hence the straws. I also pushed the manifold quite deep into the brick, but there is still some space inside, altough not much. Thats my only worry. Also there is a "mixer" inside and I m gonna put a piece of mesh somewhere into the 2" tube also.
  10. Andrew, smashing work. Do you have sources on the horn handles?
  11. So I have de-formed the block. Its not very dry, my workshop is about 15 C and two days in the form didnt do much as the water has no escape. Hovever. It didnt stick on he planks, the block stands solid, now I need for it to dry, then take it home, set it next to heating and then next to owen. I would say....till the end of the week or something.
  12. Cast the burner on the manifold, cut and cleaned the inside of the old expansion tank. It has now legs, so it stands. My old forge, which I sold to friend. I have enough isolation for something like 3" of fiber and then about 1" of hard cast. I will weld reinforcement around the hole for burner and also round ones at each end, so I can draw the cast over and have no contact of metal with fire.
  13. That would make sense, but it seems to be complicated to me, because the electric owen with a hard brick would give him just about that.
  14. I dont think you are going to melt AL2O3 at home, its about 2100 Celsius melting point. Anything that melts that is more dangerous than any salt bath.
  15. 7-8" overall isnt much, because a good grip has about 5" (human hand is usually between 4-6" wide. So 8" overall is really really small bushcraft knife. For a general use knife that isnt too big I would want 8" blade. Stabby stabby combat special 7" blade. Heavy camp knife 10-12" with no probs.
  16. The big industrial dies have indexing bolts of that.
  17. Plenty of people here to make something like that. The temperature itself isnt a problem unless you are somewhere around of Yakutsk, where steel becomes brittle in -50 celsius. 5160 or 52100 steels you can cover with terracote for rust protection, or go for more modern steel. We dont really know what do you want to use it for, seems like something a soldier would carry. Thicker leuku or mid sized bowie with a thicker tip would do anything you want, I think Gerald nailed it perfectly. I would stay from fancy lines, super hollow grinds, thin tips and such, just go for something plain and dura
  18. There is such thing as bad customers, you know? The part I learned hardest during the time when I turned my hobby into a buissness was to spot these and avoid at all costs.
  19. There surelly will be doors. Wayne, that is what I thought, that it will swirl anyway to the left and right. I honestly kind of want a hotspot under the burner as that is the place where I put the packet to be welded.
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