Matt Walker

I don't have a fishing story but a boat story: When I decided I wanted to fish our river some people told me about people building river boats by using a jet-ski drive in a jon boat. Did a little research and too quickly bought a jet-ski and a 14-48 jon boat and went to work. It turned out pretty good and I decided to take it to the lake for a try out before it was really completed. Just a temporary board to sit on. A small crowd gathered on the ramp to see what was going to happen. In the crowd was my wife taking video and a man with a boy around 4 years old. Having never been

If you swing by that ramp mid day you'll see, Word is already out! They were parked in the grass yesterday. Tags indicate mostly NC but I see vehicles from everywhere. Very few TN usually.

Anyone fishing tailwater below a dam? I live 0.5 miles from a new ramp on the South Holston River in East TN. Have an outboard jet and trying to learn how to fish this river. Last fishing I did was for bass 30 years ago. A 2400 cfm river is a whole different ballgame. People are visiting here from all over the country, it's supposed to be one of the top trout fisheries in the East. Most are fly fishing using drift boats. I've been having good luck just throwing minnow shaped plugs. Random video showing what a nice place this is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FA6OCye6ogQ Ano

Many years back, a number of people helped me with pattern welding. None had Ron's depth of knowledge and generosity to share. If he knew a fellow was serious he had no secretes!

https://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-Portaband-Tables-Accessories_c_35.html

Copper jaw covers have worked well for me. Copper is more grippy than steel on steel.

Thanks Jerrod, All good points. I really can't find much difference with a hammer. A hard ball (1.25") drop beside a crudely calibrated 10 " stick is showing some spots a little harder maybe. Here is what I'm seeing: As cut and cleaned face 30% rebound with minor denting. If I work over an area the size of a quarter with a hammer for a minute or two I get +40%. On the treated piece I'm getting 50% to 60% and no deformation on the treated piece. So yeah, I think it's probably is worth doing for a guy with a torch already or a person with a few extra bucks. On the other hand

I suspect you may be correct Jerrod. The problem is I don't have a hardness test system other than a center punch and I kinda hate to ding up this piece because it was done for a friend. After seeing the simplicity of the set up, I'll have to do some experimenting. I can work with a test piece and regrind as necessary until I figure out if if is worth the effort. Any suggestions for a low tech/cheap hardness test method? I have a friend who owns a ball drop scleroscope but I don't think he would sell it and I searched for one a while back and failed to find a simple one. They had a

Just picked up! No testing yet, still in my truck. I did see the tool. A by hand operation, not even a rosebud, good sized welding tip followed by a water flood. Well I banged on it a little. It is noticeably harder! Is it $75 harder is yet to be determined.

Thanks Jerrod, It's becoming clear why in over 30 years I've never heard of a blacksmith doing this or seen any articles in any blacksmith publications. It's just too expensive for a small operation. And way too technical for a backyard operator. But it is an interesting thing to learn about. I'll do my best to see the set-up when I go back!

OK, I think I may be getting the picture. Are you guys saying the whole face needs to be done in one pass? (bunch of rosebuds ganged) From the brief description I got from the guy (including hand motions) while he was on the running tow-motor. I kinda pictured covering the face in overlapping parallel lines, with one torch closely followed by a water flood. I even pictured this being hand operated, sounds like my imagination is way off. I may have to take doughnuts and/or beer when I go pick that piece up to get to see the operation! Another thing I saw there that was interesting

Thanks Jerrod, We value your experience. And yes that is a huge machine. I saw a couple of videos of the induction system on smaller parts, and yeah it looks expensive. The pro shop is doing one face for $75. I understood 1/8" deep. I guessed if I tried it with my biggest rosebud (3/4") it would burn most of that in gas. But I was thinking heat and quench. I had no idea how the pro planed to do it when I got the quote on the phone. I hope on pick up I can get more info and maybe get to see their set up. Then I may experiment. The torch and water at the same time in a connec

I just dropped off a #250 block of my 4340 at a pro heat treat shop to have one face hardened for a buyer. The guy said "we will be "flame hardening on Friday". Oh, I said how does that work? He explained they have a torch that is rigged with a water hose. He seemed in a hurry so I didn't try to get more info. Wondering if it might be robotic. I hadn't thought about this being a professional process. In fact after several years of being around I know of only one fellow who ever played with this. Some years back Alan did a long blade with something like this. At the time I just th

Agreed, on both counts. If the replacement rod were to be a piece of pattern welded stock, wouldn't that be cool!

"Because I'm a masochist for this sort of thing" funny but not surprising! Way back when Jim P and I were bumming at a local crane yard, we were told all they use was counter-rotating to prevent the load from spinning. We monkeyed around with it some but I can't find a photo. What we got didn't have the fiber core best I remember. I think they offered both and we only took the type without the fiber core. I don't remember any issues twisting to tighten with the outer layer. Seems like the outer kinda contains/crushes the inner that is going the wrong way. I do remember liking the p