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Everything posted by Svet

  1. Beautiful! Its look is very cose to the appearance of a traditional Japanese blade too. I am loving this Tanto, thank you for showing it and keep on posting good stuff.
  2. When we are talking Japanese swords, there are millions of possibilities, of course! But there's still a simple answer, man: Shinogi-Zukuri, Osoraku-Zukuri and Kiriha_zukuri blades do have a Yokote bevel. The rest do not. That's it.
  3. Hmmm... Okay, let's just say that it is better when we have a real geometry change, i.e. a real Yokote bevel. For Christ's sake, many of the stainless steel wallhangers have a real Yokote bevel! As for Osoraku and O-Kissaki - yes, their Yokote bevel is not that steep because of the small angle. There was a video about a Japanese polisher. It was posted on this forum too. It clearly showed the polishing of the Kissaki and the applying of a crisp Yokote to a genuine Shinogi-Zukuri blade. The guy handled the sword at a rather big angle when he was doing the geometry change over the stone
  4. This makes two of us. I hate working for other people and that's why I work as a freelanced designer and I trade antiques. Used to work as a PR expert for a municipality - a very prestigious job, pretty damn well paid too. But I quit because I don't like working with people. Hell no, I won't work for/with other people anymore. At one previous job of mine I beat the hell out of my boss. I am an itrovert werewolf and a sociopathic maniac who likes to stay in his hole, go to bars at night, score on chicks and that's it. Being a freelancer and working for yourself is cool but he
  5. Now that's a real Hamon! Congratulations on an excellent blade. It was the temperature after all. Are you going to polish it in the Sashikomi tradition or is it going to be polished by the Hadori method? I vote for Sashikomi. Also, do you intend to apply a different pattern Hamon on the other blade or is it going to be this blade's twin brother?
  6. As you can see from THIS photo, taken from the same site as your pic, the Yokote is present on the Oshigata. It is a real bevel. Osoraku has a real Yokote bevel. A very, VERY slight one, since the angle is quite small, but it is still there. It's like O-Kissaki on a Katana but a bit larger and looks even more large on a short Tanto blade. There is a real change in the geometry of the blade. Even though the Yokote is refined in the polishing process, Osoraku is a blade shape style, not a polishing style.
  7. I never thought that bladesmithing could be a good way to earn your money. Maybe I am wrong but I have that bad feeling that I'm right. Selling and re-selling blades, made by other people, is a much more profitable business. Less blood, sweat and tears too. Having a serious and well paid job and leaving bladesmithing for your spare time as an extra way to earn money is a thing that many people accept as their way of life. I believe that the majority of people on this great forum are half-time or hobbyst makers. There are only a few full-time bladesmiths which makes us conclude that knifem
  8. Thanks guys. Seems that most of us do not use pre-made plans. I saw the blade design site of Mr. Antonio Cejunior and I wanted to give preliminary blade design a try. Will se what happens. Maybe I will have to design some Koshirae too. This would help me realize what I really want my blade to look like in advance. @CProkopp: The plywood template is a good idea - a little bit harder to make than cutting it out from cardboard but durability is a good advantage and worth the effort. Maybe I will make mine out of MDF. Would making a real 3-dimensional model out of wood, MDF, whatever
  9. Thanks Andrew, I'm glad that people like it. The blade's Nagasa is going to be 40 centimeters. The overall length will be 50 centimeters firm which leaves 10 centimeters for the Nakago. I have an already forged 1060 blade from and old unfinished project of a Hira-Zukuri Sunnobi Tanto (or a Ko-Wakizashi if you prefer) that I intend to re-forge to its new Shobu-Zukuri shape. It is about 50 centimeters overall, so I had to use this length in my design.
  10. Guys, this is my first attempt at visual planning of a blade. Normally, I have the image of the blade in my head and I don't use any plans. Now, for the first time, I am about to use a pre-made image for the making of a blade. Basically, I will try to make a copy of my drawing - shape, style, Hamon pattern, everything. I have the plan in 1:1 ratio and I can make a cardboard template out of it too. The blade will be Japanese Shobu-Zukuri ko-Wakizashi with 2mm of Sori and a Gunome-midare Hamon. Here is the design (I used PhotoShop): Tips and tricks about using an actual visual plan a
  11. Just the best thing to give as a present to a friend. Great idea, this is noble.
  12. Yes, Yokote is a real bevel. And a quite sharp and steep one too. It marks the change in geometry of the blade towards its tip. Most mass production Katanas, Tantos and Wakizashis do NOT have a real Yokote. There you have the effect of different angle polishing. It is ugly, untrue, it's just wrong. Forge your blade to apply a real Yokote. By the way, the style you're describing (shobu zukuri with an O-Kissaki and an Yokote) is called Osoraku. This is the only Tanto style that has an Yokote. The existence of Shinogi-Zukuri tantos (another style with Yokote) is contestable - the
  13. My father soaks the skinned and cleaned rabits in water, vinegar, pimento (allspice?) and sliced onions. Keeps them soaked for 24 hours or so. This helps make the meat soft and tender, also makes it more delicious, I guess. Then he cooks them in a pressure cooker (pressure pot?), sorry I don't know its name in English. It looks like this: And then the mystery begins... meaning that I will have to ask him about the ingredients of his "Hunter's Meal" because I don't know what in the world he adds in the stew. All I can do at this stage is attest that it is very, very delicious. Will po
  14. Well, good luck, Sam! I don't know what you're about to heat treat but you will need luck in all cases. Even more in the case of differential hardening.
  15. Hehe, I called you "Mr. Walters" because I didn't know what the "J" in your user name stood for. Now I know it was Joe. And you sure do deserve respect. I missed the sub title of this topic the first time. Now I know that the saya was finished in patinated and reliefed silver. Awesome! This is a fantastic way to finish a saya. Really great effect. Lots of work and craftsmanship involved too. You knew that in Ancient Japan silver was more precious than gold, didn't you?
  16. This is one excellent piece, Mr. Walters! A really nice package. Minding that this is a fully mounted Aikuchi with traditional ray skin tsuka wrap, water buffalo horn fuchi and kashira, I think that it is offered at a very low price too - the custom Habaki alone costs half the asked price. What wood are the Saya and the Tsuka made of? Also, what is the Saya wrap material? Or is it a special finish? First grade work, thanks for posting it. Whoever buys it, they'd be lucky to own it.
  17. If you are refering to THIS thread, then I couldn't get anything from that video. Yes, it was great and it showed that the guy is in deep switchblade business but nothing on the spring mechanism. At least not a detailed glimpse on all the springs and buttons and stuff... IUf there is another switchblade making video on TKN, then I'd be very thankful to have the link. Thanks!
  18. Svet


    No photo visible, Chuck.
  19. Heat the blade to 300 degrees Celsius and pour the Borax over it using a salt pot. Give it a chance to melt and spread well. Then stick the blade in the oven, get the blade to the austenizing point and quench. If you're using a charcoal forge, chances are that the Borax may get rubbed off at some places. When it comes to differential hardening, some people mix Borax with clay and apply a very thin film on the whole blade. Then they apply the thicker insulative coating of clay, powdered charcoal, sand and Borax again.
  20. I am afraid that if I buy a switchblade, I'd lose my interest in making one since I need it for myself. Guess, I'll have to find someone who has a stiletto and make him disassemble it for me. Any ideas how to convert my standard folder (the one on the pic below) into an automatic knife? This cheapo folder is my favourite all purpose tool and one of the few stainless blades I've managed to sharpen beyond razor sharp. Once I shaved using it but hey, hushhhhhhhh!
  21. I intend to make my first switchblade knife. One of the type shown on the pic below. I am looking for plans of the spring mechanism. Tips, tricks and etc. are welcome too! Thanks guys!
  22. It all ldepends on the steel you are using - there are oil hardening steels and there are water hardening steels. If you're using an oil hardening steel you gotta quench it in oil, and if it is a water hardening one, you have to quench it in... hehe, water! That's it. Plain carbon steels (like the steel used in Japanese blades) are water hardening. That's why the Japanese quench them in water. You sure can quench them in oil but in most cases they won't get their optimal hardness. At the same time oil quench would be much moire forgiving and you can avoid the severe stress that appea
  23. AWESOME!!! This is one great blade with great fittings. Using a Russian tank barrel is a great idea too. This is quality steel. Do you have any info on the making of this knife and especially on the heat-treating of it? Any progress photos? Thanks for showing us this excellent knife! PS: I have a large piece of German WWII howitzer shiled steel. Guess it would be quite a good material for knives since this steel's appointment was to protect the howitzer crew from enemy fire, i.e. to reflect bullets and grenade shrapnels without taking any damage. The damn thing is hard as glass but un
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