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Everything posted by Svet

  1. Svet


    What a question! There are hundreds of answers. The shortest of them: it depends on the gun, country of origin, manufacturer, era... Also, are you asking about the barrel steel only or are you referring to every single gun part?
  2. Our forumite John Smith posted this topic: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?sh...ic=6534&hl= It i about a free online magazine that's dealing with knives and the Art of Knifemaking. You may want to contact the guys from that mag and ask them to publish some of your photos in their next issues. Abut choosing the "right" knife shows: I, personally, can't answer. I don't live in the USA. Let the USA knifemakers share their experience. One thing I've learned from my militaria trading experience is that the most crowded collectors' gatherings normally don't bring you much profit
  3. There is a saying in my country: "At first work for reputation only and after awhile reputation will work for you". I am not a full time knifemaker or knife trader but I am dealing with authentic swords and militaria, so I learned some important things about marketing from my experience. I believe that if you want to sell you knives at higher prices, you need to concentrate on the quality of your work and build a "fanbase" of collectors. Yeah, like with rock'n'roll stars. Focus on those really interested in collecting knives. The ordinary users don't give a rat's ass about Damascus s
  4. Excellent piece of art, it will serve the Pagan sacrificial gods good. Any hearts ripped out using it? Very cool design on this dagger, man.
  5. In that case you need more temperature in the quench. This steel is very shallow hardening and its hardened part will not spread too much beyond the clay. In your case the martensite was unable to form near the clay because your temperature was too low and the blade got heated enough only on its thinner edge.
  6. Did your insulating clay fall off the blade during the quench? Some people claim that you only need it for a few seconds but a ruined clay coating sure as hell can cause spots and strange looking structures on the blade even if it has fallen at temps lower than "Critical". Not to mention the wrapage. Did your blade wrap allowing quenchant to move underneath the clay coating?
  7. This is what I am trying to do - I will use this long forge for heat treating of swords only. It WILL be a forge for specialized work. I will try MR Fogg's forced air burner setup. Gotta find some pipes from a home heating system first. Thanks for all the support, guys, I learned a lot form this thread. All that is left is put it into practice and see what happens.
  8. Cooooooool! Thanks for sharing this link. Lots of eye candies there.
  9. Hehe, thanks. My thag muscle says that I must build a long forge for swords. "Forget about the stupid in and out heating, forget about short forges" it says. Darn, I can't help it but obey...
  10. The roar of this plumbing burner is imbearable even at low gas pressure. I am sorry that it could not be heard on the video. I managed to get a very sharp conical flame with literally pointy tip that was all blue by simply moving the air holes behind the gas nozzle. Unfortunately all this conical blue flame did was a hot spot on the opposite side of the forge. Maybe. i will try a bigger diameter chamber when i have the chance. Btw what do you think about this forge? The guy built it for heat treating of swords (this is what I need mine for too) It seems that his forge's diameter is
  11. Yap, I will try a forced air setup. Mr Fogg's setup looks like the best of them all. It has the nozzle before the knee. I will try to make one. I don't have a cap for attaching the nozzle, though. Guess I will have to make one out of something. I forgot to ask: What is the average gas pressure required for running a forced air burner? Also, what happens when the air is much more than is needed? Does the gas simply combust inside of the burner? Is it better and/or safer to have a little bit more air than is needed in the mix? Thanks!
  12. Thanks guys. I don't think that it is possible to avoid the hot spot on the opposite side of the burner. I am not a gas forge expert (apparently) but about 100% of all forges I've seen online were sporting a hot spot. I don't want to make a huge barrel forge too since I don't have room to install it and since I don't have connections with the Russian gas mafia. Hell no, I will not pay for tons of Propane just to be able to heat-treat a bloody piece of iron. Also, I am almost sure that I got poisoned by CO today since I am having a headache (I've never had one in my entire life). If I
  13. I did several tests today and I was unable to get my forge hot enough. Have a look at this video - this is my first attempt with the air openings placed ahead of the gas nozzle. Most forge burners have this air opening placement: VIDEO Apparently, not much of a success. Then I put the air holes BEHIND the nozzle and the flame became all blue and conical. This setup got the spot against the flame yellow hot. Not the whole forge, though. Then I used a reducer and a longer air pipe and the flame became saturated bright orange, mixed with blue. :confused: Looked hotter tnan t
  14. Thanks a lot, birdog4. I will wait for your post with the dimensions - post them whenever you have the time, I am not in a hurry. Got to finish with my birthday party first and only after I do that I'll be back to forge building. I think the photos of your Ventury burner gave me the answer to my quest - seems that I will have to elongate my burner's air pipe, drill more air holes and eventually use a reducer to help mix the gas with the ambient air. I hear that flares are very important when we're talking Venturi forges. What is your flare made of and what is its taper step? I rea
  15. birdog4, what are the dimensions of the pipes used? How long is the blower pipe, how wide is the mixing chamber pipe, etc. And also: do you have a flare at the end of the burner?
  16. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?act=idx At the very bottom of the page.
  17. This is so evil man, *SO* evil... Excellent piece - it reminds mo of that laser pistol from Douglas Adams'es Galaxy hitch hiking saga.
  18. Congrats! What a roomy and and tidy shop. Nice blades too, I especially like the spear tip.
  19. The purpose of folding and forging of steel was to make it more homogenous. Folding does not make a sowrd more tough or more elastic. Heat-treating alone can do this. Folding evens out the carbon content of the smelt and helps burn out a big portion of the impurities. The Ancients were trying to purify their impure steel by primitive and time & labor consuming methods. Creating a nice looking pattern (an effect that many modern smiths are after) was not their goal, even though many ancient smiths and bladesmithing schools used to apply controlled patterns to their blades as a trademark.
  20. Hehe, so Geoff's setup with the knee on the air supply pipe is better? Allright. I think I will try Mr Fogg's burner design - the knee is after the mixing chamber. Should I aim at a swirling flame movement of the flame inside of the forge when I am using a forced air forge or is it only important when we're talking Venturi? PS: Money is not an issue. It's patience what I lack. Plus, I am a lazy person in general, so I am trying to avoid any extra building work as much as I can.
  21. Thanks Kristopher. I used a program to edit Geoff's photograph of his burner assembly. What do you think of my burner design? It will not use a knee on the air supply pipe - there's going to be a direct airflow and its gas nozlle will spray downwards to prevent the gas from puddling. Is this design a bad idea?
  22. Excellent blade! And the handle job is first grade.
  23. Thank you for taking your time showing us your setup, Geoff. So, I should go with a forced air forge? Guess that I'll have to dip the galvanized plumbing pipes in acid to remove the Zink. I know that the pipes won't get that heated but still... Does one need to gas-tight the plumbing pipes? If yes, what should I use for the purpose? I will keep trying with my Venturi design and if the situation becomes hopeless, I will switch to your design, Geoff.
  24. I will go after this design: http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/oliverburner1.html I chose it because I already have it - my "plumbing and soldering" gas burners have absolutely the same design as this guys self-invented forghe burner. And I mean absolutely the same. Problem is that his stuff works and mine does not. He says something about not being able to run his setup properly with a nozzle gauge other than #57. Hmmm, maybe this is causing my troubles. Maybe my nozzle is bigger or smaller than #57... Or maybe my burners are shorter than his 7'' long tube? Hmmm... Oooooooops! I ju
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