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Everything posted by Svet

  1. In the Winter, I use my wood/coal heater that's supplying my house's heating system as a forge. It is in my basement. In other words, I simply move to the basement where many of my tools are kept anyway. I am trying to build a Propane forge that I intend to use in my garage when the temperatures get really low (say minus 20 to minus 30 Celsius). Hopefully, I will succeed in making it work soon and I will move there. If I had to work on a piece at this very moment, I'd be still working at my open air forge because the snow suddenly melted and now the temperatures here are about 2-3 de
  2. Kristopher, I don't want to make a simple thing more complicated. Don't want to deal with fans and forced air setups that can cause a lot of scaling and oxidation. I need a Venturi burner because it is simple to build, effective, noise less and it gets the job done. That guy on SFI was trying to help. Guess that he just didn't realize that soldering burners are no much different from forge burners. At least the ones i saw looked very close to my soldering burners. Another guy suggested this design: http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/oliverburner1.html It is like looking at my present set
  3. Thanks Josh, great links. Frankly, I didn't get the idea behind these forge burners. Maybe it is my English or maybe I'm just dumb but they are no much different from the plumbing ones that I bought and used (without any success) with my forge. There is a hose, there is a nozzle and there is a tube for the burner's end. Just like with my burners. What's the difference? What makes these special forge burners produce a more "concentrated" flame? Hmmm... maybe they just have a smaller opening on the nozzle or something?
  4. Since my Ytong forge turned out to be unable to heat a damn cup of tea, I had to confess that something was terribly wrong with it. A person said in my thread on SFI that it was my burners' fault - he claims that since my burners are soldering and plumbing ones, their flame is too loose and not concentrated enough and burns at a much lower temperature than the average forge burner. Hmmm, I am not a gas forge expert (apparently ) and I don't know if this is the actual problem causing my troubles but I decided to give the burners update a chance by making myself better burners. I am looki
  5. Great job Jesus, thank you for this pictorial. Too bad that the blades did not show a full Hamon. Maybe the temperature was not high enough and only the thin edge got heated to Critical? Or maybe your quenchant was too slow and/or too warm? Just a couple of wild guesses. It would be great if you anneal these blades several times and then re-heat treat them, this time using your favourite coating formula, the one that you used on your cool cable blades, and leave the blades reach a bit above the temperature you used in the first quench. IMHO, the steel deserves some experimentation.
  6. So, I just need a larger diameter tunnel? What if I just use a smaller flame with this diameter?
  7. Etch the blade or use traditional Japanese mud stones to bring out the Hamon. For the etch job polish the blade and then use FeCl or hot apple vinegar to etch it by dipping it into the solution or by rubbing the solution onto the blade's surface. The hamon will appear as a portion covered in black oxide while the remaining soft part will become light grey because it won't get attacked by the etchant that hard as the hardened edge. Clean the blade off the grey and black oxides using dish detergent and steelwool and repeat the etch cycle several times untill you're satisfied with the resul
  8. I just disassembled the forge and then assembled it back but this time putting the opening on the thinner wall of the forge. I also coned the wall behind the opening giving the flame more space to spread and less chance to get compressed and blow back. The only problem I see in this design is that the flame will hit the opposite wall of the forge directly and maybe it won't swirl too well. But I have seen on the net square brick gas forges that worked well, so let's hope that the direct hit would not be such a big problem. Will see how the new setup performs tomorrow. I will al
  9. What if I put am air blower behind the burner? Guess that this would enrich the flame with oxygen and it will also increase the pressure and make the flame go further inside the forge. Hmmm... I think I will disassemble the forge and drill the holes on the thinner wall. Are there any other improvements that I should make while the forge is disassembled and while I have free access to its interior walls? Thanks!
  10. Thanks a lot, Greg. I didn't get the cone burner part too well. Sorry, my English is poor. Did you mean I should do something like this? If this is the idea, then I think it will make the burner get even hotter because it will blow back even more flame.
  11. A picture is worth a thousand words. This is the situation at the moment: Maybe if I put the burner on the thinner wall of the Ytong brick things would change? Should I stick the burner tightly into the forge's opening so to prevent the fire from blowing out around its tip? Comments and advices are welcome. Thanks, guys!
  12. Thanks, I will try to build a new forge, this time with a bigger diameter tunnel. I don't need even heat any more - seems that it's impossible to achieve. Just any heat. It is strange that my Ytong forge can't reach Critical... Maybe I should close the two openings at the end leaving just a smal one for the pressure to escape from. About Satanite falling off - my natural clay and charcoal formula does not fall off. maybe I should add sand to the Satanite? About annealing - the blade was annealed in a charcoal fire. Seems that it is going back to the charcoal for hardening too.
  13. What a failure! I did a double test (or two tests) - I tested my new gas forge and I tested the ability of refractory cement to serve as a coating in differential heating. I decided to go the modern way - no more charcoal, no more messy Japanese clay formulas. Both tests were unsuccessful. I grabbed a 1050 Wakizashi blade I had lieing around and coated it in refractory cement (Satanite). Good material, no wonder why many bladesmiths use it - applies easily and you have great control over the pattern. Wish that it worked in the quench too. I made the clay pattern like this: On
  14. First grade work, Greg! Love that blade. It has an antique look. Everything is just perfect - blade, handle and the one-piece fittings.
  15. It is too late for me to ask more questions about the positioning of the burners now. I just made the first hole. It is at about 1/3 from the end of the forge. I used a plumbing PVC pipe with its rim serrated with the edge of a file. And the semi-finished hole. I used sunflower seed oil to lubricate the pipe and the opening. Thais helps for better rotating and thus - better cutting. The finished hole. It turned out very smooth, closely following the shape of the pipe. And the forge sporting the new hole: Soon I will test the forge with onl
  16. Dee, I will use the forge for heat treating only. heat treating of very long blades (like katanas and wakizashis). That's why I need even heat and no hot or cold spots.
  17. The tunnel of the forge is about 15 cm in diameter (about 6 inches). That is right - in most cases Japanese blades are straight before the quench. The curvature is a result of the differential hardening. The slanted burners setup sounds quite reasonable. Guess that I will have to put a lid on the rear opening of the forge and positionthe first burner close to that end. The second burner would be in the middle. Both would be slanted with their openings againste the front end of the forge. Hmmm... sounds like a good idea, thanks. let's see what the experts think about it.
  18. Sorry, I didn't see this question. Well, I guess the only way to test the forge is drill holes in it... This is what i am trying to avoid. not that I can't tap the holes if it turns out that they are misplaced but still I prefer to ask the experts for the Magic Burner Position Formula.
  19. Thanks for the replies, guys. @JacobE, the refractory cement I used is used for sticking decorative refractory wall tiles onto the walls of fireplaces. It is meant to withstand expansion and contraction. Hope that it will hold. Actually, I don't rely that much on the refractory cement for holding the forge pieces together. I intend to wire the froge, so the wire would keep it from falling apart while the refractory cement is there just to fill the gaps. I will use this forge for heat treating of long Japanese-style blades. This means that I need very EVEN heat inside the forge. N
  20. I want to drill the holes for the burners but I don't know what their correct positioning would be. I am thinking of doing this: Is this the best positioning, guys? What other and better alternatives do I have? I need to know this before I drill the wholes for the two burners. Or should I use only one burner? Thanks!
  21. No problems, it is good that you fixed things with your site's update.
  22. Hi, I see that you haven't given any credits to the autors of these videos. You want to charge people to put these viuds on DVD for them. I assume that you are going to do this without asking the autors of the videos. I don't want to be a party crusher but video piracy is against the law. There are people on this forum who are producing educational videos. They would not be too happy if you make copies of their vids and sell them in bulk to folks.
  23. 1050 is great for showing active hamons. A week ago I send a Swedish kid a bar of 1050 for free. It cost me $30 - steel bar plus shipping to Sweden. Hope he is happy.
  24. Thanks guys. I wil use these two burners with THIS forge. The chamber is 60 cm long, 15 cm in diameter. I want to know what the best positioning of the two burners would be: Both in the middle? One at the end and th other in the middle? Both at the ends? Each at 1/4 length from the two ends? Thanks!
  25. I used refractory clay (or cement?) to plaster up the inner walls of the chamber and to stick the two Ytong parts together. I believe that the thing is similar to the American Satanite refractory cement. Additional Ytong pieces were glued on the seam to support the construction and to insulate the thinner walls at the seam. It IS ugly, I know. I will have to drill the holes for the two burners and test the thing. To be continued...
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