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Svet

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Everything posted by Svet

  1. Thanks, Alan. I guess "Ytong" is a brand name. It is quite popular in Europe. Officially, it is not qualified as a "refractory" material, i.e. it is not meant to withstand high temperatures but I've seen people using it for making ovens for heat-treating, so it must work as a forge building material too. I believe that it is what most people call "gas concrete".
  2. I was carrying some repairs in my kitchen and I used the messy situation to build a forge. A one-brick Ytong forge. I am making this pictorial to share it with you guys and at the same time it will act as an insuarance against my laziness. If I share it with the public, I will not be allowed to stop building the forge and posting photos until it's finished. I am trying to cheat myself into finishing it. Advantages of building an Ytong forge: 1. Ytong is cheap - a huge brick like the one I am using costs about 10¢ 2. Ytong is extremely easy to work with - you can make holes or
  3. Van Uuyis, I just saw your site. You are automatically added in the list of my favourite Japanese-style bladesmiths. I saw the tantos and I saw the katanas. Fantastic blades!
  4. Japan is a consummerist country, that's true. Owning an expensive custom made sword, forged by a reputed smith in Japan is equal to driving an expensive car in the Western world. That's why many people are eager to own expensive things to show off, especially if those things have a direct connection with their historic past and/or romantic values. This affects the price of those things, i.e. swordsmiths are making big money out of people's Egos. And one more very important factor that keeps the ancient blades still in business: good old Hollywood. By the way, in ancient Japan swordsm
  5. Excellent work, man! Looking completely traditional. Very uniform Gunome too. Those fittings and the Tsukamaki are just first grade. Can you show us more close-up photos? (especially of the Hamon and of the Horimono) Is the blade monosteel?
  6. I'm with Adlai Stein. Just judge the time, effort and cost of materials put in your blade and determine its price. PS: Japan is a completely different market coming from a completely different world. I think it would be a mistake to compare it to the Western knife market. Japan is a land of honor and tradition where reputation alone sells those guys' blades, determines their prices and keeps their craft alive. We must not forget that there are more people practicing Japanese sword arts in Japan than in the rest of the world, many of those being wealthy businessmen and high ranking of
  7. Thanks, I'm too young to become the first unlicensed astronaut. Don't wanna fly too high fueled by exploding Propane. Will try to build Mr. Fogg's setup. By the way, what do you think about Ytong bricks? Officially, they are not considered "refractory". I've heard of people using them for HT of blades but will they hold for forge welding jobs? I will use a Ytong brick because it will save me building time. Plus I can't find Kaowool too easily. People here don't care about it, they just insulate their homes using "glass wool" (don't know its name in English)
  8. I know Patrick Bárta's website. This Czech guy simply kicks ass. His work is absolutely stunning.
  9. Maybe I can weld a pipe at the ends of the burners to elongate them? Does it bear any risks such as inner combustion at low gas pressure? I have also thought of welding radiator "wings" to the burner tubes to take away the heat. Will that work? PS I missed to ask in my previous posts: It lloks like my burners are galvanized. Why did those manufacturers galvanize a part that gets severly heated? I am very afraid of Zink and its hazardous effects since I've suffered them once. Should I use Hydrochloric acid to remove the galvanization?
  10. What kind of a hose should I use instead? The gas guys sell only rubber hoses here. I didn't attach the clamps at the joints because I was in a hurry to take the shots of the setup and post them here. I will use the clamps, of course but I have to optimize the whole thing before I put them on and call it finished.
  11. I want to make a two-burner gas forge and I bought two burner nozzles with hoses. I have a 30 liter gas tank that will be supplying the burners with Propane. The burning chamber will be a huge Ytong brick with a hole dug in it. My question: will the metal parts of the burners overheat, melt the hoses and blow my garage in the air, killing everybody in a 1 kilometer diameter?
  12. Niko, this kicks butt, man! Awesome stuff going on here. And those pine woods, the lake, the island... man this is *SO* cool! Are you going to use the Tamahagane for Japanese-styled blades? Guess you are.
  13. WOW, blades look killer, Jesus! Can't wait to see them polished. A preliminary trial etch is a good idea - it can give you an useful visual base for the future polishing of the blade and it can reveal any hidden micro cracks in the edge (hopefully, there will be none of those). My clay formula is similar to yours. I use pottery clay, though. The charcoal in the clay coating causes some kind of black residue. It looks like gun bluing and is quite durable too. I've even thought of using it for decorative blackening of steel parts. I too am very interested in learning wheaher this black
  14. Well, there are many Tolkien fans all around the world. Their number increased dramatically after Peter Jackson's screening of the book. I would stick it on eBay (also known as FeePay ). With the proper advertisement and description, it will sell pretty well. Put a reserve price on it, just for any case. Also try on Tolkien fan sites - literally millions of people are crazy about collecting Tolkien-related stuff. I've seen Frodo-style swords (The Sting) sell at ridiculously high prices. Good luck, this is a fine piece, very well executed and totally in the spirit of the world it is su
  15. Great idea splitting the two businesses! "Ferrum" is a nice and suitable name too. It has the idea of metals in it - "FERRUM" as the Latin for iron and it also sounds like "FORUM", i.e. a place where you can bring your part for machining and have a discussion with the owner. Neat and tidy looking website too. Did you build it yourself? PS: Mike, the names of the "ferric chloride" (FeCl3), "ferite" (Fe2O3 + Fe3O4) and other maetalsmithing-related terms and substances are derived from that very same Latin word - Ferrum. Also, the chemical symbol of iron is "Fe". I wonder why...
  16. Thanks Dave & B.Norris. I will try quenching in sunflower seed oil because I want the back of my diff hardened Wakizashi to cool a bit slower than it will in water. To prevent edge cracking that is. I am not very experienced in interrupted quenches and quenching in oil will be my first option to achieve the same level of "safety". I normally quench in lukewarm water.
  17. Wow! Was this staff sanctified by Gandalf? Nice work, guys.
  18. Hahahaha, nice boat! And where the heck does he store the Bass?
  19. Thanks guys. Dave, do you think that sunflower seed oil is suitable for quenching steels of the 10XX series? They are water hardening. In other words, do you think that sunflower seed oil is fast enough to harden a 10XX blade? Also, to what temp do you pre-heat the sunflower seed oil before quenching? Thanks!
  20. Thanks a lot Jeff, I will try your round file method. I suppose that you cut the tip of the file at an angle and sharpen the ridge? I just tried my Dremel-like tool on steel. Freehand. Funny thing is that one can easily take off steel, much easier than brass, for example. I noticed that it is quite easy to freehand grind a good and clean fuller into a piece of steel. Still, slow manual scraping sounds like a better idea. How long does it take to scrape a fuller like the one on your pic (an excellent piece, by the way) ?
  21. Damn, seems that applying a good fuller will be a hard task, especially on a curved blade. I will try to make a routing jig for my Dremel-like tool. If it doesn't work well on scrap pieces, I will just abandon the idea.
  22. Anyone tried it? Sunflower seed oil is the most popular cooking oil here. I can get it in vast amounts.
  23. Jesus, can you post photos of your Dremel set-up for grinding a Bohi? I bought a Dremel-like tool recently and I am looking for its proper applications. It doesn't have a router attachment but I think it won't be hard to make one. It has a soft shaft and I guess that this would make things easier. Here is the thing and the bits for it, guess that the ball stone will be just right for the Bohi job. I put one of the conic stone bits and I tested the tool on some brass (my keys ) and I noticed that it does not eat the metal too fast. Damn, at 30 000 RPM this is pretty strange. Wonder how f
  24. Thanks, this is the article. Turns out that it is by our host Mr. Don Fogg. I was wondering if a Dremel tool can do the job if used instead of a carbide cutter bit.
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