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About stryder

  • Birthday October 20

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Tunas, Missouri
  • Interests
    Playing with Hot Metal, Photography, Fishing, Kayaking, Leather work, etc

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  1. Gentlemen you have my thanks! I plan on trying to stretch the width a little by tapering my edge when reforging. I did use the cross peen, but not much result. so did I do fairly well as this is my first blade, I have done some art metal, never built a knife from scratch. Thanks again! G George
  2. Hello All; I have 3 coil springs given to me by a friend who works building Limo's, They are new, never used and should not be full of cracks, anyway they are 5/8th's inch and I started with a 6" section, and forged by hand. I feel like I got a good uniform thickness 1/4" thick, but I only got 1 1/4" width. Why did I not get a wider section of steel to shape into a knife? I plan on trying to bevel the blade by hand. Any support on why I did not get a thicker piece out of what I forged would be most appreciated, what did I do wrong?? G George
  3. Thank you knights that say NEE, your wit is refreshing and your comments not lost on myself. Thanks to all. G George
  4. Thank You Sir! Your insight is most valuable. G George
  5. I have the opportunity to buy this anvil, William Foster 1844 weight around 110 lbs, has a funny little shelf about half way up the side. I have no experience, and do not know if this is something worth using or should it not be used. I am mainly interested in Knife making, and am wanting to save for a smithing anvil, is this a waste of time and money?? The fellow says it has good rebound, and ring. Any help is appreciated. G George
  6. How do I get a fiery beard?? G George
  7. Thank You Gentlemen; Mr. Dougherty, that is exactly the ticket. Just to knock the shine down without having to disassemble. Not bad for $18.50 huh?! Thanks G George
  8. Thank's again! I dislike shiny things in the woods, guess I will have to deal with it. I read their website also as why I put that I thought it was SS, to shiny to be high carbon I thought. G george
  9. Thanks Guys, I bought a Tracker blade made by bear & buck knives, it has not been delivered yet, looks like SS but not sure. I saw a guy on you tube who blued SS ."so he said he knew the way to do it". I have a bottle of the Birchwood plum brown I used on a black powder barrel, wondered if there was a way to color the steel without taking the heat treat away or dismantleing the knife and going through the steps to make it right again. Thanks for your replies!! G George Pic's of said knife. G george
  10. Hello all; Is there a way to brown ( I like browning better than bluing) a knife that already has scales attached?? Blade is SS I think, have not got it yet. Any help is appreciated!! G George
  11. was reading in "how to make knives" by Barney,& Loveless that stamps can create stress risers, and a comment about "notch sensitive tool steel". so Question, can you stamp forged blades , and shouldn't stamp ground flatstock blades?? if i could be pointed in the right direction i would be very thankful. Thanks, George
  12. Jens; did you see the set in IOWA for sale on ABANA? resources- classifieds- shop equipment. 25 lbs little giant, and some other shop equipment. Stryder
  13. i wonder... if it was used to drive wedges when felling trees?? thats all i could think of. Stryder
  14. I think this belongs with the ad; search for 20 rivets. posted by dan. Stryder
  15. This is the whole yhing, i did get a champion 400 blower with it but was unsure if they were a set. thanks for the info!! Stryder
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