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J. Neilson

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Everything posted by J. Neilson

  1. I can tell you that this is not one of those idiotic reality TV shows. This is a straight up competition that gives the contestants tough but, reasonable challenges that will push the smith's skills. At the same time, this show will educate the audience and promote the talents & abilities of blade-smiths. There is nothing set up to promote failure, just the opposite. We want to promote the forged blade & the skills of the custom maker. This show will push it's makers & really test their mettle but, at the same time... these smiths shine. It's been an honor for me to work with these
  2. Hello all, You know how sometimes you have to do something, just because it’s fun.... this was one of those. Here is a fully-functional (of course) small version of one of my Hunter styles you can wear around your neck. I did my best with the pix but, pearl is a bugger to photograph. I think it’ll all come through though. I hope you like her. Thanks again, J. This Neck knife is just a small version of one of my Hunter styles, hence the name. This little full-tang knife is forged from 440 layers of high carbon damascus steel (1095-1084-5160 steels in the mix) in a "random" pattern.
  3. Hello all, Well, summer is winding down and many are thinking of the upcoming fall season and, since I always get a call for some BUKs, I thought I’d get a couple out early. I hope you like them and thanks again. J. "B.U.K." (Basic Utility Knife) This is a no-frills, no-nonsense, low-profile work knife. These B.U.Ks are forged from 1/8" thick 1084 high carbon steel (6" overall with a 2 3/4" cutting edge) and have a hand-rubbed finish with forge marked/acid soaked flats and visible hamon/quench line. The handle scales are 1/8" thick “Hunter Orange” (top) and "Olive Green" (bottom) G
  4. Hello All, I know it’s been awhile since I posted anything but, the good news is that I am finishing up the last details on the new knife shop and I'm all moved in now. Also, you will note below, my address is changing but, the phone number, e-mail and web site will all stay the same. Thanks again, J. This new Hunter has the look that would fit wonderfully on a saddle or gun belt. This piece has a 7 3/8" blade, with a straight back and slightly swept tip, forged in a "forced random" pattern damascus. The S-guard is forged from carbon steel with accent filed tips and has an "antique
  5. Hello all, Here is another piece I had some fun with. I’ve done pattern welded spikes and I’ve done Big spikes, here’s my first mix of the two with a nice John Cohea sheath as well. I hope you like it. Thanks again, J. Here is a clip-point version of my "Big Spike" Railroad spike knife in a "pattern welded" version, which means splitting the spike 3 ways down the length of the first half of the spike and forge welding in 15N20 steel. The "plus size" high carbon steel railroad spike is then twisted and forged into a blade. The handle is twisted and acid soaked, leaving a nice forge
  6. Thanks guys. Yes, this is the cleanest it will ever look. I'm bi on organization in the shop but, not so much on sweeping up. As to the grinders... the 4 wheel is the way to go in m opinion, if you can afford it. I used the Grizzly grinders for years because I could pick one up back then for about $275.00. They work great for most things but, not all. I still use them for rough work and flattening as well as handle work though.
  7. Hello all, I want to apologize for my recent delay in responses to e-mail and phone calls. As many of you know I have been working to build a new shop for about the past 7 months. Well, it’s finally done and tomorrow I will fire up the forges and start the grinders, once I finish up my e-mail replies tonight and tomorrow morning. ; ) This is a big change from the old bank barn and milk house with the office up at the house. I put up a 30’ x 40’ metal pole barn and added spray foam insulation and gypsum board for the walls and I have a double foil ceiling that will last me at least a few
  8. You never know, I was planning on doing a few mosaics in a canoe canister and framing them in ball-bearings.
  9. Yeah, we work so hard making this damn damascus I want to use every last little bit.
  10. I usually do 3-4 heats before I peal the can off. Then either slice it up and forge those bars for the more "round" bearings or you can take the whole billet and streach it, twist it, whatever.
  11. Thanks guys, I appreciate it. The Frontier pattern is no secret at all Mseronde. I save all of my damascus "scraps" from billet ends and cut outs and when I have enough, I clean them all up (that's the worst part, grinding clean all those small pieces) and forge weld them into a canister (like my ball-bearing and meteorite blades). You can get some wild and crazy patterns, almost like a quilt.
  12. No, sorry. didn't show the actual forging. I use a 35 ton press I built several years ago so the forging is the easier part of the process. The set-up is the tricky part.
  13. No worries at all. Contact Kelly Cupples, he's the one I get all of my powdered steel from and he's a great guy to deal with as well... octihunter@charter.net E-mail him and ask him for a listing of what he has available, I'm sure you'll be at least happy if not impressed.
  14. I do my ball-bearing damascus in a canister weld using 1095 powder as a binder. I've got a Youtube video as well with some tips on doing this as well...
  15. Here are a few more pieces that have been waiting to be posted... Here is one of my "Crossover" Belt knives in 52100 steel with a trigger guard, file worked thumb rest and handle scales of Cocobola Burl wood. Here is a Field/Bush knife done in etched 52100 with multiple quench lines with wrought iron guard and threaded pommel and an Elk antler handle. Here is another Crossover Belt knife (standard version) in hand rubbed 52100 and Desert Ironwood Burl handle scales. Here is a Field/Bush knife in "Frontier" pattern damascus steel with a top scraping edge, silica bronze h
  16. My 52100 ball-bearing damascus still seems to be one of my most popular steels and I keep playing with different ideas folks give me. Hope you like them. J. Here is one of my BUK knives in BB damascus with Black G-10 handle scales and a matching Kydex sheath. Here is a Stag Crown Bowie with a wrought iron oval guard and laminate damascus throat, as well as a nice hamon/quench line. Here is one of my "Fancy" Clip-point Hunter knives in Desert Ironwood Burl and a throat of stabilized Giraffe bone. Here's one of my Mini Neck/Push Daggers (flat backed) with handle scales o
  17. I've been all kinds of busy the last few months but, I gotta sit down and post a few of the recent pieces I've done. Hope you like them. J. Here is anew version of the old "Combat Knife" done in 5160 and black canvas micarta with all of the steel wearing my antiqued finish. Here is another variation of my Saw-blade carving sets done with a clip-point blade and both pieces have Desert Ironwood scales. Here is one of my "Big Spike" large railroad spike knives in a pattern welded version. Here are a trio of Saw-blade Santoku knives with Cocobola handle scales for a trio
  18. Yes, the finish holds up very well as it's into the steel surface and not just a coating.
  19. I've posted this on different places, several times so let's go again! No sweat, it's actually pretty easy. You can finish your blade up to a 400 grit finish and then coat it with plain yellow (cheap) mustard. I usually coat the blade and then us a Popsicle stick to add "highs & lows" to the mustard (kinda lightly smack the blade with the stick). You can let the mustard sit on the blade for as long as you like (I’ve left it on for as long as 2 weeks). If you leave the mustard on overnight, you'll have a good dark finish. The longer you leave the mustard on, the more patterning you wil
  20. Thanks guys. Robert I use a ferric acid and distilled water mix of 1x4. The acid I get from Radio Shack under the name PCB etchant, it used for circuit boards. Make sure to use distilled water, anything else might have contaminates that can screw up your etch. Hope this helps, J.
  21. Hello All, Here is the second knife available in the new Cru-forge V steel I’m using. I really wanted to keep this one for myself but, I was reminded I’m in the process of building a new shop, so..... I hope you like it. J. This new "Woodsman's Knife" is a hidden-tang Clip-point Hunter forged from Cru-forge V high carbon steel. The blade is 5 1/4" and has forge-marked and acid soaked flats as well as my "antiqued" finish and the flats and bevels. The contoured guard is silica bronze with a matching hammered set pin in the handle. The handle itself is pressed and stacked leather wit
  22. Hello all, Well, I’ve been working with and testing some Cru-forge V steel I got from Kelly Cupples for several months now and I’ll be posting my first couple of available pieces today. This is a great new steel for me and I know I’ll be doing a lot more blades with these steel, especially with my “antiqued” finish since it takes one so well. I hope you like them as well. Thanks again, J. Here is a re-creation of my "Forest Ghost" model in Cru-forge V and a bit ... darker. This full-tang Drop-point Hunter is forged from edge-quenched Cru-forge V high carbon steel with a 4 1/2" c
  23. Hello All, I hope everyone enjoyed or is still enjoying the holidays. This is a kind of tradition I’ve tried to keep up each year even though I get some "ribbing” from my friends. I hope you like them. Thanks again, J. "Pink Specials"... Simple Swift and Dart Belt Knives Here are a couple from a group of my special addition "Pinkie" belt knives that I try to make for Valentine's Day. These have also become popular Cancer Awareness gifts as well. All of these blades match my standard patterns and are forged from 1/8" thick 1084 high carbon steel with visible quench/hamo
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