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Jonathan Hall

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About Jonathan Hall

  • Birthday 12/31/1981

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Willamette Valley, Oregon
  • Interests
    Palaeolithic blade and tool design
    Historical Northern European and Slavic blade and tool designs
    Blacksmithing
    Consuming distilling brewing various Wines, Beer, Spirits and Mead

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  1. Does anyone know original specs on these swords, variations etc
  2. A problem i ran into when i was working with bottom blown charcoal forges of that design, was that after awhile, the build up of clinkers and solids on the bottom, and whatever else the forced air couldnt blow out, would eventually diminish the airflow and reduce the potency of the fire itself. Its good for short projects, but when you are first starting out things take a little longer.
  3. For me the blown burner was the least complicated and most cost efficient setup. Geoff walked me through the details, and with some fine tuning of the fuel to air mix you get an incredibly potent forge
  4. http://rigger.hegewisch.net/marlinspike-name.html
  5. Jonathan Hall

    Finnish-ed

    Thats a nice little knife
  6. To judge the knives, it may be easiest to mail the finished pieces to a willing moderator for testing
  7. He began by making a "U" shape out of mild steel steel and put a higher carbon bit inside, am I correct in what I saw?
  8. These were actually pretty challenging to make, ive never tried to make tongs before. I think id rather buy them
  9. This was actually something i was curious about as well, securing the pommel and making sure everything is tight.
  10. The shape of the blade is what makes the style, i dont believe many have come up with with an original shape that hasnt been created in history yet within the last few decades. However the folder they were refering to has internal parts and an assisted opening design that maybe original and even patented.
  11. If i suspected that an old peice of metal was wrought and of i couldnt cut on it for a splinter test, would sanding a section of it shiny and putting some ferric chloride on it to find a grain pattern like BP said be an accurate alternative? Im asking because sometimes ill also see stuff at garage sales and estate sales that could possibly be wrought iron, like old fire pokers, old tools etc. im surrounded by old logging and farming communities and there is alot of stuff to pick through, so im trying to come up with quick easy way to identify this elusive iron with out damaging the peice.
  12. This may have been covered before gentlemen, if so i apologize. To my point.....so i keep my eyes open for deals on metal and such from sites like craigslist and want ads, etc, and i notice that there are quite a few advetisements for so called "wrought iron". I know That 3/4 of these solicitors are obviously unaware that what they are offering is not in fact wrought iron, and that its either cast iron or mild steel made to look as such. Since Wrought iron is always good to have around the shop my question is, besides the obvious fact that wrought iron doesnt come in hollow tubing( that im aware of), how can you tell what your looking at is genuine wrought.
  13. I was watching a video of a Japanese sword smith who was demonstrating the forging process from the very beginning. He began by selecting different pieces of the tamahagane they had made earlier, by how pliable vs how brittle the pieces were and separated them into two little stacks, the pliable for the core was on one side and the brittle pieces for the blade and outside body was on the other. Bear in mind that I know little to nothing about Japanese bladesmithing methods, but his selection process really interested me, although, after I thought about it, it seemed like common sense.
  14. Theres a German style sallet in that book that belonged to a Burgundian noblemen named Philip "The Handsome", that's a fantastic name.
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