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A Flor

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  1. I read sometime back of soldiers needing knives. Does anyone have a contact to call or write to donate knives? Any help would be appreciated. Josh
  2. Petrobond is commercially made. Gives great definition. It's spendy, but by the time you shift through sand, mull, oil plus your time, may be worth it to you. Visit My Website I use a Gingery Furnance. The center lifts up so the cruciable comes out horizonally. (Don't have to look into the furnace and lift "up' hot metal.) I've not tryed it with iron. But it will melt brass and bronze with no problem. Can be made with scraps of angle iron, pipe, sheet metal and common hardware. I used a refractory for the walls. (As I recall, about $80.00) Good luck. Visit My Website
  3. From reading the thread, my first 'suspect' would be the 'borax'. Clean the steel billet and try another borax from a different source. Just my 2 cents.
  4. I go to the faires also. They're a blast. My firends and I go as a Norsemen..Ha! Sell some stuff, have some ale.. have a blast. Ha! Thanks for sharing. Josh
  5. Good work. I really like your seax. Look like it would be at home in the 9th or 10th century..
  6. I think it looks good from what I could see of the whole knife (pic cut out the blade..) The carving reminds me of 'celtic'..'norse'?? I say 'norse' because I've seen simarlar montiffs on jewelry, carvings and some shields. 8th-1000th century. Good work. Josh
  7. From my reading of Norse/Viking swords found, they 'peened' the end of the tang to the pommel. If this was the practice with swords, would they follow the same practice with seaxs? As you said, unknown..but I would think that peening the handle to the tang would follow the Norse/Viking practice of weapon design.Just my thoughts.
  8. Hi.. I need something large to heat treat swords. I saw the forge Don Fogg made on this site to heat treat swords and wish to know how it works. I can get 12" pipe for the body.. I assume the burners are simarlar to the ones used in the vertical knife making furance. (I built one and works excellent.) I've never used a digital temperture control before controlling gas. If anyone could give a brief synops on it's operation and connection to the fuel; on/off, spark plug ignition, how it controls the gas valve, etc, it would be appreciated. Or perhaps plans or a rough drawing. Any suggesti
  9. Bryan.. That is a cool grinder.. :notworthy: Good work! Josh
  10. Hi John.. I'll try Magic Marker. Thanks for the tip.. I was practicing with the sen more and and am finding it very useful. I have a few projects that involves castings for a homemade horizonal mill. The ways have to be scrapped. I think this would be the cat's meow for such a project. Again, thanks for the tip. Josh
  11. Brian and Scott hit it on the head. Not that I'm echoing their thoughts, but I can only stress what they are saying. Although alot of guides from steel companies can show a temp, remember this is a mean temperture for larger stock as it is rolled off the lines. Smaller stock (like knives, small parts etc..) can be as much as 50-100 degree difference in my experience. Also, as Brian pointed out, depending on how you harden can effect it (clay, full harden, edge harden). Try tempering at 375 and raise it 25 degrees until you get the desired effect. Everyones technique is different as well
  12. Long time ago I started out with files, sandpaper, grinding wheel, old forge and homemade tools.. Bought a bunch of stuff that would fill a machine shop then decided to find my 'higher' self. I went back to files, sandpaper, grinding wheel, old forge and homemade tools... Life is truly a circle.. Anyway, I degress.. I saw on this site a thing called a 'sen'.. I never heard of one but it was on my 'to do' list as soon as I did the other 'to do' stuff.. I made one looking at the pics here out of some 1080 stuff I had. I used a machinists square to ensure the edge was straight.
  13. Thats an attractive knife. Line flow is excellent. Looks good, but also looks like it can work.. Josh
  14. Both are very nice.. I especally like the one on the left. Very unique and offers a kind of 'old world' look. Good work.. Josh
  15. Not wanting to get philosophical or deep, I forge for one reason. Everytime I do it, it's something 'primal' if you will. I can go back in time. Doing the craft smiths did for thousands of years. Call it a 'kinship' if you will. Maybe I'm not putting it into words correctly. I think any smith knows what I'm talking about. Josh
  16. Hi.. Try to forge the blade as close to shape as you can, including the edge, racasso, handle area etc... Think of it like sculpting clay, except your working hot metal.. Although I have two grinders, I have returned to using the old file and hand tools and elbow grease for most of the work. Do as much finishing as you can, taking care not to make the edge too thin. This will cause warping on the edge when hardening. I used an oven now (triple temper) for blades..just the old toaster oven.. But I used to take a 1/2" piece of copper plate and put it over the forge. Heat thew copper (yo
  17. I suppose you could experiment with water/brine..some use it. But IMHO, unless your doing some kind experiments to get the water quench down to an art for some reason of your own, there's alot of work that goes into a blade just to have it crack. Steel is getting spendy.. Further, I don't see any real advantage to water quench over oil. At least for the purposes of a 10 series steel and for making a good blade. At least nothing one would notice. Been working with 1084 and 1095 until I could'nt find anymore 1084. Then I went to 1080. Never had a problem with the 10 series with oil and gave
  18. You can get fireclay in 25 or 50 lb bags.. It's dry and in a very fine powder. Mix it with water. Ingrediant for furnance repair, kilns, fireplaces etc..etc.. You can get it at fireplace dealers, ceramic shops etc.. Josh
  19. Go to the hardware store and get furnance cement (3000 degree but the 2300 would work..) Mix 50/50 furnance cement and satanite or fireclay..you could probably get by with less furnace cement, it's just easier for me to 'guesstamate'.. The cement simply acts as a binder. Mix it so it's 'pasty' and easy to work but not runny..just alittle of water at a time..does'nt take alot.. Spread very thin (paper thin) about 1/3 of the way up..increase thickness to the spine to about little over 1/8". You can do some little designs in the clay wherew the hamon will be....Whatever you draw in the cla
  20. Good Work!! Looks like it will serve you well.. :notworthy: Josh
  21. Hi.. Thanks to all for the help.. I've been playing with the camera and cut down on the light.. Here is a pic.. Not the greatest, but better.. Any more suggestions appreciated.. Josh
  22. I thought I'd post this for new makers. There are alot of tools out there used and on Ebay. Some are good buys. Others are just plain trash. Others, if you investigate just alittle, can be gotten alot cheaper. One of the biggest 'asset' for 'sellers' is I call it 'buy it now'. That is, your so excited about a new machine, you do little investigating and inspection. Before buying any machine (big investment), make up your mind your going to shop, learn about the machine and compariable options. Example: I was in the market sometime back for a lathe. I advertised and got a respons
  23. I always make an offering to the 'Hops Gods" (Not 'Hopi'.. ) But since they don't drink, hate to see it go to waste, I drink the beer myself... Works for me.. Josh
  24. I suspect it's either the gas not directed straight down, or the use of the 'pipe' sleeve for the nozzle, not being a dedicated nozzle if I'm understanding you correctly.. If there is a wide enough gap between the burner and the 'sleeve' your using as the nozzel, you could be sucking air between the walls and the sleeve not acting as a nozzel or the burner is not adjusted correctly in the sleeve.. I'd take it out and put a nozzel on if the gas is ok and test it. Eliminate one issue at a time. As said, venturi burners are tempermental and anything out of adjustment can effect burn. Josh
  25. I could'nt see the burner. Did you test the burner outside the forge? Secound, check your gas outlet. If the hole is off just a tiny bit, it will cause it to burn irractically or not give a full burn.. The gas MUST be directed straight down. Any deflection and it will not burn correctly. Does it have a nozzle? Running straight pipe on a venturi will cause it to do as you said 'puff out'.. The nozzle must be adjusted to the correct position on the end of the burner. If the nozzle is extending too far past the end of the burner, or not far enough, the burn will be wrong. If it does hav
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