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  1. To clarify, what would "slightly off temp" be?
  2. Kevin, Yes I did. I went up to 1550, soak, and let it air cool twice. The third time I shut down the drum and let it cool slowly inside. Matt
  3. Hey all, I have made several knives our of 52100 and the last 2 I have been working up I decided to do a cryo treatment in dry ice and acetone. I began by forging out the 3/4 52100 bar then used a belt sander to get it to the final shape and gave it a 120 grit finish. I heat treated them in a 55 gal drum forge with a thermocoupler at 1550 degrees with a 15 min soak. I did it 3 times and quenched in 140 degree canola oil. Then in to an oven for 2 cycles of 2 hours at 375. Dry ice and acetone for 36 hours and then back in the oven for 2 more 2 hour cycles at 375 degrees. When I was doing
  4. Cylvre, Thanks for the input. I hadn't considered going vertical but it sounds like a good idea. Matt
  5. Hey all, I have been looking into my options for getting a better more controlled environment for heat treating and so I settled on the drum forge. My question is that I am wanting to run it vertically to save on space. I don't need the length for the longer blades as of yet. I am planning on using a 52 gallon drum and lining it with 1 inch of inswool then coating it with a refractory cement. I would use an atmospheric burner and have it enter about 4 inches from the bottom and then I would have a hole in the side at about 25 inches to put in the blades. I was figuring on building a li
  6. Thanks Dave This is a smaller blade so I am not concerned with warping. Matt
  7. Hey all, I haven't made many knives so I have managed to forget how thick the edge should be for heat treating. Thanks, Matt
  8. Hey all, I am working on a knife made from cable damascus and I have a brass guard on it. I would rather not use a silver colored solder. Even tho it won't really show up I would rather have a solder color that blends with the material. Is there anything available? Thanks, Matt
  9. I contacted lenox technical support to find out for sure what it was. It is a proprietary spring steel that is similar to D6A.
  10. The sparks did start off red then go yellow. I found the box that it came it. It is a Lenox LXP blade. I checked their website and it is a bimetal blade.
  11. Hey all, I have a friend who can get me band saw blades that are about 14ft long and 1.25 inches wide after the teeth are removed. I am thinking about making some stacks and then forge welding them to get a layering affect instead of using cable. How do I make sure that I have workable steel? Also, does it sound like this will work? Any other input would be appreciated. I also would be happy to cut one up and send it in a flat rate envelope via USPS to someone who has some experience forge welding and wouldn't mind testing it out. This is just a hobbie for me so it w
  12. I had some intrest so I figured I would post some details... The design features: --- 4 inch drive wheel --- platen -- This will mount to the tool arm with 2 idler pullies out front and the platen can be removed. See the post with the pics by Tracy Dotson. This like the platen and grinder that will be built. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?sh...=4436&st=40 --- The pullies would come from http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/ Important note... Due to shipping and your own injunity and needs no motor will be provided. I can build you a grinder for $590. N
  13. Hi all, I am wanting to build a belt sander off of the plans of the KGM Clone in the "tools" section. I have access to the equipment needed to build it but the cash flow for such a toy is a bit low. I was hoping to build 2 and keep one for myself and sell the other one to pay for material expenses for both units. The cost to the person buying the KGM clone would be the materials to build the two of them. I checked on the steel locally and it looks like I can get most everything needed. A piece of 3/4 X 5 X 18 (16 inches are needed) was about $18. I didn't price out everything c
  14. Would a larger internal diameter forge heat more evenly than a smaller forge. Say like a 4 incher compared to a 6-8 incher? It seams to me that on a larger one it would be easier to keep the work out of the direct heat of the burner flame. Or is it not an issue at all?
  15. Thanks for the input. I am using satanite to line it and also some Bubble Alumina Refractory Coating which is supposed to resist the flux pretty well. Where do you have your burner located in the forge ( I assume it is not in the middle if you make it smaller)? This also has me wondering about when you do use it on its full length does it heat evenly when it is time to heat treat the blade?
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