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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

JJ Simon

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JJ Simon last won the day on May 2

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  1. Love it! Would love to see how you built it.
  2. To get that off, use a torch to melt the copper and allow it to roll off. The rest of what everyone says is true, you need a proper crucible. You can use a solid fuel forge to smelt in but its tough. You should also put a small bit of charcoal in the crucible. Copper is real oxygen sensitive.
  3. You guys rock! I will have tongs at ashokan. Anyone who needs a special size or for specific shapes please message me. Or post here.
  4. Yes you could weld a 4140 face on but you have to quench it. S7 is air hardening. The other suggestions here are correct. You will loose efficiency but it is a solution. I have a post anvil of 4X4 mild with a 4x4x2 S7 block welded on top and it works very well for what it is. It does not replace even a decent anvil.
  5. Another option is get a half inch four by four piece of S7 which can be heat treated simply and then stick welded to the face of your 4X4 block.
  6. Geometry and temper create a fillet knife. It has to snap back, you're making a spring so temper accordingly. However if the geometry is too thick it wont flex well. I like the shape, looks a little short.
  7. Steel needs to be hardened and well polished, at least to 500. soak in instant coffee. 1095 will probably not turn black but will be darker.
  8. HI Jim, for some reason my messenger is not working.
    Please feel free to email me at colorblind72@comcast.net about tongs.
    Would love to sell you a set.

  9. So simply elegant. Just wonderful.
  10. If you want to know if the controller is off set it to the solution temp and check it with a magnet.
  11. Well, it hardened in the water or it wouldn't have cracked while going through transformation. I'd suggest breaking it the rest of the way and looking at your grain.
  12. Was it thicker than 1/8 at the edge? You can reheat treat as many times as it takes. What kind of steel?
  13. Thanks guys. I appreciate it. The customer seems very pleased.
  14. Thanks Alan. Brian, the only way you can leave topology with this is to leave it in for 24 hours or more. Thats according to what I've read.
  15. If you see Salem Straubs work on here I'm pretty sure hes etching in it. It is the easiest way to do it. Just mix in cold water and dip for an hour. There's no neutralization when you take it out. Just rinse and dry and oil.