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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

JJ Simon

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JJ Simon last won the day on November 9

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  1. Renaissance Sidesword WIP

    Wow! Just amazing
  2. Reflection to the ancient steel.

    Sometimes there is nothing that can be done with trolls except give them the cross.
  3. Blade warping O1

    http://www.cashenblades.com/steel/o1.html There are some excellent replies here. Grind can be a factor. Uneven heat can be a factor. Too fast a quench can be a factor. So a hot spot cooling in the quench compared to a cold spot next to it. I have no idea how you are keeping the knife at temp for 10-15 minutes with no air running in your forge. Air should not be blasting on the part at any time anyway. So if you can keep a small trickle of air to keep the heat in the forge that would be ideal. O1 has a huge hardening window. Between 10-30 seconds It quenches so slow it can be plate or air hardened in thin cross sections. If you allow the knife to cool on a flat surface like your anvil after quenching it the coldness from the anvil will suck the remaining heat out of the blade on the one side and can cause the knife to bow. So after the quench take the time to adjust any warps while martensite is growing. You have a window and you can tell when the window closes because the steel goes from semi plastic to super hard. Especially with O1 which full hardened is around 66 rockwell. So learn to make adjustments when the steel is still hot after the quench and then immediately get it in the temper oven. Also you can straighten warps while tempering by taking two pieces of flat stock and put them on each side of the blade. Put a shim on the bow and clamp the two plates together. You've made a 3 point jig and can temper with it on. I use a penny for the shim. And have straightened very very thin 1095 with multiple warps so bad it looked like a ribbon.
  4. How bout another bowie WIP?

    Thanks Alan. He said it better than I could have. I will say that I quench 1075-15n20 mix in 11 second oil but I don't interrupt and it hardens quite well. I just hardened 1084 in 11 second oil also.
  5. How bout another bowie WIP?

    Thinned clay is more workable and I think sticks better. If you want to do pattern weld you will need appropriate quench medium. Parks isn't that expensive when you think about how long it lasts. At least a decade. And what you get from it. Which is less problems, less cracks, full hardening. So less head aches.
  6. How bout another bowie WIP?

    Yep you got Utsuri and also ashi. If you buy some Parks 50 you will probably get more of the activity that you want. And The trick with refractory cement is to add a little water to get it to the consistency of creamy peanut butter. You can make it the consistency of clay you see in japanese sword smithing videos. Then apply it and heat treat it. You can even heat treat it without drying it though it does puff up.
  7. How bout another bowie WIP?

    What are you using for clay? When you have a hamon the only portion that is truly hardened is below the hamon. Japanese swords warp all the time in cutting. Both bends and twists. They are straightened with a set of hand held wooden jigs that allow a person to either counter twist them or bend them side to side. I would guess that if you had a twist you could have probably taken it out with a vise and a twisting wrench without cracking the blade. The blade in the first pic an the blade in the pic where you say you got Utsuri both have ashi. Just not a lot of roll to the habuchi, the line. The hamon is everything. Its the whole thing not just the line.
  8. How bout another bowie WIP?

    Hamon is created by a combination of factors coming together at one point. Clay layout, Time, Temp, Geometry and speed of quench. This is why you can get an autohamon out of steel with no clay but an appropriate temp and quench medium. If you want specific shaped hamon you need the proper steel, proper layout and for sure the correct speed of quench. A hamon .25" from the inch is not a problem.
  9. Back in the game

    Fantastic Alan. Glad your health issues are getting under control. Always inspiring to see your work.
  10. What did you do in your shop today?

    Thanks Joshua.
  11. Help picking out my next hammer

    Hammer faces need to be crowned a little or the corners dig in. Rounding hammers have a dramatic crown on one face and a normal crown on the other. The difference is the round drives material away from it differently than a square face hammer. Really good black smiths will use the 5 parts of a hammer face for different things. So the cheeks which are the two sides of the crown and chin and nose which are the top and bottom of the face and then the center. This will allow you to draw or tuck into corners. The idea of the drastic crown of a rounding hammer allows for drawing on the bick or the end of the anvil as long as the anvil has been dressed properly.
  12. What did you do in your shop today?

    More tongs. Customers are now ordering custom orders too. The little 3/16 tong is a variation of a kind of tang tong I saw recently. Works great for the little stock.
  13. Help picking out my next hammer

    Swedish pattern. Long handle. Polish the faces well.
  14. What did you do in your shop today?

    Wow Alan. Awesome!
  15. Help on quenching oils

    Having industrial quench oil is the way to go. O1 has a huge hardening window so you could buy Mcmasterr 11 second oil. But for many other steels parks 50 is the way to go.