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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

JJ Simon

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JJ Simon last won the day on December 13 2016

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  1. Maybe after Blade I will do a photo set.
  2. Also I would start with the weak side grind first. Index your belt about 2mm in from the edge of the platen. I use a small magnet with a U shaped handle on it to hold the back side of the blade and I hold the tang in my hand.
  3. Remember you're using a tool. The tool is supposed to do the work.
  4. Tim Lively did a simple but very effective charcoal forge out of a kind of small trough bucket. The bottom had a black steel pipe with evenly spaced holes drilled in it as the Tyure with cob packed around it and walls that were angled that allowed charcoal to sit evenly in the trough. Remember that your hot spot for forging only needs to be a few inches. You are only working a few inches at a time on any given part of the knife so a small forge will work fine for you. https://www.google.com/search?q=Tim+Lively+forge&client=ubuntu&hs=R25&channel=fs&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjRjZmD3r3TAhUM7YMKHVeOCXEQ_AUICSgC&biw=1301&bih=641
  5. God this is great! Alan, what are Die Sinker chisels?
  6. Practice with wood. Get a 1/4" piece. Grind your profile and then your bevels and tang etc. As far as what it takes to grind well here are a few steps. Profile scribe center lines on your edges grind a 45 degree bevel to the center line leaving about the thickness of a dime Grind the highest point of that 45 degree angle off to make it into a shallower angle that begins to meet the flat of the blade stock. Then grind the high spot of that angle until you get to your ridge line or close to the spine. Do not grind all the way to the spine. Get a file guide for sharp shoulders and plunges. Good belts seal the deal. The cheaper the belt the worse the tracking and the quicker they burn up. It has taken me a long time to learn this lesson but now I only use Cubitrons for primary blade grinding then I use Trizac gators.
  7. Thanks Sam, I make production runs of bladesmith tongs based on Sams method. I have been making some wolf jaws and they are challenging. I will offer a few suggestions from my limited experience. Start with round stock. Its easier to move into final dimension and doesn't have the sharp corners that drag into your offsets. The advantage to learning how to forge a set of tongs properly is that it gives a new smith certain repeatable skills. For instance how to forge a set of one side shoulders in 3 different directions. How to draw stock into a reign and how to punch and rivet. For efficiency I drill but if you learn how to punch it allows for a certain look and material dimension that is nice. This is Brian Brazeal doing a demo on clay. Learn how to do this and you have made your skills better and they will translate to all of your blade making endeavors.
  8. If you're able to machine. One of the things you can do is machine inlets to take carbide inserts. That way you can temper back below file hardness and the carbide inserts are what contact the file. You can also use it on the belt sande.
  9. Today in the shop was actually a $hi%% show. But yesterday I finished this.
  10. I asked Kelly about oil in december and he had it in stock.
  11. I don't know about linseed oil sanding. Maybe if you thinned it a little with acetone? My intuition says as long as its thin enough, yes. Its a question of how quickly it gets tacky.
  12. Its likely they had jigs to bend on and to. This is a great project and I'm enjoying the progress pics. Thanks,
  13. You can also sand with acetone to bring up the hairs and then remove them. Also you can sand with tru or tung oil which will mix with the wood dust and fill the voids.
  14. Awesome, thanks for the tutorial.
  15. Love this thing!