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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

JJ Simon

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JJ Simon last won the day on May 2

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  1. I'm done but will be traveling during the KITH drawing. I will ship when I get home.
  2. Gentlemen this is my finished KITH. I will be traveling next week and unable to put my name in as done. Admin please do this for me. I will ship when I get back home. Thanks, Good luck everyone.
  3. Thanks Josh.
  4. Its a very good start. I will make a suggestion since I've attempted two of these and snapped the tip off both. Forge thick, Grind thick. Heat treat thick, grind post heat treat to final dimension. They have a tendency to get a bit noodle like in heat treat.
  5. Its 1095. Heat treat was perfect. Will grind later this week.
  6. This is the KITH that is getting ready to be heat treated.
  7. That sucks. Good luck. I hope you are able to sort it out.
  8. I would suggest taking it apart and relieving the areas of contact other than the spots Emilliano is referring to. I'm assuming you wood glued it. You can hit the seam with a heat gun and gently start to pull it apart. Or you can soak a rag in vinegar and saturate the seam and then wrap the saya for 15 minutes and start to wiggle it. As it begins to come apart apply more vinegar.
  9. Aldo's 1075 makes great hamon. As always there are numerous reasons why you didn't get a hamon. It should be visible at 220. You could have through hardening. Your clay could have been too thick? Or too thin. Speed of oil may not have allowed it or the geometry didn't allow it. There are so many possibilities you have to go one by one and try to eliminate them.
  10. stunning!!!
  11. You can build a furnace for an even heat treat. It will have to be long or tall depending on if you do it vertical or horizontal. I have a vertical one that will take a 43 inch blade. it does have some heat issues from top to bottom. Its hard to regulate. If you want to go low tech. Make a long enough tyure and a V shaped trough that it can lay in the bottom of. Heat up a charge of charcoal and then sit the blade in it. You don't need the air on. Just let it come up to temp. Once in a while you may need a little air draft but it wont take much. Do this at night and you will be able to see the color of the blade and if there are any shadows in it. Make sure you have a suitable quench medium. Tempering is also a challenge. I just did a 40" blade with a 3" ricasso and tempered it first with a heated bar of steel. Heating the bar and then laying the blade on it. The blade will pull heat from it. Probable best to clean the blade so you can see the temper colors. Long blades like that can be tempered to a spring. Straightening is also a challenge. I use a piece of angle and a 3 point clamping system that allows me to heat any stubborn spots with a torch.
  12. A word on belts. Cheaper belts track worse than high end belts.
  13. Kelly Cupples has Parks the last time I checked.
  14. Geometry is based on the angle and the angle is based on thickness from spine to edge. So if the spine is 3/16 and your edge before sharpening is .01 there will be a corresponding angle. I generally am more concerned with edge thickness before sharpening than the angle. So a work knife I will sharpen between .01-.008. Get a digital micrometer. Then when you are at thickness put a secondary bevel on and sand/polish to a desired grit. 220 will be toothy. 600 will be more razor like though both will shave hair.