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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

JJ Simon

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  1. Sorry Scott. Just saw this. I am completely out of stock. Waiting for my next order of blanks and I will announce when I have them back in. Thanks for the interest.
  2. Thanks Josh. This run is almost sold out. I don't expect to come back from ashokan with any left. I will be looking into a new run by the first of the year. And maybe expanding to some hand forged tongs. Scrolling and wolf jaws. let me know if there is any interest.
  3. My pleasure. There is some good stuff out there on smithing. But you have to do a lot of hunting.
  4. Crisp and clean. I like it a lot!
  5. Nick is a very very good smith and teacher. I've been fortunate enough to hang out with him a few times and hold his work in my hands. All top notch. Yeah the movement of the anvil would bother me too.
  6. Draw what you intend to make. Work from one end and then from the other if you are making a stick tang. If you are making a full tang work from the tip of the blade and then work from the heel of the blade into the handle transition. Don't file anything with scale on it. Soak the steel in white vinegar or muriatic acid. Muriatic will take 20 minutes vinegar overnight. Files only cut in one direction. So don't pull it back and forth. Make sure your file has a handle and push it. To file a bevel, file the edge to a dimes thickness at a steep angle then take the high spots off where that angle starts to meet the flat of the blade. Get a file cared and keep your file clean. Belt sanders are nice but there are certain things that files are indispensable for. This video is a very good lesson on how to forge a blade. He does everything on a small scale you need to do on a larger scale. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpeyhC-UIFg Nick is an excellent smith also. Both videos will help.
  7. Doing a hook like that you would leave a mass at the tip and file the hook in after normalizing and removing the scale. As a beginner you're going to have an easier time working on something simple. A drop point hunter is pretty simple shape. Really work on learning to forge clean and forge tapers and bevels. So in order. Forge the tip or the tang first. Forge bevels, keep everything straight and clean. Normalize 3X File or grind your profile, what it looks like from the side. File or grind your bevels leave it about the thickness of a dime at the edge. Heat to around 1500, just above non magnetic. Quench in a suitable oil. Temper 3X. This takes the stress out of the steel and makes it less brittle. Finish grinding or hand sand. Make a handle and attach and shape it. Sharpen.
  8. I have etched one hamon with coffee. Worked fine. Even before clean up the ashi was clearly visible.
  9. That is fantastic. Thanks for the WIP!
  10. Any alcohol based inks will work. Doc Martins, FW, India ink but as Alan said you only need a tiny little bit.
  11. Congratulations. You've come a long way in a short time. Your efforts show.
  12. Great knife! Very sexy.
  13. Its hard to tell. Some forges great and some just crumbles. I don't remember what the chemical difference is that causes the problem but every piece I've ever tried to forge fell apart.
  14. Tempering at 400 is going to put you at 58 rockwell if your heat treatment was right. This is a bit high hardness for something that is supposed to flex on contact. I can't find any info on historic Katana hardness but European swords according to my research was at least low 50's.