Jump to content

JJ Simon

Supporting Member
  • Content Count

    1,629
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

Everything posted by JJ Simon

  1. So sorry to hear you won't make it Bill. Hope all treatments go well and you're up and kicking soon. I have a dozen sets of tongs for the hammer in. First come first serve.
  2. I'm in 2. Bruno 3. Brian Dougherty 4. Alex Middleton 5. MichaelP 6. Will Drake 7. Zeb Camper  8. Joël Mercier 9. Jeremy Blohm 10. Geoff Keyes 11. Jason Volkert 12. Pieter-Paul Derks 13. Michael Ward 14. Robert Dowse 15. Alan Longmire 16. Chris Briggs 17. Nikolai Briggs? 18. Jeff Heinen 19. Joshua States 20. JJ Simon
  3. They went in wet. They held together it was just to make sure the ore didn't blow out the top of the furnace. Didn't cause any problems.
  4. The antiscale works great. I'm looking forward to getting some of the hamon clay.
  5. Unless specially stated mild steel is usually A36 and its garbage for forge welding.
  6. There are a few issues here and the first I can comment on is unless you know this steel is 1008 or 1018 as opposed to A36 you can have all sorts of weld failures. A36 is a variable steel made to only make spec in its toughness. That means steel companies can put anything in it to get there. Lots of manganese? Possibly. Which will cause welding issues. Great for hooks and bottle openers and absolute garbage for making blades with tool steel cores. Next if you're getting weld shear when forging that inset preparing for the beard then you may be forging too cold. Or doing too much. Welds shear under stress. If I'm working welded material I work it at welding heat until I'm at the end. Its also easier to see when there are problems.
  7. Having seen the process with punched axe eyes. You might want to make your first operation the half round dent just in front of the eye and then pull the beard down.
  8. Joshua asked me to post this in this thread so here goes. Just the spec. This is a 340 layer random billet of high M 1075 and 15n20 Pattern is created by grinding into the final billet several times in the reduction process. So once when the billet has been final welded and then once at about half reduction. I grind at angle to each other making various crosses and X's. This is coffee etched at 500 grit polish.
  9. Don't eat yellow snow. Don't play leap frog with a unicorn. Success feels great but failure is your teacher.
  10. Jerrod. Does 1550 Austemp seem high on this. Generally I heat treat my mix of 1075 and 15n20 at around 1500. It has always worked well. Figure being near 1550 we're at the edge of growing grain?
  11. Could look into using a treadmill motor. Generally 2hp. Hi torque and speed control
  12. This is a modification of the Monkey tail tong that will allow you to hold axes, hawks and hammer eyes securely while working. I have two pair ready right now. $50 shipped CONUS
  13. I'm glad to ship to the UK. I need your address to check shipping. Thanks,
  14. I have tongs back in stock. Hurry and get them now before I run out. These are bladesmithing tongs. 1-1.25" flat bar. I will also have a limited run of axe eye tongs coming up. PM me if interested.
  15. I have 20 sets of Monkey Tail flat bar tongs. The best bladesmith tong you can use. $50 shipped CONUS. Message me here to buy.
  16. This knife is excellent!. I'm interested in what grit you finished the blade at.
  17. I have 12 sets of tongs for sale right now for anyone who is interested.
  18. Sorry its on my FB account. Not here. I was mistaken.
  19. Making tongs is a very good blacksmithing exercise. The ability to forge offsets, taper properly, keep things in the parent dimension and the rest are all very good skills to have. Learn how to use your anvil for half face blows and use the bick to draw out material quicker and work hot. Also tongs have a lateral offset too. So when you forge them and put them together as a test fit you'll notice they don't line up. The bit and its shank need to kick to one side. What I do is lock the boss in the vice with the bit facing down, grab the bit with a set of tongs and keep it in the center line and then hit the shank to the left with the cross peen. I do this with both sides of the tong and both to left while facing down. That way when you flip the part to match its sister both bits should be close to lining up. Once they are riveted you open them all the way then lock the boss in the vice again from the top and bottom not from the sides and align the bits together. Then grab a piece of the size stock the tong should hold. Lock the bit and the stock in the vice and open your reigns to the right amount for you to have a tight but comfortable grip. I have a thread on here somewhere of building a set of bladesmiths tongs that show it all.
  20. So you can see with these that they are tapered and the corners are broken producing an octagon that is flater on the sides and bottoms but the corners are flat too.https://www.ballardforge.com/tools And you can see clearly here that the corners are broken and see the tapers begin. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/368802656978115111/
×
×
  • Create New...