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SeaRobin

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    http://robi5515@bellsouth.net
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    Picayune, Mississippi

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  1. I have a one of a kind demonstrator’s anvil that I designed and made for myself several years ago. Due to medical issues and old age I was not able to use it. So I have reluctantly decided to sell it. The trunnions on the anvil block allow it to be quickly and easily rotated to use either face. Both faces are hardened. The anvil is 5 ¼” square by about 15” tall, and the base has several possible height adjustments The anvil weighs about 120 lbs, and the base weighs about 50 lbs Price is $950 (including lifting sling and cut off hardy). Shipping charges extra.I’ll get a shipping estimate for you if you send me your address. Anyone interested can contact me at robi5515@bellsouth.net or by phone# 6017980060
  2. Hey folks, you know the old saying, measure twice and cut once. The other night I measured once and cut twice. The end result is that I cut 2 anvils from the 6 1/2 inch 4340 billet to 24 inches instead of 19 inches. Consequently, I need to revise the cost and weight of the 6 1/2 inch anvils. The 24 inch anvils weigh 225 pounds instead of 178 pounds. The cost for the completed anvil will be $1200 each plus shipping. One is already sold. The remaining 6 1/2 inch billet stock will be cut to three anvils of 16 inches each, weighing 150 pounds each. The price for the 150 pound anvils will be $800 each plus shipping. Chuck
  3. Hey folks, Thanks for your kind words about my anvils, Several folks have contacted me about the option of purchasing the Hardened anvil, and building the base assembly themselves. I am willing to do that, but I would strongly suggest they buy my anvil building video first, to see how it's done, and to determine if it is in their individual capabilities to build the base. If you then decide to buy the anvil I will deduct the cost of the video from the anvil price. My wife Brenda, also suggested that I also send a copy of the video to anyone who purchases the complete anvil. She is sure that folks would be interested to see how their anvil was made. If anyone is interested in either option please contact me by email at: robi5515@bellsouth.net. I just contacted my steel supplier and found that the structural steel costs will be less than I originally anticipated, so the actual price of the completed anvils will be $800 fot the 5 1/4" diameter anvil, and $1000 for the 6 1/2" diameter anvil. Both anvils are, plus shipping costs. If you want a copy of the video send $27 to me: Chuck Robinson 1423 3rd Ave.Picayune,MS 39466. This includes priority mail shipping to you. Chuck
  4. Hey folks, I haven't made my adjustable bladesmithing anvils for several years, after I ran out of the 5 .25 inch square billet stock. I recently acquired some 4340 5.25" round billet stock and a smaller amount of 6 1/2 inch 4340. I anticipate that I will be able to make about seven 5.25" by 24 inch anvils weighing about 146 pounds, plus the weight of the base ,and about five 19" x 6.5" anvils weighing about 178 pounds, plus the weight of the base. The base will be similar in in design to my all older models, Similar to the one in the enclosed picture. I'm trying to determine if there is still enough interest in the anvils to justify buying the structural materials needed to make them . Both faces of the anvils would be flame hardened. The cost of the anvils would be $800 for the 5.25" anvil, and $1000 for the 6 1/2 inch anvil, based on the latest steel prices. Plus Freight shipping costs Anyone interested email me at robi5515@bellsouth.net I still have some of my DVD's left ,showing the making of the adjustable blade smithing anvils, for anyone that's interested in trying to make one themselves. Chuck
  5. Hey Doug, Good Luck. I hope you are sucessful. Chuck
  6. Hey Doug, I've just been viewing this thread for the first time, and thought I might make a few suggestions, for whatever they're worth. You have spent so much time and effort into this project that would be a real shame if it didn't come to a successful finish. My concern is that in the final hardening process the different thermal expansion and contraction, of the body of the anvil and your Damascus faceplate, might cause the butt weld to separate. Since your faceplate overlaps the anvil body dimensions, I would suggest that you add a stick or mig fillet weld using stainless wire or rod around the whole circumference of that joint. The weld should be done slowly alternating between all four edges, to ensure that it doesn't cause uneven stresses. During the final heat treatment, after normalizing, I would just use a couple of large Rosebud acelelyne torches to bring the faceplate to critical temperature with the anvil standing upright, and immediately quench using two garden hoses aimed vertically down on the faceplate. Chuck
  7. ote name='JJ Simon' date='22 December 2012 - 11:23 AM' timestamp='1356197028' post='237369'] I don't know the formula you are talking about but I use a 2-1-1 mixture of bees wax, linseed oil and turpentine. It works well. Although I have read that the bees wax has some acidity to it? I would be interested in a better recipe if there is one. I use about the same on all my wood and warm iron work. with a 1-1-1 ratio, but I use synthetic turpatine and add a table spoon of Japan dryer per pint.
  8. I lost my info on making Renaissance type wax when my computer expired. The original formula was posted online about 12-15 years ago. Does anyone have the info, and sources for the poly-crystalline wax? Searobin
  9. Morgan, It might also be 4140 or 4340. The face was most likely hardened by the torch cut. After grinding the face flat with a 36 grit cup wheel on a large side grinder, finish with a 120 grit flap wheel. flatten at least 2 opposing edges if it is too much trouble to square all sides. Take your time so you don't overheat the face and soften it. A square anvil face is much more usable than a round one. Keep the edge radius to a minimum, you might eventually want to forge "T" back blades. Finally get a piece of pipe with a diameter just slightly larger than the shafting weld it perpendicular to a steel base plate. Fill it with sand to your desired anvil height and top the sand with a loose fit wooden disk. You will have an excellent post anvil. Chuck
  10. John. I think the stock Jim is looking for, is what is left from the sample runs of the main conductor of the Super Collider project that was started in Texas years ago. The project was scrapped due to budget cuts. Gary worked for the company that made the conductor samples and was able to buy them as scrap, years later. I suspect that the cost of having one of these companies duplicate the material Gary sells might induce cardiac arrest.
  11. Jim contact Gary Runyon 256-722-2231 He is the only source for this stock, and the supply is limited. Chuck
  12. Dry with the scale brushed off. I'm probably trying to reduce the billet dimension too fast, but I also think if both rollers were powered It would work better. My shop is in South Mississippi,When the anbient temperature is above 100 F and when I light off my forge, the temp reaches about 120 F, so I'd like to speed up the process.
  13. I just gave myself a dope slap. A larger diameter roller will decrease pressure and increase heat loss. But I do still have a roller slippage problem when working red hard billets, the reasoning behind the idea of driving both rollers. The speed controll would mainly be for insuring synchronizing roller speed. I think the mods Dennis did to the bearing alignment are great. The machine I'm using has the same problem. I really like your machine. The lines of the machine are so much cleaner with out all the belts and pulleys. One thing you might want to do is add a ring around your acme thread adjusting fingers. I find the ring makes adjusting height easier.
  14. I'm new to this thread, and I have Just several days using a mill that a friend lent me. To my untrained eye, it looks like the design would be improved by increasing the size of the rollers and driving both rollers. I'm sure this would complicate the design but the results might be worth the trouble. Especially when working red hard billets. I was also thinking of using hydraulic motors to power the rollers, using my Hydraulic press power pack and flow controlles to give precise speed controll when timiing the rollers. Please critique my ideas,. SeaRobin
  15. If you want the DVD send $25, including shipping in the U S, to: Chuck Robinson 1423 Third Ave. Picayune, Ms 39466
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