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Dave Armour

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Dave Armour last won the day on January 16

Dave Armour had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Thayer, IL
  • Interests
    I'm the owner/ lead teacher of a home daycare. Combine that with having 3 children of my own, and it makes for a full day. Aside from that and reading, my interests are music and playing on the computer.

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  1. Newest one off the bench. Small (4 3/4” blade) fighter. Stainless San Mai (304/W2) blade, Damascus guard, & stabilized buckeye burl handle. San Mai has become my favorite technique. Stainless is a new attempt one for me, but won’t be the last. Thanks for looking.
  2. Thanks Alan for explaining it a heck of a lot better than I could have.
  3. I drew out the point and tang somewhat. More to make sure the billet is solid rather than forging to any particular shape. I didn’t do any forging on the bevels.
  4. billyO-tig would work better, but I just have a cheap wire welder. One of the videos talked about problems with the welds because of the copper. So I would make sure the copper is slightly narrower than the steel not sticking out of the edges.
  5. There’s a couple YouTube videos (they call it CuMai)that explain it well. Basically the top workable fusing temp of copper is right at the bottom temp for bonding nickel. Pretty straightforward but tricky to control the temp. I went to welding the seems closed like you would with stainless San Mai. That way you don’t have molten copper flying if you overshoot the heat. Yep- there is one spot where there is nickel on the edge. I’m keeping this one for me, so I’ll live with it till it annoys me to the point I regrind to fix it.
  6. Latest one of the bench. 5” recurve skinner. Blade is Go Mai mild steel outside/W2 core/nickel & copper in between. Wrought iron guard with stabilized claro walnut. As I play with adding nickel and/or copper to the mix I’m coming to realize I like one or the other. If I mix both it just looks “off”. Thanks for looking.
  7. Latest one I wrapped up. One of my finds when i remodeled my shop was a 3’ bar of 3/4” 52100. This is a 4” utility out of that bar. Guard is low layer Damascus and the handle is stabilized banksia pod with black & silver pearl resins. Thanks for looking.
  8. My favorite of the year 9” 80crv2 with stainless bolsters. Handle is translucent resin with shredded us currency in it.
  9. Wrapping up a last minute Christmas gift for my wife. 7” blade length. 200 layer ladder pattern 1095/15n20 with nickel silver hardware & some stabilized coral she picked out for me at a show years ago I never found a project for. Just waiting on the sheath to dry before wrapping up. First attempt at stamping leather on the sheath. It was semi successful, but I still hate leather work. Thanks for looking.
  10. It was never really touchy tracking wise, but it definitely is less sensitive than it was. I’ll recheck things. Thanks
  11. Thanks. Here’s a pic of the other side. For some reason the pic keeps loading upside down. Not sure how to fix that.
  12. Built a 2x72 grinder a couple years ago. I just noticed that the contact wheels are wearing unevenly. The top wheel (3” diameter) is the worst. It is basically square for the first inch. Then it has worn down just over 1/8”. The bottom wheel (8”) is about half of that. The wear is on side closer to the frame. Trying to figure out the cause. I will say due to work picking up I’ve ground more in the last 4 months than I did probably in the previous year+. Attaching a couple of pics.
  13. I can see that point. These were to a client’s specs. Thanks.
  14. Pair of utilities ready for sheath & sharpen. 4” blades, 9” overall. Blades are O1 and guards are stainless. Handles are stabilized Illinois Walnut Crotch. Thanks for looking.
  15. Small tomahawk I’m wrapping up. Just needs a few more coats of tru oil. Mild steel & 80crv2. Curly maple handle. 2” edge & 13 1/2” overall. Need to make some kind of edge protector or belt sheath for it but am drawing a blank. Any suggestions? Thanks for looking.
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